Took the car for a few drives and kept checking things over every once in a while and discovered that the lower shock mount on the passenger side had developed a bend to it. Every time I came back to the garage I had to adjust the spring on that side to keep it the same as the drivers side. Then I noticed the downward bend on the plate. Took the lower control arm off and hammered it back to shape and added a piece of angle steel underneath to keep it stiff and that solved the problem.
The car rides a bit smoother, no more thumping so the basic design is sound but it needs some fine tuning. The preload on the passenger side is a little over an inch while the drivers side is only 1/2". But the drivers side is heavier than the passenger side so that seems strange to me. And the bending on the passenger side has not occurred on the drivers side. I am going to brace it the same way just in case but there is also something else out of wack. I am going to drive it up on my ramps so I can crawl under and check the arm angles to make sure they are the same. My best guess is that the lower shock mounts are not quite the same side to side, causing the travel distance of the shocks to be differrent. One of the lower control arms will need to have it's mounting tabs cut off and moved i think. I am keeping a close eye on the upper bolt on mounts to make sure they dont bend and so far they look ok. So a bit more work to get it right, but not a big deal.
[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 11-02-2019).]
Everything is the same side to side except for the position of the upper arm shock mounts as I suspected. The passenger side is a little more inboard than the drivers side, and a bit closer to the mounting plate. Nothing major and because I want to continue to drive the car until the snow flies, I am going to fix it when I put the car away for the winter.
I was looking through this thread trying to find the weight of the car the last time I had it on the scales at the local landfill. I guess I didn't post it here but weighed at the 30th it was 2790 lbs. then I weighed it in 2017 at the landfill and it was down to 2746 lbs. Today I weighed it at the landfill and with the recent changes to the intercooler setup it now weighs 2682 lbs. So the weight is down by 108 lbs since I first got it weighed. All weights are with a full tank of gas and me not in the car. The intercooler changes lost 64lbs alone. The steering has noticebly less effort required now, but maybe my new steering wheel has a bigger diameter?
Originally posted by wftb: Today I weighed it at the landfill and with the recent changes to the intercooler setup it now weighs 2682 lbs. So the weight is down by 108 lbs since I first got it weighed. All weights are with a full tank of gas and me not in the car. The intercooler changes lost 64lbs alone. The steering has noticebly less effort required now, but maybe my new steering wheel has a bigger diameter?
Your weights are really getting down there. i wonder how your car compares to mine? My steering effort is greater now that i have put in the three core radiator and the battery under the headlight, but the light front feeling at 140 km/h is now GONE. Well worth it.
------------------ Astronomy says we will find a coded signal from outer space. Then we'll KNOW that life exists there, for coded signals aren't by chance.
Biology says there are coded genetic signals in every cell, but we KNOW that no intelligence created life.
I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!
If you live in a small town like we do usually the landfill operators don't mind weighing a car. I would be interested to see how my car compares to a stock 4cyl too. So called factory weights mean nothing because they are calculated without any fluids in the car.
I moved the lower spring mounts on the passenger side and it reduced the preload about 1/4" of thread on the shock. Side to side, everything looks very close so I am calling that job done. It snowed 5" here last night, but I am going to keep driving the car if the snow melts. This time of year snow does not stick around here till december normally.
Some time over the winter I am going to swap my 20g turbo for the 16g I used to have on the car. I just think it is a better fit for the engine. It spools up faster and even at high speed in 5th gear it pulled hard. I bought the 20g as a package with the turbo manifold from Hahn racecraft and I should have bought the 16g version. And Hahn no longer makes the 16g version. So I need to make an adapter plate to make the old turbo work on the Hahn manifold. I do not even know if it will fit with an adapter plate on it but if it doesn't I will continue with the 20g.The old turbo with it's triangular turbine inlet:
It was easy to mount this to a stock ecotec exhaust manifold, just drill and tap some holes and bolt it on. The drawback to doing that is I had to use an oil evac pump to get the oil from the turbo in to the sump. And I got rid of all the stock manifolds I used to have. As far as I am concerned the 20g hangs down too far to get good return oil flow but with the big return line it does not seem to back up and leak. The old turbo seems fine, no slop and hopefully it has not developed any leaks from sitting for about 5 years or so. The downpipe mount I made a long time ago should work fine. In the spirit of not spending money this project should just cost me my time.