quote Originally posted by lou_dias: For what engine? The crank pulley turns both the water pump and alternator slowly. If you don't upgrade to the 88 alternator you have to change the alternator pulley to speed that back up with a pre-88 alternator. I already have converted to the '88 alternator and don't have those issues since the '88 alternator is 105 or 110 amps and the older ones are like 95 or something like that. Having to spin up the older alternator more reduces the gains.

This was on my 1986 GT, stock 2.8. I had already converted to a CS alternator. That was just my 2 cents - although I have the 3500 now and smooth drivability and idle is more important than every bit of power.

quote Originally posted by dobey: You won't really see any improvement with unmodified stock manifolds/y-pipe. Crush-bent tubes also won't help, given the turbulence they induce as the gas passes through the bends.

In my case, my manifolds are hogged out... understandably that means little when you're looking at real performance from say a shorty header or some such. The Y-pipe is also ceramic coated and has the modification at the "Y" to smooth the flow. But yeah, the rest of the exhaust is NOT mandrel bent.

from recent time on this forum, I've found a 3.4 engine swap with some head, intake and exhaust work would be more worth the money over a simple turbo setup on a 2.8.

You probably seek better acceleration - not higher top speed.

The easiest bolt-on and most bang for your buck would be a mild nitrous installation. Pick any wet kit - there are several, and it's a competitive market. If you install a 50-shot rig and use it judiciously, it should produce a satisfying kick in the back and not affect longevity. However, be sure to include a rev detector so nitrous won't flow below 2000 or so rpm.

I've never done this for this engine or one of its derivatives, but see no reason it won't work well. I have used nitrous in three previous cars with excellent results.

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'88 GT "barn find" with 40,070 miles!

[This message has been edited by notaguru (edited 12-25-2013).]

I always thought the easiest choke points to eliminate on the stock 2.8L were the intake and porting the exhaust (headers and crossover pipe).

Trueleo intakes, headers and exhaust. Not sure if they are back in production. Looked like a cootie bug, but the numbers don't lie. My friend has them and stands by the product (intake, headers and exhaust on his 3.4L)

Dawg sells (or did sell) a modified stock intake that is bolt on: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/051596.html

You can port the headers yourself if you can weld the outside first. I had someone on here do them for around $100 with me sending in my headers.

Now you will get the people that chime in and say you can do a motor swap for under a $1,000... Do some math before you believe this...

Best wishes and Merry Christmas.

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-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel
My HUD install thread
Modified stock air canister and base to 3.5 inch for 3800na

Isn't it strange that after a bombing, everyone blames the bomber, his upbringing, his environment, his culture, his mental state but … after a shooting, the problem is the gun?

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 12-25-2013).]

Let me summarize a 2.8 with need of some maintenance:

Replace ignition coil with http://www.fierostore.com/P.../Detail.aspx?s=51065 if your coil is old and looks stock.
Remove your exhaust manfolds and cross-over https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...19-2-074601.html#p31
Get an underdrive pulley (good for 6 hp) http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=22&products_id=255
I recommend NKG UR4 spark plugs, try to index them (have open end face exhaust valve)
I used these rocker arms but also bought stud adapters to convert from 10mm to 3/8" :
http://www.summitracing.com...m-g6936-16/overview/

Also get a high torque mini-starter that the 3100/3400 engines use to save some weight, and perhaps an Odyssey battery. Losing weight = better power-to-weight ratio.