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Car wont go into gear by painandgain99
Started on: 11-27-2015 10:49 PM
Replies: 215 (3496 views)
Last post by: andreww on 02-21-2017 04:32 PM
fierofool
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Report this Post12-10-2015 04:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The EGR system only turns on the SES light under certain conditions while driving at road speeds and the car is at operating temp. It will come on and go out. It's considered a 'Soft Code' meaning that it's not imminently doing harm to the engine. It doesn't need to be immediately addressed to maintain drivability of the vehicle. The code will remain in the ECM until you disconnect power to the ECM. The easiest way to do this is to disconnect the round barrel connector near the battery, coming off the power distribution block. Leave it disconnected for about a minute. The car won't run very well on initial startup and must be driven again in order for it to learn sensor input parameters. Of course, the EGR system may set another Code 32 while it's doing this. But again, this can wait until other things are addressed. It's not urgent.

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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-10-2015 11:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

The EGR system only turns on the SES light under certain conditions while driving at road speeds and the car is at operating temp. It will come on and go out. It's considered a 'Soft Code' meaning that it's not imminently doing harm to the engine. It doesn't need to be immediately addressed to maintain drivability of the vehicle. The code will remain in the ECM until you disconnect power to the ECM. The easiest way to do this is to disconnect the round barrel connector near the battery, coming off the power distribution block. Leave it disconnected for about a minute. The car won't run very well on initial startup and must be driven again in order for it to learn sensor input parameters. Of course, the EGR system may set another Code 32 while it's doing this. But again, this can wait until other things are addressed. It's not urgent.



So what should i do? Reset it and just leave it? Im not sure what actions i should take. And also about the code 33?

Also dont mean to go off topic but there has been a loud squeel happening more often, on and off. When tsking off. Not sure if its the belt and if it requires immediate attention
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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 12-11-2015).]

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Report this Post12-11-2015 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Keep up the good work. Glad to see you are still engaged in fixing all the issues the car has thrown at you. If you need an extra hand at any time I'd be happy to swing by as mentioned before. Also, remember I do have a lot of spare parts from an almost identical 87 GT you can borrow/have, including and oil pressure solenoid (I believe), if you haven't replaced it yet.

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Report this Post12-11-2015 12:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Also dont mean to go off topic but there has been a loud squeel happening more often, on and off. When tsking off.


Tell the young lady to contain herself.
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fierofool
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Report this Post12-11-2015 12:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dont' worry about the code 32 for the time being. Code 33 is the MAP sensor. Either or both could be the result of a crack in their respective vacuum lines. The MAP vacuum line goes to the fuel pressure regulator. If you have one of the MityVac hand pumps, you can pull a few inches of vacuum on your lines to see if they hold without leaking down. If they do, then look at the controller for that line. The EGR valve can be tested for a diaphragm leak by disconnecting the line at the valve, pushing up on the diaphragm from underneath and capping the vacuum port. Release diaphragm pressure but keep your fingers in light contact to sense if the diaphragm leaks down. 10-15 seconds should tell you something. The line underneath the manifold can be tested with the pump by capping one end with a finger and applying slight vacuum to the other end. Same thing--look for leak down.

MAP sensor would be more important than the EGR system.

Squeal? Difficult to say, but usually a belt squeal will also show up immediately after starting due to the load placed on the alternator as it tries to recharge the drawdown on the battery.

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Report this Post12-11-2015 11:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Tell the young lady to contain herself.


Will do.

And alright ill see about buying a vacuum pump. Is the car safe to drive until then? I have an interview for a job monday which i know im going to get, and i should be getting a paycheck friday. So i cant buy anyting until then

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Report this Post12-11-2015 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The code 32 and 33 aren't going to hurt. I can't say about the squeal without actually hearing it in person as I was only looking at the common cause of squealing. It could be a water pump or alternator or anything. Just throwing out the most likely source.
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Report this Post12-11-2015 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
P&G, I've been following this thread since you started it, and am impressed with your excitement, interest and enthusiasm for your car. You're wise to try and identify the root causes of any issues to avoid wasting money on unnecessary purchases.

I have the same mind-set when I'm faced with issues on my three Fieros. The Personal Friends Forum here is a fabulous resource for help with many members eager to provide useful information. I ordered my first Fiero in Sep 1983, am still driving it daily and I learn lots of things regularly from posts here on PFF.

I have also found that the Factory Service Manuals are invaluable resources for trouble-shooting, disassembly, repair and re-assembly. The details, diagrams, schematics etc. can be studied at your leisure and the knowledge you gain will help you significantly when you're resolving issues. Knowing the information from the FSM also facilitates the understanding of advice received here as well. You may find yourself reading the manual just to learn more about the car.

FSMs are available here: http://www.fierostore.com/P...rowse.aspx?d=281&p=1 and likely elsewhere as well

[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 12-12-2015).]

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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-11-2015 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:

P&G, I've been following this thread since you started it, and am impressed with your excitement, interest and enthusiasm for your car. You're wise to try and identify the root causes of any issues to avoid wasting money on unnecessary purchases.

I have the same mind-set when I'm faced with issues on my three Fieros. The Personal Friends Forum here is a fabulous resource for help with many members eager to provide useful information. I ordered my first Fiero in Sep 1983, am still driving it daily and I learn lots of things regularly from posts here on PFF.

I have also found that the Factory Service Manuals are invaluable resources for trouble-shooting, disassembly, repair and re-assembly. The details, diagrams, schematics etc. can be studied at your leisure and the knowledge you gain will help you significantly when you're resolving issues. Knowing the information from the FSM also facilitates the understanding of advice received here as well. You may find yourself reading the manual just to learn more about the car.

FSMs are available here: http://www.fierostore.com/P.../Detail.aspx?s=50201 87CD&d=281&p=1 and likely elsewhere as well.

Thank you very much. I appreciate it when someone understands my perspective. Id rather be here than a general mechanics forum, for people here have a feel for the fieros. You're like my grandpa, he ordered his before they were even released


As for the squeeling, i have a video Here and you can hear it at 22 seconds and 42 seconds. My grandpa suggested the stuff you buy and rub on the belt. Belt wax or something.. cant remember the name. But id like to pin point it and find out if its serious or not.

Ordered the oil pressure sending unit. Will be a few days.

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Report this Post12-12-2015 12:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
To see if the squeal is due to the belt being too loose, try having someone else start the engine while you watch the belt. It'll squeal when it starts to move. The tensioner may need some attention. If the belt surface that contacts the pulleys is cracked or glazed, a new belt may be needed...

I replaced the Fiero Store URL for the factory service manual link, as I noticed it didn't work right in the previous post.
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Report this Post12-13-2015 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Order wpuldnt go through for the oil pressure sending unit. Not enougg money in mybank aha. But now my car is reading code 32, 33 and 44 aswell

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Report this Post12-14-2015 09:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bump. So im getting codes 32, 33 and 44. Assoon as the fund come available, im ordering an o2 sensor, MAP sensor and oil pressure sending unit. Then ill move on to check all of the vacuum lines for a leak. So unless that needs immediate attention and cant wait a week or two or the car shouldnt be driven, i have another problem now.

I think the shifting problem was indead hydraulic. For today it stopped shifting (has been shifting fine for 700 miles) and tried pumping the clutch, then suddenly the pedal lost all pressure. The shift lever felt the way it did when i first had the problem, but im not sure if the pedal felt like this the first time as i didnt have the knowledge of how it SHOULD feel, at that time. I immediately pulled over and checked the slave, checked the master. Nothing seemed to be leaking. Then i checkedthe resoviour and ot was dead empty after bleeding and filling ~2.5 weeks ago. Luckily i had brake fluid in my tool box which i always travel with. Filled it up and pumped it. Then check the resoviour and bubbles were coming up... not sure if thats from when i was pumping it and it was empty, or if i didnt bleed successfully. So i will try bleeding by using the compressor technique, pushing everything out of the system.. but my question is, since the resoviour was empty, does that mean theres a leak?


Also, the "squeel" happened almost the whole way home today. Usually only when taking off and first getting up to speed. Thought id mention just incase someone knows exactly what this is, if not id like to stick to the above problem.

Thank you to anyoe who took the time to read all of this, i really appreciate it and would appreciate dearly for anyopinions. Happy holidays and god bless

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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 12-14-2015).]

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Report this Post12-14-2015 10:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

...since the resoviour was empty, does that mean theres a leak?


It's not evaporating!

 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Also, the "squeel" happened almost the whole way home today. Usually only when taking off and first getting up to speed.


Were you driving home in the rain by any chance?

I think you've already been told it's a belt squeal. If you don't have A/C, then there's only one belt to check. I'd loosen it just to make sure the water pump and alternator are turning freely, and then I'd tighten the belt up snug and see how it sounds. If the belt is worn and/or if the pulleys are greasy, I'd get a new belt and clean the pulleys well before installing the new belt.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-14-2015).]

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Report this Post12-14-2015 10:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Were you driving home in the rain?

I think you've already been told it's a belt squeal. If you don't have A/C, then there's only one belt to check. I'd loosen it just to make sure the water pump and alternator are turning freely, and then I'd tighten the belt up snug and see how it sounds. If the belt is worn and/or if the pulleys are greasy, I'd get a new belt and clean the pulleys well before installing the new belt.



Yes its been raining for thepast few days, but usually only squeels on start up. I have AC but ive never used it. Ill look up how to check the belt and loosen/tighten procedure.

As for the hydraulic line leak, it there anywhere in particular i should check? Is this common. I checked master and slave and they did not seem to be leaking

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Report this Post12-14-2015 10:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

As for the hydraulic line leak, it there anywhere in particular i should check? Is this common. I checked master and slave and they did not seem to be leaking


Given enough time, every hydraulic system is going to leak. The Fiero clutch hydraulics are certainly no exception. Look for wetness up by your clutch pedal where the banjo from the master cylinder comes through the bulkhead. And look in the rubber boot on the slave.
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Report this Post12-14-2015 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Given enough time, every hydraulic system is going to leak. The Fiero clutch hydraulics are certainly no exception. Look for wetness up by your clutch pedal where the banjo from the master cylinder comes through the bulkhead. And look in the rubber boot on the slave.


Ok thank you pat will check that tomorrow in the light, i remember previously in this thread there was some moisture on the banjo and carpet around it, but very minor. Seemed like it happened over alot of time. Is the worst case scenario that i have to replace the line?

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Report this Post12-14-2015 10:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Is the worst case scenario that i have to replace the line?


In my experience, it's very rare that the line itself ever needs to be replaced.

If there's ANY wetness where the banjo comes through the bulkhead, the master cylinder is leaking.
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Report this Post12-15-2015 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

In my experience, it's very rare that the line itself ever needs to be replaced.

If there's ANY wetness where the banjo comes through the bulkhead, the master cylinder is leaking.

But the whole resovior was empty? Im notan expert obviously and jot questioning you but wouldnt is be SATURATED if the entire thing leaked there?

Also, the clean fluid i put in ~2 weeks ago is black already.. like BLACK.

Edit, im having trouble finding it but i swear someone in this thread said i could bleed the clutch system with my air compressor, can anyone point me to that?


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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 12-15-2015).]

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Report this Post12-15-2015 07:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

...wouldnt is be SATURATED if the entire thing leaked there?


Where did I say "the entire thing leaked there"? I wouldn't be surprised if it's leaking at both ends. Or the line could be leaking as well.

Aren't cars fun?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-15-2015).]

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Report this Post12-15-2015 08:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you lost all the fluid in the system it shouldn't be hard to find. Something somewhere will be soaked with fluid. Most common is the master or slave. A line leak is possible, but the only way to find it is start searching the entire system. It may help to have someone operate the clutch while you look, but that big of a leak should be obvious.
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Report this Post12-15-2015 08:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Possibly in the carpet behind the pedal.
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Report this Post12-16-2015 03:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Checked today. I felt around the slave and under the rubber boot, and there was fluid. And around the carpet of the masters banjo, carpet was moist and the banjo had fluid on it. Im going to guess this is the problem entirely.

My to-replace list is o2 sensor, oil pressure sending unit and map sensor (to try to eliminate engine codes and oil light/ gauge moving like crazy) and now a slave and master from rodney.

Would it be wise to replace the slave and master before the sensors and oil pressure sending unit? I can only get these things as the funds come available, so itd probably take a week or two to get the master and slave, then another week or two for the other things. I have to drive the car still so i want to get whats most critical....

Its hard to afford all the things at once with the insurance for the car beung 209$ a month :'(

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Report this Post12-16-2015 04:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

I have to drive the car still so i want to get whats most critical....


What's more critical to you... a clutch that works or no codes?
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quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:


Its hard to afford all the things at once with the insurance for the car beung 209$ a month :'(



WHAT???!!! I don't even pay that per year. Well, almost. It's $135 for 6 months. Full coverage or bad driving record? I do realize you're a young guy, but that's just unreal.
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Report this Post12-17-2015 08:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:


WHAT???!!! I don't even pay that per year. Well, almost. It's $135 for 6 months. Full coverage or bad driving record? I do realize you're a young guy, but that's just unreal.


Liability only...they wouldnt even do full coverage. Perfect record.

And pat, its more critical for me to do whichever one first that would prevent further problems. I believe bad hydraulic causing the clutch to not full disengage would cause alot of wear. But i am asking for the opinions of the people. Car shifts like our brand new turbo genesis when a get a good full clutch pedal

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Report this Post12-17-2015 01:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFastBackL67Click Here to Email FieroFastBackL67Send a Private Message to FieroFastBackL67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm reposting this because I tried everything when I got my 87 gt and I'm certain if you do this it will work perfectly I'm telling you man. For the hydraulic clutch system do not bleed it like brakes. Disconnect the line from the front and the back and stick the air blasting attachment on a air compressor into the line to clear out the whole hydraulic line. Make sure you buy the dual seal piston for the slave cylinder. If purchasing new MC and new SC just reassemble everything. If using any of the old MC/SC clean them out and the reservoir and use racing silicone based brake fluid its purple colored. It will be a little anoyying to get the line full again but be patient. Do a gravity bleed its the only way to get all the air out. Do what this guy does but use the silicone based racing brake fluid I never had issues again after this. Watch the video https://youtu.be/55FPqvCJAgo

[This message has been edited by FieroFastBackL67 (edited 12-17-2015).]

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Report this Post12-17-2015 06:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroFastBackL67:

I'm reposting this because I tried everything when I got my 87 gt and I'm certain if you do this it will work perfectly I'm telling you man. For the hydraulic clutch system do not bleed it like brakes. Disconnect the line from the front and the back and stick the air blasting attachment on a air compressor into the line to clear out the whole hydraulic line. Make sure you buy the dual seal piston for the slave cylinder. If purchasing new MC and new SC just reassemble everything. If using any of the old MC/SC clean them out and the reservoir and use racing silicone based brake fluid its purple colored. It will be a little anoyying to get the line full again but be patient. Do a gravity bleed its the only way to get all the air out. Do what this guy does but use the silicone based racing brake fluid I never had issues again after this. Watch the video https://youtu.be/55FPqvCJAgo



Alright, sunday i will do this. I hook the compressor up to the master cylinder end correct? Detach the metal tube and try to push the air into it?

Also is there a procedure to clean out the master and slaves or is that even something i should do? If i determine it IS air in the system then i wont replace them just yet but since the fluid level goes down rapidly i suspect one of them is leaking very bad.

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Report this Post12-17-2015 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

If i determine it IS air in the system then i wont replace them just yet...


I don't know what further evidence you require. You saw with your own eyes that both the master and slave clutch cylinders are leaking. Fluid leaks out, air gets sucked in. They aren't going to magically heal.

IMO, it's also not a good idea for you to mess around with silicone based fluid (DOT 5) for your clutch. Any cross contamination with the original type of fluid (DOT 3 or 4) will cause you nothing but grief.
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Report this Post12-17-2015 07:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think the point you missed was that after you remove the master and slave, blow air through the lines to flush out the old fluid. Then install the new master and slave and bleed the system.
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FieroFastBackL67
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Report this Post12-18-2015 05:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFastBackL67Click Here to Email FieroFastBackL67Send a Private Message to FieroFastBackL67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

I think the point you missed was that after you remove the master and slave, blow air through the lines to flush out the old fluid. Then install the new master and slave and bleed the system.


Yes you are correct. You must get all the dot3 grape seed oil crap out using the air compressor. And anything else that has dot3 in it. And then put the silicone based fluid in. It works perfectly its been in my car for 2 years no problems.
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Report this Post12-18-2015 05:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFastBackL67Click Here to Email FieroFastBackL67Send a Private Message to FieroFastBackL67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by painandgain99:


Alright, sunday i will do this. I hook the compressor up to the master cylinder end correct? Detach the metal tube and try to push the air into it?

Also is there a procedure to clean out the master and slaves or is that even something i should do? If i determine it IS air in the system then i wont replace them just yet but since the fluid level goes down rapidly i suspect one of them is leaking very bad.




Detach the line from the master and the slave and shoot the air thru the clutch line till its dry as a popcorn fart. If you are re-using the master or the slave you will need to disassemble them and hit them with the air compressor as well or clean them out by hand making sure you don't have any old Dot 3 or 4 as Pat stated which is exactly what I mean. If using new master or slave cylinder obviously this doesn't need cleaning. Now get to work ;-)
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Report this Post12-18-2015 11:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Patrick:

I don't know what further evidence you require. You saw with your own eyes that both the master and slave clutch cylinders are leaking. Fluid leaks out, air gets sucked in. They aren't going to magically heal.

IMO, it's also not a good idea for you to mess around with silicone based fluid (DOT 5) for your clutch. Any cross contamination with the original type of fluid (DOT 3 or 4) will cause you nothing but grief.


Trying to fix the most crucial things first

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Report this Post12-18-2015 12:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by painandgain99:

Trying to fix the most crucial things first


Being able to disengage the clutch is probably one of the more "crucial" aspects of operating a car. Rates right up there with being able to stop the car IMO.

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Report this Post12-18-2015 12:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroFastBackL67:


Detach the line from the master and the slave and shoot the air thru the clutch line till its dry as a popcorn fart. If you are re-using the master or the slave you will need to disassemble them and hit them with the air compressor as well or clean them out by hand making sure you don't have any old Dot 3 or 4 as Pat stated which is exactly what I mean. If using new master or slave cylinder obviously this doesn't need cleaning. Now get to work ;-)


Hey P&G: Full credit to Shayne (above) for his success; at your experience level you will likely find that sticking to the standard methods & fluids will be less stressful and still successful.

My '84 SE clutch system is still using the original cylinders and fluid at 370,000 kilometers (230,000 miles). Just sayin...

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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post12-18-2015 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Being able to disengage the clutch is probably one of the more "crucial" aspects of operating a car. Rates right up there with being able to stop the car IMO.


LOL...you made my day Pat.
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FieroFastBackL67
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Report this Post12-19-2015 04:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFastBackL67Click Here to Email FieroFastBackL67Send a Private Message to FieroFastBackL67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:


Hey P&G: Full credit to Shayne (above) for his success; at your experience level you will likely find that sticking to the standard methods & fluids will be less stressful and still successful.

My '84 SE clutch system is still using the original cylinders and fluid at 370,000 kilometers (230,000 miles). Just sayin...


Off topic: How do you know my name?

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Patrick
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Report this Post12-19-2015 05:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by FieroFastBackL67:

Off topic: How do you know my name?


Well sweetie, he probably figured it was Shayne... rather than Sugar.

Heh heh... I hope you don't mind being teased. It was such a set up.
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FieroFastBackL67
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Report this Post12-20-2015 02:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFastBackL67Click Here to Email FieroFastBackL67Send a Private Message to FieroFastBackL67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Well sweetie, he probably figured it was Shayne... rather than Sugar.

Heh heh... I hope you don't mind being teased. It was such a set up.


Ahhhhhh yes my stupid highschool email address. Durrr... And yes Patty cakes I have a good sense of humor haha
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Report this Post12-20-2015 02:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFastBackL67Click Here to Email FieroFastBackL67Send a Private Message to FieroFastBackL67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:

My '84 SE clutch system is still using the original cylinders and fluid at 370,000 kilometers (230,000 miles). Just sayin...


I'm sure we can all agree that dot3/4 is grape seed oil crap it sucks up moisture and it does cause issues. Sometimes you end up with a good run. But most problems are caused by dot3/4 such as pitting etc. Silicone doesn't from my experience or to my knowledge. This is my reasoning. I just don't like the possibility of issues and would rather avoid them.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-23-2015 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
havent updated in a while.. dropped my phone in a fishtank and a family member passed. Have been busy. The car has been running great besides having to fill up the MC fluid every other day and the SES light coming on when going at a steady 50mph for 30 seconds or so.

The Master cylinder is leaking, but not nearly as bad as the slave. i put a shop towel under the slave today and pumped the clutch a few times, and the shop rag had a puddle of fluid in it. its leaking from under the rubber boot... and ALOT. Will be replacing both cyllinders with rodneys after christmas, then move on to the other issues.


Thanks for all the help guys. will update once i get some work done on her.

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