replaced the slave with rodneys today and picked up a quart of dot5 , 25$. ridiculous. But i also did pay 75$ for the slave so, might aswell stick to the better quality. car is shifting great. little iffy going into first and grinds for reverse 2 out of 5 times id say, but i think this is normal. The fluid level is not going down either. so i think i resolved the issues. thank you so much everyone. next on my list to replace are the belt, oil pressure sending unit, MAP and o2 sensor. belt and oil sending unit i probably can replace next paycheck.
again, thank you everyone for all the help and thanks rodney for the great slave. will be sticking with you for future products.
also, upon removing the old slave, as soon as i removed the rubber boot, the whole unit was filled with fluid. the seal was done for, this is why everytime i pushed the clutch, all of that fluid leaked out.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 01-04-2016).]
Im back friends 😂😂 So my belt squeel (im assuming thats what it is) is getting more and more obnoxious. Usually upon start up or taking off. Higher the rpms, louder and more high pitched it is. There is some technique to pushing in the clutch to make the rpms drop and getting it to stop but it doesnt always work. People are no longer believing me that its just a supercharger xD. So if this is fixable, i was wondering if anyone can provide me with some information on what type of belt this is and how to replace it. Also, I noticed turning on the heat full blast made it start squeeling on one or two occasions. But i dont think the heat being on dictates the squeel. Hope youre all having a wonderful year so far, id appreciate any input.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
The common squeal upon startup is the belt slipping. It can be caused by a glazed belt or loose adjustment. There's a big draw on the battery when you start and that load stays on the alternator until voltage builds up in the battery. Putting the blower on High has a lot of amp draw on the electric system and can cause the squeal to return.
Look for the glazed or cracked belt, a broken adjustment slot on the alternator bracket due to over-tightening, and in the case of one of my cars, I found that the thru-bolt had backed out of the alternator. Had it not backed into a part of the engine and stopped, my alternator might have fallen off. If the adjustment slot is cracked, Rodney makes a repair piece. The thru-bolt which the alternator pivots on, can be tightened from the bottom, I believe, but you'll have to loosen the adjustment bolt to do it.
This "squeel" was discussed several times in This thread.
You then felt the need to bring it up in another thread, and I responded Here.
And now you're asking about it again.
What is the problem you're having with all the advice you've already been given?
I work alot, i do not know how to view a previous thread of mine without scrolling through the pages. Which i physically dont have the time to do. I dont have time to visit this site very often vs you being one of the main people posting here. And sorry i have the memory of a 70 year old, you obviously dont. With all do respect patrick i have alot of things ging on at the moment, and there is no harm in me asking again to anyone. There are only so many members here, people who appreciate this website wouldappreciate my activity and the topic being discussed in several threads. You dont have to devote any time in responding you my threads.
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
The common squeal upon startup is the belt slipping. It can be caused by a glazed belt or loose adjustment. There's a big draw on the battery when you start and that load stays on the alternator until voltage builds up in the battery. Putting the blower on High has a lot of amp draw on the electric system and can cause the squeal to return.
Look for the glazed or cracked belt, a broken adjustment slot on the alternator bracket due to over-tightening, and in the case of one of my cars, I found that the thru-bolt had backed out of the alternator. Had it not backed into a part of the engine and stopped, my alternator might have fallen off. If the adjustment slot is cracked, Rodney makes a repair piece. The thru-bolt which the alternator pivots on, can be tightened from the bottom, I believe, but you'll have to loosen the adjustment bolt to do it.
Thank you very much, someone someday will find this very useful when searching through threads. Like me. Ill check tomorrow and probably replace the belt.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 01-18-2016).]
Originally posted by Patrick:I'm sorry, but your attitude appears to be that your time is more important than anybody
else's. An entitlement attitude. I don't care for
it. .
Its the other way around, Patrick. We are talking about posts of mine MONTHS apart here. I do my best to respect everyone elses time. I am in no rush. I am asking politely for peoples opinions. In whatever amount of time they want to take to give them to me. As i have other things to do and im sure they do to. But you obviously dont. Ill give you a break pat, you dont have to a spend any of your time on me anymore. Your opinion is no longer needed
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 01-18-2016).]
Yes i tried it thank you, it worked but heres why i think it did, reverse only grinds of i try to put it into gear immediately after pushing the clutch. I dont know how the mechanics of a transmission work, but i assume something is still spinning for a moment after i depress the clutch and since reverse has no synchro, it grinds. Flywheel maybe. But if i wait a moment with the clutchi in, it wont grind. Thank you very much for the tip, it helped me discover this
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
Correct! Reverse has no synchronizer. The gear keeps spinning until inertia ends. Even with a perfectly working transmission, you may get a grind in reverse if you try to engage reverse immediately after disengaging the clutch. Sometimes even putting it into 5th gear will help the process.
Yes i tried it thank you, it worked but heres why i think it did, reverse only grinds of i try to put it into gear immediately after pushing the clutch. I dont know how the mechanics of a transmission work, but i assume something is still spinning for a moment after i depress the clutch and since reverse has no synchro, it grinds. Flywheel maybe. But if i wait a moment with the clutchi in, it wont grind. Thank you very much for the tip, it helped me discover this
You're very welcome. I've been doing that for years; 1st gear before reverse on the 4 speed, and 5th gear before reverse on the 5 speeds. I've never bothered to time how long it takes for the internals to stop spinning; who wants to wait anyhow?
2nd item: So there's an example of how PFF works so well. You didn't actually pose a question, but you mentioned the gear grinding so I offered a solution that's worked for me for 32 years (and for many others I presume...) People will offer ideas for you to consider, all they want in return is to know if it helped you.
You can probably guess where I'm going with this, lol! Patrick and others offered info for your consideration. You repeated the questions without saying if you'd tried the suggestions. You'll find over time, that if you reply that you tried the suggestions or explain why not, you'll continue to receive suggestions. If you repeat the questions without any feedback as to why, people won't bother to offer help. Approach it like you're trying to make friends; you'll be swamped with helpful info.
You're very welcome. I've been doing that for years; 1st gear before reverse on the 4 speed, and 5th gear before reverse on the 5 speeds. I've never bothered to time how long it takes for the internals to stop spinning; who wants to wait anyhow?
2nd item: So there's an example of how PFF works so well. You didn't actually pose a question, but you mentioned the gear grinding so I offered a solution that's worked for me for 32 years (and for many others I presume...) People will offer ideas for you to consider, all they want in return is to know if it helped you.
You can probably guess where I'm going with this, lol! Patrick and others offered info for your consideration. You repeated the questions without saying if you'd tried the suggestions. You'll find over time, that if you reply that you tried the suggestions or explain why not, you'll continue to receive suggestions. If you repeat the questions without any feedback as to why, people won't bother to offer help. Approach it like you're trying to make friends; you'll be swamped with helpful info.
Thank you. I appreciate it. I dont want to offend anyone. Any information or tips im given, i have tried. If i ask again then i obviously had no success. I should have stated that.
Im starting to lose clutch pressure again. Last night i had to pull over and pumpthe clutch cause i had no pedal. Which hasnt happened since the incidents in the beginning of this thread. My fluid hasnt gone down at all, so im not sure if its air, or the master. Or the line... im replacing the master with my next paycheck. Also feels like i have less clutch than usual all the time since last night. Dont mean to steer off topic of the squeel but this just came up... as far as the squeel goes, i will get a new belt possibly tomorrow or Saturday and put it on to see if that corrects the problem.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
Originally posted by painandgain99: Dont mean to steer off topic of the squeel but this just came up... as far as the squeel goes, i will get a new belt possibly tomorrow or Saturday and put it on to see if that corrects the problem.
Ok, good luck! Don't forget Patrick's suggestions to check all the pulleys for easy spinning and make sure the tensioner is working properly.
After bleeding the clutch line again, slide a piece of the plastic wire loom cover down over the fluid line to help insulate it from the coolant and exhaust heat. You may save yourself the time and money of replacing a master cylinder.
Quick question. I have been trying desperately to get the o2 sensor off. Bent the special socket trying already. Cannot get it so im having our mechanic do it. He will probably hit it with a torch. But my question is this. The new o2 sensor has alot shorter wire... 4 inches long or so. The old one has got to be a foot long, its supposed to plug in alot higher up. Should i tell tbe mechanic to use the old wire to extend it or is there a certain type of wire i can buy to give to him? Or would he know what to do most likely?. Because now the o2 sensor wire that is currently on got cut near the sensor from trying to get it off. (I tried removing the slave for better leverage, tried from underneath. Hit it with liquid wrench generously several times, so i dont think its my technique causing it to not come off)
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
I would take the sensor back and get the right one
Agreed. Sounds like you have the "universal" one-wire sensor which requires splicing.
Get the AC Delco sensor for your year car and the wire will be the correct length and have the correct plug on the end of it (going out on a limb here, I'd bet the same AC Delco sensor fits dozens of different GM models from the 80s).
So i fixed the o2 sensor and without a moment to spare, new problems have arisen!. Clutch and perhaps a vacuum leak. The clutch problems started a few days ago, i had about an inch of clutch pedal when taking off. Acceleration makes the pedal come back up, other gears shift fine and have a full pedal. I ordered a master from rodney in hopes that this is the problem and not the disc. I will update that once i receive and install the new master. Possiblw vacuum leak: this morning when i left my home I noticed a whistling sound seeming to come from the rear right of the car. It definitely sounds like air is causing the whistle, the pitch gets higher with acceleration. So i assume its a vacuum leak, just wondering if this particular symptom comes from a common problem or if itll be deeply diagnosed if anyone has any input? I dont think its the belts as i just had them replaced. I would try to tighten them but my mechanic said my car has no tensioner system. Anyways. Any input friends? Also hope to see some of you at the upcoming NIFE event, I will probably be going.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
Ran into some issues...a few days ago, it got really cold over night here and i woke up, the car wouldnt start. Charged the battery a bit, jumped it. And went on my waym later that night, it died at a red light, and wouldnt start back up. Hazards wouldnt even go on. So i jumped it once again and parked it, bought a new battery. Voltage was at 14, then the belt squeeled for about 10 seconds and pushed the volts all the way past the red line. After driving a bit, theyre steady at about 13 now. But are usually below... if it gets much lower, the car wont start. I try to keep the heat off and such. I plan on replacing the alternator asap, unless anyone thinks its something else. The "whistling" sound from before turned into a whining sound like a supercharger sound almost but a bit less loud, its coming from around the alternator. I assume thats the issue. Any ideas friends? Very upset i probably wont be abke to make it to the upcoming NIFE event now. I was so excited to go to it in my car
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
Harber Freight sells a stethoscope with a rod on the end of it. You can place that end on the alternator. If the noise is coming from the alternator, you'll know it. But it sounds like you do have a alternator problem
From what ive read, replacing the alternator is fairly easy. Couple of bolts, electrical connection and viola is comes out. My mechanic would charge 70$ to remove and replace if i provide a new alt. Would anyone be able to tell me if they think id be capable of replacing it myself? I dont have a job at the moment and my car is running very poorly, after investing into a new battery its still running bad. I have to keep the idle high at stop lights or else the volts go down and the car will die. So if its easier enough for me to replace myself, that cuts the time about in half that itd take me to be able to afford to fix it.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
Got the new alternator in. Was pretty easy. My voltage is pretty stable around 14. But whem it squeels, it drops down to about 12. I wanted to see if anyone had a good method for tightening the belt without over tightening. Different methods.
Car has been running absolutely amazing since i replaced the alt. Sounds better, seems even faster.
Also, my idle has been stable mostly since i replaced the iac valve but still fluctuates between 1000-1300 and the volts go up and down as it fluctuates.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
Back in the mid 90's, my 85 and 86 Fieros both had problems with the alternator belt slipping. I never really solved it permanently. I just started to tighten the belt every couple weeks whether it was slipping or not. I suppose I'd say to err on the side of over tightening if you don't want to have to do it regularly.
Dodgerunner on this forum sells a belt tensioner. Rodney sells an idle pulley.
Be aware that overtightening is just as bad as undertightening. The alternator bracket breaks, and extra pressure on other shafts is bad. I haven't seen bearings on the engine shaft fail, but it's possible.
So leaving my house today, the car died out going 40mph. Has gas, has amps. Car is attempting to start like normally, the engines turning over even i believe. Just will not start or stay running unless the keys turned and the starter going. Any ideas guys? I really have no clue where to even start on this one.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
With engine stuff I always check three main things: air, fuel and spark.
Air is easy since unless a tennis ball is stuck in the throttle body, the engine usually can get air. For Spark you can stick a timing light on a spark plug and see if it flashes. That leaves fuel which can be a bit trickier. Check for fuel pressure if you have the right equipment. Failing that, listen to see if the pump is running when you turn on the key. Fuel filters are cheap, and it doesn't hurt to change that just to make sure it isn't the issue.
With engine stuff I always check three main things: air, fuel and spark.
Air is easy since unless a tennis ball is stuck in the throttle body, the engine usually can get air. For Spark you can stick a timing light on a spark plug and see if it flashes. That leaves fuel which can be a bit trickier. Check for fuel pressure if you have the right equipment. Failing that, listen to see if the pump is running when you turn on the key. Fuel filters are cheap, and it doesn't hurt to change that just to make sure it isn't the issue.
Just some things to check.
The fuel pump is turning on. I will check those things, thank you.
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
Forget compression? All 4 things, plus exhaust are required in the right timing, or you have a dead engine.
Fuel is easy. If the plugs are wet, or the car smells like fuel, it's getting fuel. Pressure is important.
The car doesn't ”run” on the starter. It's either firing (combustion), or it isn't, starter or no. You said something about ”turning over”. If it cranks, it's turning over. If it doesn't crank, you have bigger problems.
Yea, compression is important, but I find most engines will at least run, albeit badly, with crappy compression so it is rarely one of the first things I check. Not everyone has a compression tester laying around either. Anyway - I was just trying to hit the easy stuff first!
I'd pull the air intake tube, shoot a burst of starter fluid or carb cleaner into the throttle body and try to start it. If it fires off, you have confirmed spark, but no fuel. If it doesn't fire off, then look at the ignition control module in the distributor and the ignition coil. Test those by pulling a plug wire, insert a spare plug and hold the base against a good bare metal part of the engine while someone tries to crank it. If no spark, then proceed to the module then the coil.
I will check all those things, thank you guys. I should add, we had a temperature fluctuation recently that caused alot of condensation. There was condensation all over my engine. And days later now theres a thin layer of rust on everything... idk if that couldnt contributed to this situation. Maybe condensation in the fuel line?
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos
