so, since the first 3500 i put in was aparently broken and i had to remove, ima start this swap all over again.... more pics / faster time line then the last :P
broken engines out..
and this is the reason it needed to be pulled (no idea how it happened)
[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 08-09-2011).]
so, since the first 3500 i put in was aparently broken and i had to remove, ima start this swap all over again.... more pics / faster time line then the last :P
broken engines out..
and this is the reason it needed to be pulled (no idea how it happened)
Uuuummmmmm.............................. Ok, I give. What am I supposed to be looking at for the reason it needed to be pulled?
Originally posted by n7vrz: Uuuummmmmm.............................. Ok, I give. What am I supposed to be looking at for the reason it needed to be pulled?
ran my fuel lines a bit cleaner then i had them (alot easier when theres no engine in the way)
(this can also be found in another thread i made, but as its part of this swap ima re-post it here)
no rubber in the system now cept at the actual tank. using an aeromotive a1000-6 regulator, fittings at the regularor are the standard ORB - AN, then i used AN to 3/8 compression on the feed side, AN to 5/16 on the return, and an AN to 90deg swivle baided hose connector on the outlet side.
for the feed i used the dorman repair end at the fuel filter(part # 800-153), bent it upto the firewall and make a 90, put a compression fitting there then ran a stick of line across the firewall then upto the regulator. the return i cut off the o.e. line right at the bracket near the filter, compression fitting, then ran it up, then across the firewall then up into the regulator.
Piston failure, that's very interesting because it's one of the two pistons most likely to suffer injury in the fwd motors, 5 & 6 which are also the only two pistons that receive an oil squirter in the 3500. Must have been loose clearance from the factory (last clearance cut before the blade was replaced) assembly.
If this happened after you received the engine it might have been detectable as a problem ares through a compression test if the skirt was collapsing.
when i got the engine i did compression and leakdown test on it, everything was good... but it was over a year before i got to doing the first start, so not sure what happened, no fuel smell in the oil, and nothing looked milky so i dont think any fluids got into the cyl, but i assume thats entirely possible.. new "used" motor just got here, not as low of mileage as the broken one (supposedly less then 10k on the broken one ) this one has 30k on it... on the plus side ill have 3500 parts to sell, exhaust mani's (2 rears as ill use 2 fronts on mine), intake mani's, timing cover, electronic TB, cyl heads (1 probably needing checked), steel crank (gota make sure this one has that, if not ima swap them over) also have a 00+ 3100 with largeport(aka same as 3400) heads to part out.. (minus intakes as they went missing)
What did the 3500 come out of? I have a 2006 Chevy Uplander with a 3500 and it pulls pretty good for a big vehicle. I imagine it would realy liven up a Fiero.
What did the 3500 come out of? I have a 2006 Chevy Uplander with a 3500 and it pulls pretty good for a big vehicle. I imagine it would realy liven up a Fiero.
this one happens to be out of a 04 malibu, but if the uplander doesnt have VVT then they are the same engine. (just might be different intakes)
heres a nice shot of it sitting int he truck ready for me to take home.
just changed out the smooth lower idler pulley to a larger grooved pulley so i can run w/o an ac compressor 89051 dayco part number, the larger pulley to go under the water pump to make sure it gets enough contact to turn the pump without slipping. ill post up the belt # when i put it on.
i colored in the pulley i changed red pulley = larger idler and the arrow points in the direction that the tensioner will be pulling to keep tension.
[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 08-09-2011).]
Good luck with the take 2 phase of your build..that really sucks you had to tear it back apart before you even got to drive the car..
thanks, and yea, u have no idea... i was soo looking forward to going for a spin soon, then....that happened
so, looks like the belts gona be a 5060615 or 5060610, the 3400 crank pulley that you need to use for the 24x wheel for obd2 is smaller then the stock 3500, and i couldnt find my puller to get it off
so belts on... but, i wasnt thinking when i routed the belt this way at all.... the 7x crank sensor sits on the left side of the crank pulley, right where the belt is... belt fits nicely, and if i didnt need that 7x would be perfect, so anyone who swaps the wheels on the crank can use this setup w/o AC. ima try using a 3400 tensioner, looks like the 3500 timing cover has the spots to mount it already, circled in red on pic below, with new routing of belt
if that doesnt work (or maybe instead of) ima see if i can just put a pulley in one of those 2 holes that used to hold a bracket and run it like...
[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 08-12-2011).]
Might as well just add AC Here is my routing if you need a reference
yea, thats stock routing.. im trying to do it w/o having to have the added weight of the ac compressor :/ if it cant be done by just swapping tensioners, or putting in a pulley ill have to goto the yard and pull a compressor
thats the stock 3500 tensioner put into the other location, using the smooth pulley from between the WP and crank on the tensioner, and the grooved tensioner pulley between them, last pulley near the alt has been removed, belt # dayco 5060620 fits perfect. i wish i knew of a grooved waterpump pulley, id rath just take the belt around the outside of the WP, then straight over the alt, but this works :P
TCE (WOT TECH) 7x sensor fits perfect now, thats the stock fiero engine mount bracket behind it, next pic thanks to 87_special
cleaned the engine up a bit, w/ gunk foaming engne cleaner, 2morrow morn ima swap most the stuff over (coils, harness, flywheel&clutch) and hopefully get it mounted to the trans, and ready to go back in sunday.
[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 08-12-2011).]
That's not a whole lot of contact on the WP pulley. I'm not sure how much grip it requires, I hope it works for you! Should know pretty quickly if it's going to work or not I guess .
You needed to cut the stock 2.8 engine mount to clear the oil pan? Mine bolted up with no modifications. The oil pans must be different for the Equinox.
You needed to cut the stock 2.8 engine mount to clear the oil pan? Mine bolted up with no modifications. The oil pans must be different for the Equinox.
yea, some of the 3400's will bolt right up, the stock 3500 mount that was on mine might have been able to use, cept then i couldnt have put the 7x trigger on, was a big bulky think, and the bolt holds were infront of the crank pully almost, woulda shifted everythng a good bit... ill snap a pic of it in the AM.
well, working between rainstorms today.... not happy bout that, put the spare "front" manifold i had on the rear of the engine, and put the knock sensor in, cant use the 3500 style knock's from what ive read due to difference of single and type, unscrew a small coolant plug and screw in the 3400 knock sensor (highlighted), i ordered an EGR delete plate from WOT tech, didnt feel like fussing with it myself at this point...
If you used a grooved pulley on the water pump it would turn backwards. I almost pulled my 2.8 pulley until I realized that. Glad to see it's coming together quickly for round 2.
That's what I did with my knock sensor too. Let me know if it reads funny with Cylinder 5. Mine is counting a miss fire, sometimes. I'm assuming it's just a little gunk in the fuel rail/ injectors from sitting open air for so long because TCE suggested that location for the knock sensor. (TCE who makes the external 7x trigger)
[This message has been edited by KaijuSenso (edited 08-13-2011).]
That's what I did with my knock sensor too. Let me know if it reads funny with Cylinder 5. Mine is counting a miss fire, sometimes. I'm assuming it's just a little gunk in the fuel rail/ injectors from sitting open air for so long because TCE suggested that location for the knock sensor. (TCE who makes the external 7x trigger)
#5 you say? *points to his reason for the take 2* id look into it alittle more if i were you... swap the injectors and plug w/ another cyl see if the knock moves... i got spare pistons and rods if ya need one
Ya thats step 5 for me, I just brought it up in your thread because I thought it might be related to the knock sensor screwing in close to Cylinder 5. I doubt it though.
So do you think yours will be installed by the end of the weekend? I can't wait to hear it actually run this time!
Ya thats step 5 for me, I just brought it up in your thread because I thought it might be related to the knock sensor screwing in close to Cylinder 5. I doubt it though.
So do you think yours will be installed by the end of the weekend? I can't wait to hear it actually run this time!
*looks at the weather map* well if all goes good, i HOPE to get it back in tomorrow....put the flywheel/cutch on, bolt it back to the cradle, swap the throttlebodys, and plug all the wiring back in, and check it, then should be good :P
sounds like you need a canopy to work under so you don't get wet bought mine at TSC it's a 10x20 and it was about $100
if i didnt have to lift the engine and worry about slipping with that, id be all for that... but i just dont trust wet ground and lifting the car/engine, not worth endangering people if something slips :P (altho im sure it would probably be safe...)
Ugh you can have my good weather, I have to go back to school and the clutch won't disengage meaning no Fiero for me So that means you have to get yours done for me.
things left before it goes in the car...wait for daylight... tighten down to the trans, motor mount nuts, change plugs, plug wires, prime oil pump, add oil, check over everything.. again lol....
Yes! Now it's just a matter of plug and play correct? You already did most of the hard work with the first engine.
yep, im hoping so, i gota fix a few of the things i uhm... well i cut some stuff to get the engine back out, so just gota fix that stuff... lol, not a big deal tho, then ima checkover the harness for a billionth time before hitting the key...
) this one has 30k on it... 
Here is my routing if you need a reference
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