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Car wont go into gear by painandgain99
Started on: 11-27-2015 10:49 PM
Replies: 215 (3480 views)
Last post by: andreww on 02-21-2017 04:32 PM
Gall757
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Report this Post02-27-2016 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Condensation inside the distributor cap will always provide an alternate route for the spark. Sometimes it takes days to dry out.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post03-01-2016 03:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
All i have been able to do is check codes and i cleaned all the distributor cap connections. The only code i have is either 31 or 32. My apologies, i have slight dyslexia and its hard to count the blinks. I took a video of the car trying to start , id appreciate it if anyone would take a look and see if it gives any more info that can be added. In the mean time ill try to do the tests you all listed.

Video is Here

Side note, link to thread on removing dash would be appreciated, i have to drill new speaker mounts and i need to take the dash out/lift it out half way

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Report this Post03-01-2016 07:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Look here.

From this thread (with edits).

 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:
Remove the speaker covers (gently pry up with a flat blade). Then remove the 2 screws in each speaker well for the dash. Remove the trim under the steering column (4 screws). Remove the bolt under the dash on each side. Remove the trim behind the instrument cover (3 screws). Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the back of the instrument cluster from each side. Unscrew the 4 screws from bezels on each side of the instrument cluster, and disconnect both plugs (or however many you have) on each side. Remove the instrument cluster. The options are exterior lights, dimmer, defrost, and trunk release). Pull the retaining clip out of the shift knob (auto). Remove the shift plate and surround (4 screws). Remove the HVAC housing bezel (4 screws). Remove the 4 screws holding the aux gauges. Unclip the electrical plug. Remove the aux gauges. Lower the steering wheel. Pull the dash out, gently.


I think that'll do it.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 03-01-2016).]

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painandgain99
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Report this Post03-04-2016 04:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Still no luck. I cleaned the spark plug wires where they connect. Today i replaced the spark plugs, didnt fix it but i noticed 2 things. First is what looks like a vacuum line broken second seems like a wire out of place.

Here outlined in red is where i think another vacuum tube i found attaches... and in my hand is the wire i found


Pic of the tube i believe connects in the photo about
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

And lasty here is a photo of where the wire comes from.This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.
Could either of these things be causing the car not to start? Replaced spark plugs didnt help
Not firing


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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 03-04-2016).]

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fierofool
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Report this Post03-04-2016 06:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You're correct in your assumption about the vacuum line. It's a source of filtered air for the EGR solenoid. The metal line on the bulkhead runs over to the air filter canister. It has no effect on your car starting.

The braided copper wire is a ground wire. The end you're holding normally has an eyelet on it. You'll probably find it attached to the bottom bolt on your decklid hinge. The end that's attached to the engine might be a little hard to get to, but if you can remove it, the braided straps are readily available at your auto parts stores. This also has no effect on whether the car will start.

I suggest that you look at your ignition coil. Not the ignition module, but the ignition coil. Have you tried starting fluid into the intake? If it doesn't try to run, it's spark. Have you tried pulling a plug wire, inserting an old plug and grounding it against the engine while someone tries to start it?
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painandgain99
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Report this Post03-05-2016 05:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Update. I have replaced spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. The car fired, but only for one second then died. Will not fire again. GIVEN the nature of the start, it sounded like it was lackimg fuel (like when its out of gas) but it obviously isnt out of gas, half a tank of premium. I have not checked anything eletrical yet(no voltmeter) or the fuel filter which i think ill do next (or the pump, worst case scenario i believe?) Any opinions on the updated info?

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tshark
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Report this Post03-05-2016 05:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You run premium in the stock engine?
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painandgain99
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Report this Post03-05-2016 10:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

You run premium in the stock engine?


Not usually. Its the first thing i did when it wouldnt stary i thought it could have been reading wrong and been out of gas. Sometimes ill put some premium in. I have only filled up the tank once with 97 octane and it was when i changed the oil

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Report this Post03-05-2016 10:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JenkemSend a Private Message to JenkemEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Perhaps buying Fiero that actually runs would be your best next move since this one is a rolling hunk of bullshit. Six pages of bullshit is stupid. Sell it and buy from someone who actually cares about their Fiero.

[This message has been edited by Jenkem (edited 03-05-2016).]

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painandgain99
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Report this Post03-06-2016 03:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jenkem:

Perhaps buying Fiero that actually runs would be your best next move since this one is a rolling hunk of bullshit. Six pages of bullshit is stupid. Sell it and buy from someone who actually cares about their Fiero.


Thats cute. I remember when i used to be a troll. And was 12. These hunks o' bullshit are the reason for this website sonnnn. Go on, get.
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Report this Post03-06-2016 08:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JenkemSend a Private Message to JenkemEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just mean don't empty your bank account into this car
If it is cheaper to find a good running one in the end.
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Report this Post03-06-2016 07:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Update. New fuel filter. No luck, gas was coming out of the new filter with one end unscrewed and someone trying to start the car. Pulled a plug and tried to touch it on something while someone was starting the car, no spark. Checks resistance of the ignition coil top plug, 1.7ohms. Top plug to the spark plug wire cap part, no ohm reading. Does this now mean its the ignition coil?

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Gall757
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Report this Post03-06-2016 08:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pain, your thread is a long and winding road, and maybe you have done this already......but doing it again may help.

Crank the starter and watch the tach needle. if it goes up to about 300 as the car is cranking, you have a functioning primary ignition. Spray some starting fluid while cranking and see if it will run briefly. If it does, you have a fuel delivery problem.

If the tach does not move, you need to fix the primary ignition.... let us know which it is.
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Gall757
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Report this Post03-08-2016 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I see you decided to start another thread.....

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/096488.html
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FTrader
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Report this Post02-16-2017 11:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FTraderClick Here to Email FTraderSend a Private Message to FTraderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:


Try pushing the clutch pedal to the floor, shifting into first then shifting into reverse to avoid the grinding.


It was a bittersweet experience reading this entire thread. But this golden nugget of advice made it oh so worth it! Thanks David Hambleton! No more grinding into reverse for me.

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andreww
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Report this Post02-21-2017 04:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for andrewwSend a Private Message to andrewwEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FTrader:


It was a bittersweet experience reading this entire thread. But this golden nugget of advice made it oh so worth it! Thanks David Hambleton! No more grinding into reverse for me.



Been using that little trick for decades. Sometimes at a light, it can be hard to get in to first as well. Putting it in second, then first solves that problem as well. One of the quirks of the Fiero.
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