Had a bad last week. Stomach virus of some type. Missed three days work. I was up to going to Ruckus X last weekend.
I was able to do a few things to the car after work today. Added a V6 heater pipe assembly to the car. I can fill the coolant system now. I found that I could remove the rubber part of the hose from the pipe, and turn it 90 degrees,. It would then fit between the cradle mount ears, and the front end of the cradle on the passenger side. Used a new Dorman white nylon Quick Disconnect clip and plugged it right in. I tried to get one at the Chevy dealer. They just grinned . Dorman or nothing it looks like. Good to go now. I am planning on connecting the ECM and C203 plugs tomorrow, and see if it will crank over.
Got a lot finished this afternoon in the garage. ECM connectors plugged in, as were the C203s. Throttle cable, brake booster vacuum hose, two ground straps. Located my MAT sensor and added it to it's plug in at the air filter base. Added a new piece of 5/8" heater hose to the thermostat barb. New thermostat located in the garage.
Tomorrow I will install the negative battery cable and battery. We will give her a turn of the key tomorrow.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-05-2011).]
It started by accident. I reached in and turned the key to see if the Volt lamp came on, and to see if the tach moved while it was cranking. It fired off and ran a few seconds before I could turn it off. Wasn't loud at all. I unplugged the coil and cranked it over until I saw good oil pressure on the gauge. It was over 40 lbs of pressure cranking. I am gonna fill the coolant and transmission fluid tomorrow and add the dog bone into the mix.
I have my friend bringing his timing light over tomorrow and I can set the timing. Maybe first ride tomorrow. We'll see. -Joe
Great! If you run it could you post some pictures?
After I fill the coolant, transmission fluid and set the timing, if all is well I will post a video. Might not be able to get to work on it after work tomorrow, the wife has plans for me tomorrow afternoon already. Saturday morning is mine though!!!!!!!!!!
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-06-2011).]
I was able to fill the coolant system, and add 4 quarts of transmission fluid. This got it up to full. I set the timing and took it for a one mile ride. The roads in here where I live are to bumpy to get it up to speed to see if the TCC will engage. I have felt all three shifts, as it is supposed to do. I have something going on with the temperature gauge. No movement I will run a few tests on it to see what is up there. My idle is right at 1700 RPM, Vacuum leak somewhere I am sure.
I am gonna replace the tail lights so I can get it out on the street off of the property here and check for TCC engagement about dusk. I need to renew my vehicle inspection and registration one day next week. I didn't want to pay for a new registration until I could drive it
3.4 is pretty peppy with the 3.33 final drive. I had a nice grin on my face aftert I got it off the stop sign pretty hard.
Spent the past 2 hours reading how to locate vacuum leaks and trouble shoot a IACs. I will test these later this evening before I take the car out past dusk to check out the TCC.
I did notice that when I retared the timing the idle dropped down 500 RPM. I was retarding it with the aid of a timing light. I was around 4 degrees to high. I had purchasaed a used Rodney Dickman V6 belt idler kit in the mall. It cam in todays mail. I will install it one day this week.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-08-2011).]
Just got back from a dusk lite drive about of 6 miles. I placed the transmission in 1st and ran it up to about 4700 RPM, then let off of the throttle until it was back to idle speed. Doing this is supposed to expand the rings up against the cylinder walls so they will seat properly. 20 times as Hastings instructions .
Next I got up on a good smooth road and got it up to around 47 MPH. Once there it locked the converter. It seems that all is well in the transmission department. I need to add 1 pint of transmission fluid.
I switched the two green wires in their sockets on the temperature gauge sending unit connector. My Temp gauge now comes up 1/8". No lighting up of the 'TEMP' bulb. Engine coolant was pretty well at 203* by my scanner while driving.
I have the right turn signal working, no left. I have the 'AJAR' light working, but no other dash light are coming on.
All speedo pod illumination bulbs are working correctly. Pretty red tint in the speedo pod. The auxiliary gauge pod is all good to go.
The 3.4 is real peppy and sounds good on the good smooth road I was on. The exhaust note is not to loud as to be annoying. I am pretty happy as a whole, but want to get it all squared away so I can get my safety inspection one day next week.
Editted to add no smoking or fuel smell outside the car with the engine running, or at start up.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-09-2011).]
I went out to the car to get some work done this morning at 9am. After removing the distributor cap and rotor I could see that the idle air tube was not seated into the back face of the throttle body. The larger of the two black tubes is supposed to be in the 1/2" hole. I removed the throttle body and added a new 'O' ring into the groove:
After reconnecting it all up, my idle has dropped down to about 1300 RPM in Park. When I put my thumb on the air idle port of the throttle body the engine is just barely running now. SO I still have a small leak I will do some more testing later tonight.
Went back out and removed the throttle body, cap and rotor. I put the piece of soda can underneath the EGR pipe where it connects to the upper intake. All is well in the idle department now. I was able to set the timing at idle instead of at 1700 RPM. I will remove the pipe one day this week and try to find where the leak is. Might just be the gasket, as I had modded a gasket to bolt it all up. It was all we could find at the parts house back then. I have tried Ebay for a Camaro/Firebird one with no luck. I don't really want to pay $100.00 for a new EGR pipe with The Fiero Store.
I dropped my 10mm wrench while working. I looked under the car to find it and saw I have a small oil stain right underneath the area of the oil filter/ oil pressure pipe. I will be under the one day real soon as I want to add the Rodney Dickman alternator belt idler kit
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-10-2011).]
I replaced my EGR tube with the flexible braided steel version. No problems since then. You could just block it off till you find a replacment.
I ordered 4 EGR gaskets from The Fiero Store today. When they get here I will make a block off plate and mount it up. I want to drive the car around 500 miles before I start removing the body panels again for painting. I have MstangsBware trying to locate me one in his parts.
And you were right. The 3.4 is a blast to drive. -Joe
I made me an EGR tube block off plate and a gasket for the upper intake. Put it all on the car. Fired up the first turn of the key, idling sweet around 900 RPM. I can at least drive it now, or move it around the garage with out pushing it everywhere. I will shunt the two sensor wires on the EGR solenoid. so the ECM stays happy.
I was able to try to see what is going on with my Temp gauge. Looks like the sending unit is toast. Gauge works fine by shorting the wire to ground at the back of the car. Using my test light it will go up and down while I move the tip against the engine ground and move it back and forth.
Local parts house has on, I didn't get the brand, for $43.00. I called O'Rilleys and they will have BWD WT414 there tomorrow for $20.00. GO figure.
I can wait a day for $20.00!!
I haven't been able to figure out why the 'Temp' lite will not work. If I offer a ground to the bulb, the light comes on. Grounding the wire at the back , key on, does nothing. It should light up. I really do not want to pull that Speedo Pod again. It is hard on those plastic circuit boards to take those connectors out of their sockets
My neighbor brought my EGR tube back just a while ago. He was able to braze a circle around the tube where the crack was. We put it in a pail of water and used compressed air to check it for leaks. About 12lbs of pressure was all I could hold back with my finger on the bottom end, and operate the nozzle on the top. No leaks. I will try it out when my tube gaskets get here from The Fiero Sore.
I have been following your thread for some time now. I just had my 3.4pr swap completed about 500 miles ago. It's a nice improvement over the 2.8 but was expecting a little more umph..... It is quicker, smoother and I hope more reliable but I'm already looking for something to add a few more horses. Ive been waiting to hear your opinion when you complete.
I have only driven my car about 10 miles. My inspection and registration are out. I am going to renew the tags tomorrow, and maybe get my inspection Monday. So until I am street legal I am a bit leary about giving it a good shake down. I was pretty pleased with the throttle response I had with my limited distance traveled.
I now have the timing set, and vacuum leaks repaired. So my 3.4 should be a bit 'happier'. My automatic transmission is a 1986 with the 3.33 final drive ratio. I am sure it has something to do with my GRIN.
I will post more information regarding my thoughts with the 3.4 at around the 500 mile mark when the engine is broken in and I am able to hit 'it' a bit harder than now. -Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-13-2011).]
I got some paint off of the FedEx truck after work today. Went to town and purchased the new temperature gauge sending unit I ordered yesterday. Got my saw horses ready for some body work I want to get done tomorrow. I want to get the upper rear roof section, both quarter panels, and the deck lid ready to top coat this weekend.
This was a pisser of a day. My air compressor doesn't want to stay running. I have had it since 1999. Aren't they supposed to last 50 years? I wonder if Wal-Mart will still give me my money back.
Removed all the deck lid lock hardware and the rubber piece off of the rear window area. Used a a razor blade to take the decals off of the inside of the deck lid.
I was able to hand sand the deck lid with some 220 dry paper. I will get me some 200 Wet or Dry tomorrow so I can get this piece worked down for primer. Seems like w/d cuts a bit faster, and does not clog up the paper as bad, compared to using dry sand paper.
After supper I went back out to the garage and put the brazed EGR tube back on the car with the new gaskets. Replaced the little silver insulation covering with 7 hog rings . Turned the ignition key. All is well in the EGR world so far. Nice 900 RPM idle. I will take it on a short shakedown drive tomorrow to see how it is holding up after I install the Temperature Gauge sending unit.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-15-2011).]
I was able to get the air filter pieces back on the car this morning. I also replaced the temperature sending unit for the gauge. The gauge reads as the one in my 86 'Duke' powered car did. The first quarter 'TIC' is about 190*. Added the driver side quarter panel for the air intake. I set a code 32 while on my little ride. I had forgotten to add the vacuum hose back to the EGR valve. You can see the EGR nipple without the vacuum line attached in the first picture of the engine. I took it for a short 6 mile ride. Added the rear side marker lights back to the body. It will now pass inspection tomorrow after work. Deck lid sanding in progress:
3.4 in the engine bay:
Before I added the quarter panel:
As she sits now:
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-16-2011).]
I took the car to get the inspection after work today. Passed. They didn't check for Jack $hipp, anywhere or any thing. All they wanted was their inspection fee. It was an 'inspection' joke.
I had discovered that I wasn't jumping the correct two holes in the ALDL before I set the timing. I corrected it and get the timing on 10*. After a short drive I found I now have a gutless rag. NO pep at all. I was thinking that it was trying to take off in 3rd gear. I am gonna put the timing back where it was and go for another drive later this evening.
Good to hear the car is running good for you....Hope to see it at one of the future shows....
I get it dialed in, I wil be driving it up there. I had a plastic film taped to the roof where the sunroof used to go. The wind ate it today at about 60 MPH. Made a lot of noise flapping in my face. I need to finish teh front roof section I got from you last spring.
I was able to find my 2.8 harmonic balancer after work today. After cleaning it up, I have decided to put it on my 3.4 so I can try to get the base timing correct. I am leary of driving it to much with out being able to trust where the TDC mark is. I was reading where.
Originally posted by theogre:
Advance base timing then ECM just retard it back. Too much base timing them ECM in hosed but doesn't trip a error code... Because there Isn't one... DTC 42 usually means ignition module or wires between module and ECM is bad.
Base timing affects engine starting.
So maybe if I can just get it in the ball park for now. I am planing on raising the rear of the car tomorrow and start on removing the harmonic balancer. I also have an alternator idler kit from Rodney Dickman to install. I want to look for the oil drip too!.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-18-2011).]
I raised the car after work and remarked my harmonic balancer to 4.600 " before the 3.4 timing mark. I was able to set the base timing to 10 *. Went for a ride. As I was pulling off of the property, the idle jumped back up again like it was when the EGR tube was cracked. Took the car on a 30 mile run. It ran better than it ever has since I got it back on the road. Great power, and smooth as glass.
I jumped ALDL pins A and B. The engine started right up. Ain't supposed to unless the EGR tube is cracked .I am gonna remove the silver insulation covering on the EGR tube tomorrow after work and see if the tube is cracked again.