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Any and all things 3.4 DOHC........... by pavo_roddy
Started on: 11-22-2006 12:30 AM
Replies: 1236 (63868 views)
Last post by: Raydar on 01-11-2021 07:06 AM
FieroWannaBe
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quote
Originally posted by fieromadman:

Heres another A/C idler pulley that looks closer to what I had imagined we would need.

http://store.summitracing.c...94924744+4294840048+


Jeff, I sent a PM your way.
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Report this Post03-28-2007 08:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olaf_fiero27Click Here to Email olaf_fiero27Send a Private Message to olaf_fiero27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
does anyone have the torque specs for this motor, im starting assembley of my rebuild and i need torque specs. Also I need a diagram as to where to clock the rings, and whats the best cleaner to clean old pistons with i just wanna clean them up a bit
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[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 12-05-2008).]

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bump
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[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 12-05-2008).]

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Report this Post04-19-2007 10:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for flames4meClick Here to Email flames4meSend a Private Message to flames4meEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a quick question I guess, is there anyway to time the cams to 6/6 without dropping the engine? while its still in the car.

------------------
1986 Silver 5 speed Fiero 3.4 DOHC
Bored .30, Fully balanced and blueprinted
13.93@101mph as it is on the street.
... ... !
350ci 400hp/tq SBC, 4 bolt main
Spec Stage 3, Nitrous Oxide, many extras.
87 GT 5-speed Getrag, power everything.

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Report this Post04-19-2007 11:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroWannaBeClick Here to Email FieroWannaBeSend a Private Message to FieroWannaBeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the cam timing tool that is currently being reproduced at 60degree, i think can do it.
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Report this Post04-23-2007 08:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just finished my custom "Dog Bone". Check it out.

I took the lifting eye, cut and ground it down to a shape where I could weld a piece of pipe that would sit very low, then spent several hours with some 1/4" stock. This is what I came up with, it was the basic design, later to be refined.


After several more hours of work, a bunch of trimming, and adding a 1/8" plate to the top and welding, grinding and paint, this is the final product. Very sexy factory looking chunk of metal.




Sure it looks pretty, but it also fits under the decklid, no decklid trimming needed.
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[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 12-05-2008).]

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Report this Post04-24-2007 12:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You will need to reinforce the power steering mounting bracket that you have attached the dog bone to. Check these out:




The dog bone looks great though!

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 04-24-2007).]

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rpro
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Report this Post04-24-2007 01:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rproClick Here to Email rproSend a Private Message to rproEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here's what lurks under my hood. It has withstood the torque flawlessly.



This images is larger than 102400 bytes. Click to view.

[This message has been edited by rpro (edited 04-24-2007).]

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Report this Post04-24-2007 07:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Iv'e seen the timing cover snap in two instances, yours being one. It has been a concern, but I think most of the time it was caused by a rotational force on the hanger bracket. My bushing is bolted to the cam carrier much like the old lifting eye was. It should place almost all the forces on the cam carrier bolt hole. However, looking at your picture again and it's getting me thinking about where I can add another piece of metal to keep the bushing from putting any forces into the timing cover. There isn't anything to bolt to though...
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Report this Post05-03-2007 12:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olaf_fiero27Click Here to Email olaf_fiero27Send a Private Message to olaf_fiero27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pretty general question for ya guys, my build is coming up to an end an I was just wondering, ive got a 92 motor, with a harness and ecm and fuse block from a 94. Will this work together and will I run into an problems?
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Report this Post05-04-2007 03:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just an FYI, I have to point out Darren Freed as the rightful reverse engineer of the OBD 1.5 computers. It took the guy years to do it. Some time ago, his hack was available on his college web page. It is one of the best hacks I have seen of a code, especially one with SFI. His work made me change my mind about which code I would use on my Fiero. He too is (was?) a Fiero guy.

Not saying that Darth doesn't do really good work, but this hack was not his.

After reviewing the hack, I am convinced that the OBD 1.5 computer is the best computer for ALL 3.4 DOHC applications from 94-97. With some work, even boosted.

91-93's still have to stick with the 16149396 or 1227727 / 730 computers because they lack most of the critical sensors for SFI. But hacks are just as available for these computers.

I still don't see the practicality in the Haltech, or other aftermarket computers, EXCEPT for the fact that they are easier to modify and don't have such a steep learning curve. In the end you still won't have the drivability, the features, and the cost effectivness of the factory ECM's. Then what if it breaks? its another $1,000. As opposed to $25 at the u-pull it.

That being said, it's still fairly difficult to try to dumb down a 94-95 ECM to not run SFI, and run off a MAP sensor. It doesn't even have a MAP sensor at all, and one cannot be hooked up to it without some serious understanding of the code, or some special hardware. I am hoping to hook up a MAP sensor just so that it will report to the ALDL stream along with my WBO2, I am using the transmission temperature input to do this dirty deed with the WBO2, but I need another Analog port for the MAP. This is why it's difficult.

Sounds like fun!
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Speaking of those codes... does anyone have them availible still? I saw that webpage a few years back but haven't stumbled across it since. Anyone have them saved?
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Report this Post05-04-2007 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
this is what I did for A/C delete







.

------------------

88 TTop coupe (96 3.4DOHC/5 speed in progress)
03 Vibe GT. 6spd
05 GTO, LS2, 6spd
01 Sonoma SLS, 5spd, ZQ8 sport suspension

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quote
Originally posted by Fierobsessed:

Just an FYI, I have to point out Darren Freed as the rightful reverse engineer of the OBD 1.5 computers. It took the guy years to do it. Some time ago, his hack was available on his college web page. It is one of the best hacks I have seen of a code, especially one with SFI. His work made me change my mind about which code I would use on my Fiero. He too is (was?) a Fiero guy.

Not saying that Darth doesn't do really good work, but this hack was not his.

After reviewing the hack, I am convinced that the OBD 1.5 computer is the best computer for ALL 3.4 DOHC applications from 94-97. With some work, even boosted.

91-93's still have to stick with the 16149396 or 1227727 / 730 computers because they lack most of the critical sensors for SFI. But hacks are just as available for these computers.

I still don't see the practicality in the Haltech, or other aftermarket computers, EXCEPT for the fact that they are easier to modify and don't have such a steep learning curve. In the end you still won't have the drivability, the features, and the cost effectivness of the factory ECM's. Then what if it breaks? its another $1,000. As opposed to $25 at the u-pull it.

That being said, it's still fairly difficult to try to dumb down a 94-95 ECM to not run SFI, and run off a MAP sensor. It doesn't even have a MAP sensor at all, and one cannot be hooked up to it without some serious understanding of the code, or some special hardware. I am hoping to hook up a MAP sensor just so that it will report to the ALDL stream along with my WBO2, I am using the transmission temperature input to do this dirty deed with the WBO2, but I need another Analog port for the MAP. This is why it's difficult.

Sounds like fun!


Did not know this! Thank you for sharing.
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fieromadman
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Report this Post05-05-2007 03:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got ahold of Darren and got the bin file from him if anyone is curious...

heres what he said:

Attached is a disassembly of your PCM. This, plus a .bin editor (ie TunerPro) and a prom eraser and programmer is all you need to get it tuned up.

Use at your own risk! I don't support this - I've moved on to OBD-II, PCMs.

Good Luck,

Darren


-Jeff

------------------

--180* t-stat, cams, 96-97 intake swap, FFP pulley, A/C Idler, flowmaster exhaust, EGR delete, K&N filter, chip--
--Check out the Fiero Kingdom!--

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Report this Post05-05-2007 03:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by qwikgta:

this is what I did for A/C delete






I can't imagine not having AC especially during the hot humid summers here in Iowa

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quote
Originally posted by fieromadman:

I got ahold of Darren and got the bin file from him if anyone is curious...



!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Check your PM's!
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skstibi
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Report this Post05-06-2007 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skstibiClick Here to Email skstibiSend a Private Message to skstibiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have been trying to make a decision on what I want to do. I have two 3.4DOHC engines and a regular 3.1. I only have a few months to do this and I don't know what motor I want to use.
My biggest concern with the 3.4 is doing the exhaust, wiring, programming, and how long the installation takes.

Any ideas for me?
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qwikgta
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Report this Post05-06-2007 09:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Erik:


I can't imagine not having AC especially during the hot humid summers here in Iowa


Erik,
Yea, it can suck sometimes. But this makes it better. When the weather is great, the tops are off. And "most" of the time, there is a nice breeze coming off the ocean.




RJ
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fieromadman
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Report this Post05-07-2007 12:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Exhaust isnt that hard to do, the wiring can be accomplished rather easily, erik may or may not be able to help you out with the wiring, and you CAN run a stock manual ECM for the time being but you may as well have darth take care of the chip right away because his turn around time is quick. I did my swap in about 2 months.
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Report this Post05-07-2007 10:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for skstibiClick Here to Email skstibiSend a Private Message to skstibiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am fine with doing wiring and I guess I could take the cradle/engine and have a exhaust made how I want it since the welder went to New Zealand with my dad.
Another 3.4 GT on the roads in a while then
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olaf_fiero27
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Report this Post05-07-2007 05:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olaf_fiero27Click Here to Email olaf_fiero27Send a Private Message to olaf_fiero27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Very nice a/c delete bracket. Do you happen to have the dimensions of that so that I could fab one up and also what pulley is that just a standard GM idler pulley it looks like?
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olaf_fiero27
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Report this Post05-07-2007 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olaf_fiero27Click Here to Email olaf_fiero27Send a Private Message to olaf_fiero27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
also which alternator do I have to run on this motor from which GM veichle will work? hopefully its not the lumina z-34's cause its so hard to get it out but i think its just a generic newer GM alternator?
And one last question, Im going to use a stock fiero thermostat housing off of the 3.4 intake manifold, it seems that it will make filling, and burping the cooling system much easier will this work without issue, it bolts up no prob and uses the same gasket the factory setup does too

[This message has been edited by olaf_fiero27 (edited 05-07-2007).]

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Report this Post05-07-2007 06:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PhilphineClick Here to Email PhilphineSend a Private Message to PhilphineEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
i'm just meddling in this thread. i skimmed it pretty quick and didn't notice anything about weight. i know rockcrawl listed the weight on his page making it pretty heavy, but most other people saying it couldn't weight as much as he listed it at. did anyone else weight theirs for comparing? thanks.
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Report this Post05-07-2007 06:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Emc209iClick Here to Email Emc209iSend a Private Message to Emc209iEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes I did. It weighed almost 500lbs with about 10 pounds of fluids in it. It's a heavy motor, but I've yet to even feel the difference in the car. Still feels rock solid in the car, the back end stays stable.

[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 12-05-2008).]

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Report this Post05-08-2007 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Olaf.... if you were talking about my (qwikgta) A/C delete bracket, no I don't have any dimensions for it. I just used a cardboard template, cut it out of some sheet metal I had and drilled the holes. As for the pulley, I went to a local parts store and told them what I was doing, they went through a bunch of pulleys until we found one that was the correct number of grooves and about the same size as the stock A/C pulley. Sorry but it was one of the easiest things I have done on the swap. Way better than the Dog-bone saga I had.

RJ

[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 05-08-2007).]

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Report this Post05-09-2007 12:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olaf_fiero27Click Here to Email olaf_fiero27Send a Private Message to olaf_fiero27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
thanks for the help guys, which alternator should I be running for this setup?
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olaf_fiero27
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Report this Post05-09-2007 12:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olaf_fiero27Click Here to Email olaf_fiero27Send a Private Message to olaf_fiero27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
when it comes time to do the cam timing this is how i interpret it but i just need to make sure its right. remove cam gears. bolt down hold downs with both sides flats up. put rear bank gears on with no lock ring so they freewheel but hold down is still in place. now on the front bank install the cam gears and install the timing belt, spin the crank 360 degress now the front bank should be facing down now follow the same steps for the rear bank so that when the motor is tunned another 360 and its done one side up and one is down. Does it matter which bank you do first, and which side is considered the front...
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ltlfrari
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Report this Post05-09-2007 07:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
for the a/c delete I came accross Motormite parn # 34197 recently that is supposed by the correct delete bracket and pulley for this engine. Around $40 I think, however I have not confirmed that this is in fact true, maybe someone else could.

For the cam timing you need to have the belt installed before you start, let the cogs freewheel while setting it up. From what I recall I 'think' you do the rear bank first but actually I don't think it matters too much on this engine since the coils fire on every rev of the engine, even the exhaust stroke as each is shared with it's partner active cyl. It might make a slight difference but I can't say for sure.

[This message has been edited by ltlfrari (edited 05-09-2007).]

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Report this Post05-09-2007 09:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Emc209iClick Here to Email Emc209iSend a Private Message to Emc209iEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ltlfrari:

For the cam timing you need to have the belt installed before you start, let the cogs freewheel while setting it up. From what I recall I 'think' you do the rear bank first but actually I don't think it matters too much on this engine since the coils fire on every rev of the engine, even the exhaust stroke as each is shared with it's partner active cyl. It might make a slight difference but I can't say for sure.



Yep, and it is a great idea to do all of the timing with the belt on, so you know there is no slight variation. If the motor is at Top Dead Center then you should do the rear cams first (the head on the left from the front of the motor).
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Report this Post05-09-2007 10:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olaf_fiero27Click Here to Email olaf_fiero27Send a Private Message to olaf_fiero27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
so the rear bank when looking at the engine in the car would be the forward most head?
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Report this Post05-09-2007 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The rear would be the one closest to the rear of the car, or looking that the engine from the front, or pulley side, the one on the left.
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Report this Post05-10-2007 08:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That's weired...I posted this from another location and it's not here?

Anyway, I just wanted to chime in with an up date on mine. Most of you may or may not remember the three video windows on the first page. Well that's mine but now it's red. Suprisingly I had the 135 bank out of sync time also with -6/-16. If you saw the video you probably know it moved well. SO....I had to tear the motor back down to replace timming chain, tentioner, oil pump, filter, oil.....you get the picture. Well this time I corrected the banks the way they were supose to be (set bank 246, then rotate crank 180* then set bank 135), I set both at the same point. That caused it to fire in pairs...ie 1&4 , 3&6 than 5&2. Power was great but very rough idle.

So, I correctly set the timming and I changed my timming to stock/-13* and now......I lost power on top end but now my lower and mid range power is better. It even idles much better. I'll take it tough, it's nice to have a smooth idle that doesn't rattle you apart.

How much the -6/-16 and stock/-13* difference is? I'm not sure since the banks were out of sync. Anyway I wil try to get a dyno print out soon but I already know my power on top end is down.
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fieromadman
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From: Oconomowoc WI, USA
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Report this Post05-11-2007 01:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Interesting, what else is done to your engine besides the cam timing?
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procarnut
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Report this Post05-11-2007 06:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
95 crate motor bal/blue print
96 heads and intake (port polish, three angle cut valves and seats)
kept 95 cams
cut upper intake 6 inches from lower intake and welded 2. 25 pipe with 2.8 throtle body
made Headers (first page here)
deleted P/S pump with idler pully
3" exhaust
Flowmaster muffler
Made Under Drive Pully
Stock OBD 2 computer
6 button clutch (custom made)
s-10 Pressure plate (1450 lbs clamp force)
3" intake tube with bullet filter
Now running stock/-13* timming
made dog bone (attached to steel bracket not to aluminum p/s bracket)
made solid cradle mounts
and several suspension mods\\

that's about it.

Had alot of help here dispite my experience moding cars.

Thanks to those who helped me....
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