Are paddle shifters for an LQ1 possible? I'm not rly sure what trans have been used for LQ1 swaps other than just getrag 5 speed and Muncie 4 speeds that come with the fieros (as opposed to most 3800 swappers using 4T.... trans, which iv seen a paddle shifting kit for somewhere)
The majority of 3.4 DOHC's came with 4T60-E HD's and in 97, they came with 4T65-E HD's. I forget, maybe 96 also got the 65. Either way, if it is a manual, you can write off paddle shifting, unless you have an exotic transmission purpose built for it.
For us, if its a fully electronic automatic, then it is capable of being a paddle shift if you can find the controller for it, or re-program the ECM, and add inputs to control the shifting, Only a handful of people are capable of reprogramming the ECM to do the dirty work.
Ok so the kit I saw I think was for those 4T... auto trans's. How do u guys think a paddle shifter auto and a 3.4 would work together? Iv seen many times on the forum that the 3.4 dohc works best with a manual but u could still downshift with paddleshifters, anyway if u guys don't mind I'd like some opinions...
Also, trying to get a relative comparison of the 3.4 dohc to that of a 3800 (no flaming), what are the weights of each of these engines? Fully fitted and ready to go.
To use paddle shifters, you install a transmission controller for the electronic series transmission and set the switches at the steering wheel. There will be more control over the shift points, but the torque would still go through a torque converter, and feel mushy below 3000 rpm.
To use paddle shifters, you install a transmission controller for the electronic series transmission and set the switches at the steering wheel. There will be more control over the shift points, but the torque would still go through a torque converter, and feel mushy below 3000 rpm.
What do the 3800 + auto trans people do about this? May possibly be a stupid question. But it can't affect them that much since most of the most powerful and fastest fieros on the forum are autos. EDIT: Or do they just go with autos for the faster shifting rather than a manual (just for drag racing), and the tq converter allows the trans to handle more power and not go through trans's so much and killing clutches with too much power...?
Also, does anyone happen to have those engine weights?
ADD: the 3.4 dohc is also the easier swap than the 3800 too correct? And the easiest besides the 3.4 PR and 3xxx series engines too correct?
[This message has been edited by HausFiero (edited 12-31-2010).]
Hi 3.4 DOHC Experts I have a question directed to those that have installed a new crate engine. I have been working on this for about 5 months and put the engine in the car to test my wiring and fuel line for leaks. The wiring is good and there were no fuel leaks, the best part the engine runs. The bad is there is no oil pressure readings, I tested the sensor wiring and with resistors I have readings. I think my problem is the block is not drilled completely. Do I need to drill into the oil passage? I have the sensor in the 1/4" pipe threaded hole just above the oil filter which I believe is correct but close inspection shows no opening in the seat of the hole to the oil passage. I am installing the engine into my 88 Coupe to replace the 187,000 mile weak Duke. For the minute or so I had it running I think I will be very happy. Still need to dress up the wiring and add the AIR emission parts to make it legal in California. Hopefully it will be on the road in April. Photos soon! Thanks for your assistance Larry
Try relocating your oil pressure sensor to the location of the oil pressure "switch" that came on the crate engine. Is a stubby looking sensor to the right of the oil filter.
[This message has been edited by The Aura (edited 03-05-2011).]
Hi 3.4 DOHC Experts I have a question directed to those that have installed a new crate engine. I have been working on this for about 5 months and put the engine in the car to test my wiring and fuel line for leaks. The wiring is good and there were no fuel leaks, the best part the engine runs. The bad is there is no oil pressure readings, I tested the sensor wiring and with resistors I have readings. I think my problem is the block is not drilled completely. Do I need to drill into the oil passage? I have the sensor in the 1/4" pipe threaded hole just above the oil filter which I believe is correct but close inspection shows no opening in the seat of the hole to the oil passage. I am installing the engine into my 88 Coupe to replace the 187,000 mile weak Duke. For the minute or so I had it running I think I will be very happy. Still need to dress up the wiring and add the AIR emission parts to make it legal in California. Hopefully it will be on the road in April. Photos soon! Thanks for your assistance Larry
Get the factory DOHC oil cooler which has the threaded hole for a oil pressure sensor. It also serves as a mount for the oil filter. BTW I just installed the new crate engine in one of my Fieros and it runs fantastic, hell of a deal for 300.00
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 03-05-2011).]
Any special advise for priming the new crate engine or did you just hook it up and twist the key?
Yes take out all the spark plugs and squirt some oil in each cylinder. Keep the spark plugs out to keep pressure off the rod bearings. Then fill the oil filter with oil and of course the oil pan too. Remove a valve cover and then turn it over in 10 second intervals untill you see oil start flowing around the cams. Then you should be good on the priming.
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 03-05-2011).]
Hi all just got a 3.4 crate for cheap and im excited to put it in and from reading those posts especially the successful ones. The block I got is a 96-97 lq1 and plan on making it obd1 any suggestions and what harness works the best or if its possible to use a 96-97 harness with a couple mods. Will it work on a lumina computer cause they are available from autozone for 75 bucks rather than buying one from a junk yard it might be money well spent. As forexhaust any ideas to try and make it equal length dual exhaust? Love this engine and love this car together would be harmony lol thanks in advance
Erik, Thanks for the advice, I was looking at one at the recycling yard but it was getting dark and didn't take it. Will have to return for more items anyway.
Aura, as shown in this photo there is not a sensor or switch installed on the new engine. I tried to use the 1/4" NPT hole just above the oil filter. I suppose that one of the 1/4" plugs is into the oil passages. Thanks for the help
Larry
Other photos of the progress: New Clutch
Test Fit into the engine bay
Exhaust Y pipe. First welding I have done in about 45 years.
So, I have get a factory oil cooler so my oil pressure gauge will work? There isn't a hole on the block I can simply screw the sending unit into? How is everyone else doing it? Are they?
Just when I thought I had this whole DOHC swap thing figured out...
Also- can I use the stock battery tray in the stock location with the DOHC motor? I don't like the idea of having the battery under the spare or under the headlight. I just want to keep this as stock and trouble free as possible (with a non-stock engine, of course )
Try relocating your oil pressure sensor to the location of the oil pressure "switch" that came on the crate engine. Is a stubby looking sensor to the right of the oil filter.
Hmmm my crate engine had a threaded plug there to the right of the oil filter boss. It is a tap into the water jacket for the factory oil cooler which uses coolant circulating through it to cool the oil. The correct tap for an oil pressure sensor is at the 11 o'clock position just outside of the oil filter boss.
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 03-07-2011).]
So, I have get a factory oil cooler so my oil pressure gauge will work? There isn't a hole on the block I can simply screw the sending unit into? How is everyone else doing it?
Also- can I use the stock battery tray in the stock location with the DOHC motor? I don't like the idea of having the battery under the spare or under the headlight. I just want to keep this as stock and trouble free as possible (with a non-stock engine, of course )
there should be a tap for an oil pressure sensor at the 11 o'clock position just outside of the oil filter boss. Yes you can keep the battery in the stock location
So, I have get a factory oil cooler so my oil pressure gauge will work? There isn't a hole on the block I can simply screw the sending unit into? How is everyone else doing it? Are they?
Just when I thought I had this whole DOHC swap thing figured out...
Also- can I use the stock battery tray in the stock location with the DOHC motor? I don't like the idea of having the battery under the spare or under the headlight. I just want to keep this as stock and trouble free as possible (with a non-stock engine, of course )
We each have done our swaps differant. In my case, I wanted to move my batt up front, so I had a perfect area for my Coil Pack and ECM. My motor was a 96, and I could not keep my Coil Pack in the stock location without a huge "notch" in the decklid. 91-95 motors can probably use the stock location. And if you don't have an issue with the wires, you can make them as long as you need to put the ECM in the stock location under the Center console. If I was doing another DOHC swap, I would also make some changes to the way I did it. Live and learn. And have fun.
Newer member here, planning a 3.4 swap into my 88 GT pretty soon. Wondering if anybody has any info on the exhaust layout used on the 89 prototype Fiero. Did that car have headers, and was the exhaust routed the same way as a 2.8?
Just got my wiring harness from a 95 lumina anyone have a good wiring diagram needed for the swap and colors would be nice also have the computer aswell from that car next is I have the 96 block and need the lower intake and upper is the ones from the 95 able to bolt to the 96 block I know they are different and 96-97 intakes better for airflow but at this time nothing but that one is in the junk yard. Also what sensors are needed off the upper engine
One of my friends purchased one of the create motors off ebay (93 long block) He has a 96 junkyard motor for parts and such. He noticed that on the 93 there is nothing for the oil pressure sending unit? Is there a adaptor or pedestal on the 96?
------------------ Red 1988 GT 5 speed Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered LQ1 powered
Have you tried this in the car? You might find that down pipe interferes with the hard hook up point for the a/c.
This is how mine was:
Biggest mistake I made was cutting the a/c lines and trying to connect under the car using a variety of couplings etc. Never did get it to seal properly.
Dave, I have had it in the car to test my wiring and fuel lines for leaks. I think the A/C will connect but I am not sure how it will actually fit up. The tubes connected to the compressor are from a 94 Lumina and I bent them just to see if it would not interfere with the cat and oil filter. The exhaust from the Y to the rear has not been changed from the stock Duke exhaust yet. I intend to run 2.5" pipe but I want to have it done professionally. Thanks for looking at my project,
If it is still the stick ex pipe then you should be ok. I know mine interfered but I did mine all custom and obviously went to far out.
Interesting routing of the cross over. Looks a lot easier then the 'close in' routing I did.
Does that oil dipstick still go top the stock location on the block. It must bend some if it does. How hard is it to get the stick in (out is not so much an issue). Mine went over the top and I had to make a dipstick out of some steel cable because I could not get the real on in there.
Also, on mine I cut off that big cast dog bone bracket, just leaving the engine hoist point. Couldn't see the point i having it in the way.
Also, use caution with the fuel lines, on my setup (which was very similar) I had run the fuel lines before the exhaust, then had to change it all after the exhaust was put on.
Dave, The oil dipstick I originally bent to the shown location. I was unhappy because it would have burnt my fingers when the exhaust is hot. Last week I removed the motor lift mount and rebent the dipstick tube to be between the cam cover/head and coolant tube. It is easier to reach and slides in/out easier also.
L67, I have hard fuel lines bent to come out near where the vapor canister was - I am relocating it to the battery location, battery to the front. During my test run the rubber fuel lines cleared the crossover ok but the hoses were too long also. As the project gets closer to completion the crossover will be wrapped in header wrap and the fuel lines in reflective insulation.
Hi I now have a 3.4 dohc that was a fiero drop out from cypres wiring harness and all it will be run in stock forum for now it is a 1995 i am wondering about the cam timing is this worth doing how about cutting the heads for more compression or just port matching to gaskets how much power are headers worth thanks guys and i should have it up and running in a few weeks not much time to work on it at a friends shop
Hello, Is the exhaust donut and flange fromt the stock fiero v6 headpipe the same size as the one used on the stock 92 manifolds. I'm looking for the flange to use to connect to my custom exhaust, using stock 3.4 dohc manifolds and crossover pipe and need a flange.
[This message has been edited by The Aura (edited 05-17-2011).]
OK guy's need help i bought cypres 3.4 dohc setup and not sure about the coil pack it has provision for three different plugs but i only have 2 that fit it one is a 6 pin and the other a 2 pin but i don't seem to have a 3 pin that fits is this the norm and how did you do your throttle cable and all hoses thanks for the help
New Clutch
Test Fit into the engine bay
Exhaust Y pipe. First welding I have done in about 45 years. 
