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Car wont go into gear by painandgain99
Started on: 11-27-2015 10:49 PM
Replies: 215 (3480 views)
Last post by: andreww on 02-21-2017 04:32 PM
painandgain99
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Report this Post11-29-2015 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:


When the car first is shut off, it wont go into gear. But after its cooled off, it will again just fine. The fluid we bled was black as coal.. does that mean its getting burnt?
We bled it all out and got new fluid in. We're gettingan inch atleast on theslave now



Double post, it will shift fine when off and cool but sometimes is a little rough. I quit my job today so tomorrow ill have a try at adjusting the cables and checking if the slave is getting that clearance while hot. Maybe get some heat wrap or a heat shield aswell since its so cheap. Maybe itll last long enough so i can drive it to apply to places so i can get money for the car. Lol

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Report this Post11-30-2015 12:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
small update, i sprayed wd40 on the slave after driving awhile to see if it would steam off, and it did. Meaning the slave is getting hot. I did not adjust the shift cables yet, will try to today. But I think if it was them, it would go into an improper gear. If it was the slave, id be having clutch problems. But heres the thing... It goes into the correct gear, Even when im having problems and it wont shift, once i get it into gear it is the correct one... the clutch engages and disengages just fine. The car drives fine once in gear. No grinding or jumping. Exept for the fiero first time the car would shift, i got it into reverse and the whole car jumped as if i dumped the clutch. But thats the only time that happened. Im going to adjust the shift cables and check the slave clearance after its been warmed up today. My service manual says that it not going into gear is either a faulty clutch or faulty gearbox... very open to suggestions anyone. i might take it to a mechanic soon if i cant figure it out.

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Report this Post11-30-2015 09:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you can, when it won't shift unhook your shift cables at the trans and see if the shifter will move. The more symptoms you list the more it sounds like a cable seizing when it gets hot.
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Report this Post11-30-2015 11:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

If you can, when it won't shift unhook your shift cables at the trans and see if the shifter will move. The more symptoms you list the more it sounds like a cable seizing when it gets hot.



I hope youre right. I reallyneed this car driving. If you could be kind enough to help me out, i have been having a hell of a time finding a shift cable adjustment tutorial on here. Theyrr all for the shift lever whenever i search. And in my service manual i cant understand the 6 steps. They don't tell you to do anything. Can you or anyone give me a link on how to adjust the shift cables or tell me how to please?

Tomorrow i will drive the car until it wont shift and then some more. It usually starts out the same. Gets more rough getting into first gear. Then it wont go into first. Then second. Then i turn it off. But the first time, since i wasnt near home, i had to keep driving. And it got to a point where it wouldnt go into any gear. I havent gotten it to that point since the first time, i assume its something that keeps getting hotter and hotter.

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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 11-30-2015).]

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Report this Post11-30-2015 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

i have been having a hell of a time finding a shift cable adjustment tutorial on here.


Surely one of the 22 threads listed Here will tell you what you need to know.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-01-2015 12:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Surely one of the 22 threads listed Here will tell you what you need to know.



Thank you Patrick. If you provide your paypal i will start paying you hourly for searching threads for me. And then pay for the computer i made you punch.. Jk. I will post a screenshot tomorrow after i search the same exact words and nothing pops up. Something must be wrong with my computer. It always does the same thing.... but thats for a computer forum.


I will try adjusting tomorrow and post results.
My understanding is this

1) put into 3rd gear and insert pin into slot
2) loosen nut of shift cable
3) pull cable upward as far as it goes
4)tighten nut with cable in that position

Correct?

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Report this Post12-01-2015 12:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFastBackL67Click Here to Email FieroFastBackL67Send a Private Message to FieroFastBackL67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This may help you. My 87 gt had all these issues. A friend of mine who owned many stock fieros in the past told me that some fieros have a flywheel issue from the factory and that the clutch doesn't fully disengage. He had to get his machined because even with the peddle all the way pushed it was still slightly grabbing mine isn't having this issue. As for the hydraulic clutch system do not bleed it like brakes. Disconnect the line from the front and the back and stick the air blasting attachment on a air compressor into the line to clear out the whole hydraulic line. Make sure you buy the dual seal piston for the slave cylinder. If purchasing new MC and new SC just reassemble everything and use racing silicone based brake fluid its purple colored. Do a gravity bleed its the only way to get all the air out. Do what this guy does but use the silicone based racing brake fluid I never had issues again after this. Watch the video https://youtu.be/55FPqvCJAgo

[This message has been edited by FieroFastBackL67 (edited 12-01-2015).]

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Report this Post12-01-2015 01:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Symptoms listed, shifts fine when cold with some resistance. Won't shift when hot even with the engine off until it cools off, that part should rule out clutch issues. That leaves either a cable seizing (hopefully) or internal trans parts seizing ($$$).
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Report this Post12-01-2015 02:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:

Maybe the clutch shaft is binding in the hole when everything gets warmed up...

That happened to my '84 SE in Aug1997 at 210,200 km; the clutch quit "clutching'. It turned out to be the shaft binding in the hole going through to the clutch fork. The transmission was pulled, and the shaft and throw-out bearing were freed up.


Anyone else ever have this issue? Is it not a possibility?

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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-01-2015 03:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Got some photos of a few things i noticed while looking around today...

I found a hole in the shift cables heat shield... its near the throttle body.
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

The little rubber piece around the shift cable is torn, im sure its irrelevant but never know thought id show it


And the heat shield around the EGR tube thats been ripped, near the slave sort of just incase the slave fluid boiling hasnt been ruled out.

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Report this Post12-01-2015 07:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Holy cow! I can't see the first pic, but the EGR tube heat may fry your IAC.
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painandgain99
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Originally posted by tshark:

Holy cow! I can't see the first pic, but the EGR tube heat may fry your IAC.


Yes ive been trying to fit a new heat wrap into my budget, i just ordered a new IAC today.

The first pick is of the shift cable running directly under the throttle body/air intake metal tube and theres a big hole in the shift cables heat shield

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Report this Post12-01-2015 08:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:


Yes ive been trying to fit a new heat wrap into my budget, i just ordered a new IAC today.

The first pick is of the shift cable running directly under the throttle body/air intake metal tube and theres a big hole in the shift cables heat shield



I think you may have found your shift problem from looking at the cable in the first photo.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-01-2015 08:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:


I think you may have found your shift problem from looking at the cable in the first photo.


I sure hope so. Im goingto buy some fiberglass heat tape tomorrow and try wrapping it to see if that helps. Ive been praying its not the transmission

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Originally posted by painandgain99:


Yes ive been trying to fit a new heat wrap into my budget, i just ordered a new IAC today.

The first pick is of the shift cable running directly under the throttle body/air intake metal tube and theres a big hole in the shift cables heat shield



Monitor casualty count: Patrick 2....Jason 1....
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Report this Post12-02-2015 09:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't think that hole in the heat blanket or dust boot on the shift cable is the cause of any shifting problems. I have been running a cable like that for almost 15 years and I don't know how long it was like that before I bought the car. I another thread, someone having shifting problems found that one of the two seals on a Dickman slave was partially folded or turned in the wrong direction. If you're opposed to buying a complete slave, Rodney sells the double seal piston repair kit.

Adjusting the cables requires putting the shifter into First gear and inserting the pin. Then loosen the nut on that cable. With your hand, push downward on the transmission lever in a motion to push it further into First, then wiggle it slightly to be sure it's settled into the First gear position. Tighten the cable nut. I don't think cable adjustment has anything to do with the symptoms, either. I just posted this for the correct method.

In the meantime, to temporarily repair that EGR tube heat shield, purchase a roll of picture hanger wire and use it to wrap around and around the shield to keep it closed. It's probably too deteriorated to try to sew it back together, but if not, you can use the same wire to stitch it together.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-02-2015 10:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Everyone is telling me different things now im not sure where to start 😂😂

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Report this Post12-02-2015 10:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can't check a cable by looking at it. Unhook it from both ends and see if operates smoothly. There should be almost no resistance.
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quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

You can't check a cable by looking at it. Unhook it from both ends and see if operates smoothly. There should be almost no resistance.


If u detach it from both ends, the shift lever would have nothing to move? Id think itd move freely with nothing attached to it..

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Report this Post12-02-2015 04:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Id think itd move freely with nothing attached to it..


Detach it and find out!

I can sense computer monitors being punched throughout PFF land.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-02-2015 06:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Detach it and find out!

I can sense computer monitors being punched throughout PFF land.


ok ok, im sorry. I agree to reimburse any computer screens with holes in them and/or keyboards broken in half because of my actions. I havent had time to adjust the cables yet, should be able to tomorrow. i have not driven it to the point of the gear locking up in a few days. today i noticed that when it is starting to get rough going into gear, once i get it into that gear, it shifts smoothly from neutral to said gear. but then none of the other gear unless i put it in first. it will go smoothly into the gear it was in last.

Now im insecure about adjusting, everywhere else i have read says to put in third. now im being told to put in first? im going to try tomorrow by putting in third, putting pin in shift lever, loosening the nut the attaches the shift cable to the thingy mabobber on the trans. then letting it go freely wherever it wants, then re tighten.

side note, it always starts with first gear. The very first time, is wouldnt go into first but i kept driving. the i stopped as a stop sign facing down hill, and it wouldnt go into any gear. Got it into reverse and the hole car jumped etc... i took a video of it not going into gear, then i pumped the clutch and it went in. But it couldve been random... it goes back in whenever it feels like it,

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Report this Post12-02-2015 07:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

im going to try tomorrow by putting in third, putting pin in shift lever, loosening the nut the attaches the shift cable to the thingy mabobber on the trans. then letting it go freely wherever it wants, then re tighten.


If... that's IF it's badly out of adjustment, you may not be able to put the pin through the adjustment hole in the shifter until after you loosen the fitting at the tranny end.

It's been a few years since I've adjusted the shifter in my manual Fieros, so I can't remember enough to give a more detailed explanation.
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Originally posted by painandgain99:

Everyone is telling me different things now im not sure where to start 😂😂



When you start to adjust your cable, this is reading from the manual.--Summarized--And with comments.

1. Disconnect Negative Battery Cable. (Why, I don't know)
2. Place transaxle in first gear.
3. Loosen shift cable attaching nut.
4. Remove console shift trim.
5. Hold shifter lever to the left and forward and insert alignment pin to hold shifter in place.
6. Remove lash from transmission lever by rotating (toward rear). Attach cable and tighten. Do not allow lever to move while tightening nut.

Remove pin, attach negative cable, drive car to see if adjustment was effective.
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Report this Post12-02-2015 07:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by fierofool:


When you start to adjust your cable, this is reading from the manual.--Summarized--And with comments.

1. Disconnect Negative Battery Cable. (Why, I don't know)
2. Place transaxle in first gear.
3. Loosen shift cable attaching nut.
4. Remove console shift trim.
5. Hold shifter lever to the left and forward and insert alignment pin to hold shifter in place.
6. Remove lash from transmission lever by rotating (toward rear). Attach cable and tighten. Do not allow lever to move while tightening nut.

Remove pin, attach negative cable, drive car to see if adjustment was effective.


This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view. im so confused. You and my manual are saying different things. This is the 5 dpeed getrag

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Report this Post12-02-2015 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pretty much the same thing, except one specifies 1st gear and the other specifies 3rd gear. I usually adjust mine in 3rd.
In reality, it probably doesn't make any difference. (FWIW, when my Getrag shift cable was mis-adjusted, it would jump out of gear.)
There is no adjustment on the select (side to side) cable
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quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:


This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view. im so confused. You and my manual are saying different things. This is the 5 dpeed getrag




Yes, my manual does, too, but it uses a generic procedure for both the 4 and 5 speeds. The Haynes says to loosen the nuts on both cables. Only the 4-speed Muncie and the Isuzu have a nut on the end of both cables. It also says to place a second pin in the mechanism in a vertical position to hold it over in the first gear position. There's no provision for that on the Getrag.

Like Raydar said, there's no adjustment on the Getrag select, so I summarized the instructions. It probably is the same if you put it in Third. The idea is to get the transmission shift lever fully back and engaged into gear before tightening the cable nut. You're doing fine with either gear.
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Report this Post12-02-2015 11:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:


Yes, my manual does, too, but it uses a generic procedure for both the 4 and 5 speeds. The Haynes says to loosen the nuts on both cables. Only the 4-speed Muncie and the Isuzu have a nut on the end of both cables. It also says to place a second pin in the mechanism in a vertical position to hold it over in the first gear position. There's no provision for that on the Getrag.

Like Raydar said, there's no adjustment on the Getrag select, so I summarized the instructions. It probably is the same if you put it in Third. The idea is to get the transmission shift lever fully back and engaged into gear before tightening the cable nut. You're doing fine with either gear.

Alright thank you i wil definitely do it tomorrow, in some tutorials ive seen to spray wd40 on te mechanism on the tranny and/or tap it with a wrench or something? Or move it with your hand? Or should i not do this

BTW, message to patrick, my search function wasnt working becaus i wasnt searching the archives.. only the general chat area... oops. Should work now
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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 12-02-2015).]

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Report this Post12-02-2015 11:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by painandgain99:

BTW, message to patrick, my search function wasnt working becaus i wasnt searching the archives.. only the general chat area... oops. Should work now


I purposely sent you the link that I did so that you could see for yourself the search settings that I used... because I knew you had mistakenly limited your search.

And for a whole lot more hits during a search, choose "Entire thread" instead of "Subject/Username".

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Surely one of the 22 threads listed Here will tell you what you need to know.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-03-2015).]

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Report this Post12-03-2015 08:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:
....................................in some tutorials ive seen to spray wd40 on te mechanism on the tranny and/or tap it with a wrench or something? Or move it with your hand? Or should i not do this



I've never seen any instructions like those. I recommend tapping on the slave when bleeding. Some recommend pushing the pushrod in by hand when bleeding the slave. Maybe that's what you remember. The slave isn't involved with the process of adjusting cables.

You could use your hand to try to rotate the transmission arm toward the back of the car to be sure it's fully engaged in the gear. The shifter mechanism is a push-pull operation. Old mechanical linkage shifters moved the transmission lever in the same direction as the shifter knob. With cable assemblies, they generally move them just the opposite, so, when you move hour shift knob forward, it pushes the cable backward against the transmission lever.

On the shifter knob, 1, 3, and 5 are forward, making them to the rear on the transmission lever.
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Report this Post12-03-2015 02:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I adjusted the shift cable. Improved the shifting, but did not fix the problem. I dont think its the cable. Its something in the transmission. When it wouldn't go into first, i disconnected the shift cable and tried pushing the little bracket the shift cable attaches to inward, and towards the rear of the car (first gear) and it wouldnt go unless i first got it into second, and then down into first. Im not sure if its something getting hot rather than... shifting too much? I feel like the gear is out of sync. It has only done it when i tried to put it into first while moving or when going through the gear pattern and then going back to first. So im not sure what to do at this point besides save up for a mechanic. Im not sure if i should still drive it... very upsettig.

The adjustment now lets it go all the way into first, 3rd and 5th. It makes a little sound now and i can tell its going all the way in. This is very sad for me. The car is running excellent. 1500rpm at 55mph in 5th gear. Its runs amazing. But nothing i can do i guess. Thanks for your help everyone

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tebailey
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Report this Post12-03-2015 02:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
One thing to try before you spend the $$$ for a mechanic is to drain your tranny and replace the oil. Not sure about the 5 speeds but the syncromesh fluid I have in my 4 speed shifts perfect and smooth with it. It's a long shot but if it works it will save you $$$.
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fierofool
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Report this Post12-03-2015 02:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The Getrag does seem to have a little problem getting into first gear. The normal thing to do is to pull it into second gear, then into first. I normally put my shifter in neutral and let the clutch out when sitting at a stop light or sign. One of mine has no problems but the other frequently requires putting it into second gear then first. Sometimes, I even have to make the car move just a little in second in order to get it to go into first gear. Apparently the synchronizers wear down and aren't as effective. No crunching and grinding. It just won't go into first.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-03-2015 02:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

The Getrag does seem to have a little problem getting into first gear. The normal thing to do is to pull it into second gear, then into first. I normally put my shifter in neutral and let the clutch out when sitting at a stop light or sign. One of mine has no problems but the other frequently requires putting it into second gear then first. Sometimes, I even have to make the car move just a little in second in order to get it to go into first gear. Apparently the synchronizers wear down and aren't as effective. No crunching and grinding. It just won't go into first.


I have heard they are rough going into first and i got used to putting it into second, and then first until the one time it wouldnt go into first whatsoever. And then wouldnt go into any gear after i kepts driving it. Luckily i wasnt in the middle of an intersection....

As suggested i will see about changing the tranny fluid. Something else i forgot to mention was i havent changed the coolant yet after i bought the car after it sat for 5 years... or the oil for that matter but im changing the oil anyday now and its not badly burnt or low. But something im not sure of, does the coolant cool the transmission? Or just the engine...or..? Because if it is old and needs to be changed i can imagine it not cooling as much as it should be. If its for the tranny, perhaps It IS something getting too hot. Just a thought.

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Patrick
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Report this Post12-03-2015 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

...does the coolant cool the transmission?


Only if it's an automatic.

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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-03-2015 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Patrick:

Only if it's an automatic.


I see...

Well i dont think its the clutch. Its not the shift cable. Its not hydraulic. Could the synchronization be messed up? I dont know how this works but... if you can throw a trannu out of sync, that seems like what happened when it wouldnt go into first then eventually wouldnt go into any gear.


The only thing i could think of being with the clutch is when it wouldnt go into reverse, then i finally got it into reverse and the hole car jumped. But thats the only time its done that. Reverse usually doesnt grind unless i put it in righr after stopping and whenever it doesnt go into gear i let the car role a little then it goes right in

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Gall757
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Report this Post12-03-2015 03:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Something else i forgot to mention was i havent changed the coolant yet after i bought the car after it sat for 5 years... or the oil for that matter but im changing the oil anyday now



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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post12-03-2015 03:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You may have a hard time getting a mechanic to pull the transmission. Good luck bud. Don't give up.

Have you resolved why the fluid was getting so hot for the clutch?
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-03-2015 03:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Gall757:




Im going to do those things when it becomes a daily driver 😂

And jason, i have not. I noticed the steam from what i sprayed on was coming off of the exhaust, not the slave. So i think ill leave that for now. I need to change the coolant and see if the thermostat is messed up. The temperature isnt going above 110-120 and i dont think thats correct lol. Thank you i will keep trying. I dont want to have to sell this car... thatd crush my fiero dreams

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Patrick
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Report this Post12-03-2015 03:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

As suggested i will see about changing the tranny fluid.


Draining the transmisson oil might tell you what you need to know. If the oil contains a lot of metal powder/shavings... or chunks(!), you can probably deduce that your shifting problems are internal in nature. I'm no tranny expert, but if metal in the drained oil is brass in color, that might indicate heavy syncro wear. However, I'm just sort of guessing with this.
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Gall757
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Report this Post12-03-2015 03:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Don't drive it around the block without changing fluids. The most wear happens when the engine is cold.
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