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Any and all things 3.4 DOHC........... by pavo_roddy
Started on: 11-22-2006 12:30 AM
Replies: 1236 (63868 views)
Last post by: Raydar on 01-11-2021 07:06 AM
Emc209i
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Report this Post06-18-2008 01:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Emc209iClick Here to Email Emc209iSend a Private Message to Emc209iEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fierobsessed:

Another question...

Why does the tensioner have a lot of oil in it?


It's supposed to. The timing procedure calls for refilling it with 5w-30 synthetic when compressed. According to this, overfilling it is a bad thing. lol. I can imagine.
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Report this Post06-18-2008 01:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well I reset the timming back to stock....I do have more torque but does feel likei lost some on the peak end. Steven....your right, there is more useable torque thoughtout the powerband. Unfortunatly now it takes longer to pass on the highway. Now thats ok, the idle is smoother which i expected, I just hope the MPG go up. The ignition miss is more obvious now thanbefore.

Now I'm looking into modding the ignition to smooth out the power and burn the fuel completely.

Overall I'm not sure if there is an advantae for the 13*- but can say I did gain power on the low end and lost power on the top end.

Any one have any ignition ideas? I will be cleaning the plugs and replacing the module and coil packs.
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Report this Post06-18-2008 11:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by procarnut:

Well I reset the timming back to stock....I do have more torque but does feel likei lost some on the peak end. Steven....your right, there is more useable torque thoughtout the powerband. Unfortunatly now it takes longer to pass on the highway. Now thats ok, the idle is smoother which i expected, I just hope the MPG go up. The ignition miss is more obvious now thanbefore.

Now I'm looking into modding the ignition to smooth out the power and burn the fuel completely.

Overall I'm not sure if there is an advantae for the 13*- but can say I did gain power on the low end and lost power on the top end.

Any one have any ignition ideas? I will be cleaning the plugs and replacing the module and coil packs.



The best ignition upgrade for a naturally asperated engine is low resistance spark plug wires. You want wires with about 50 ohm/ft resistance. Stock plug wires are usually around 3000 ohm/ft resistance. Summit racing has some low resistance Taylor wires pretty cheap:

http://store.summitracing.c...594+115&autoview=sku

and

http://store.summitracing.c...594+115&autoview=sku


Although I don't know why one set is $51 and the other $74? I guess summit will have to answer that one. Other upgrades beyond better wires will give little or no benefit.
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Report this Post06-18-2008 01:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:
Sounds like you need a sump pump. They are not hard to put in yourself. Just find the lowest corner of your basement and cut a hole in the floor the right size for the pump. Install the pump and put a grate over it. Then it will automatically pump water out of your basement every time water goes into the hole and it will keep your basement dry. Here is a $50 pump that you can use for this purpose:

http://www.harborfreight.co...taf?Itemnumber=93819

You can also go into even more complex basement drainage plans by cutting channels into your basement floor going to the sump pump and then covering the channels with either concrete strips or long thin grates.

Thanks for the suggestion but I have a sump pump, 2 in fact ..the flooding was so much it overwhelmed the system so I got water in the basement over and over and over ..its never been this bad ..finally its all dried out and I actually was able to mow my yard today ..all 2 1/2 acres that is grass without getting stuck in the mud a swell as being able to finally weed my garden which really suffered from all the rain

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 06-18-2008).]

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Report this Post06-18-2008 01:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Erik:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Doug85GT:
Sounds like you need a sump pump. They are not hard to put in yourself. Just find the lowest corner of your basement and cut a hole in the floor the right size for the pump. Install the pump and put a grate over it. Then it will automatically pump water out of your basement every time water goes into the hole and it will keep your basement dry. Here is a $50 pump that you can use for this purpose:

http://www.harborfreight.co...taf?Itemnumber=93819

You can also go into even more complex basement drainage plans by cutting channels into your basement floor going to the sump pump and then covering the channels with either concrete strips or long thin grates.

Thanks for the suggestion but I have a sump pump, 2 in fact ..the flooding was so much it overwhelmed the system so I got water in the basement over and over and over ..its never been this bad ..finally its all dried out and I actually was able to mow my yard today ..all 2 1/2 acres that is grass without getting stuck in the mud a swell as being able to finally weed my garden which really suffered from all the rain

[/QUOTE]


Wow. Sounds like you needed Moses to part the waters in your basement. I'm glad things are better now. The water table is too high here to have a basement but I guess that may be a good thing.
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Report this Post06-18-2008 02:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:
Wow. Sounds like you needed Moses to part the waters in your basement. I'm glad things are better now. The water table is too high here to have a basement but I guess that may be a good thing.


whats really funny is the ground is kind of hardbaked and dry in the top 1 inch ! After all that ! My basement is only 4 ft deep into the gorund I REALLY feel sorry for those with a full basemtn..like my sister of which I also had to deal with ...
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Report this Post06-18-2008 03:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:
The best ignition upgrade for a naturally asperated engine is low resistance spark plug wires. You want wires with about 50 ohm/ft resistance. Stock plug wires are usually around 3000 ohm/ft resistance. Summit racing has some low resistance Taylor wires pretty cheap:

http://store.summitracing.c...594+115&autoview=sku

and

http://store.summitracing.c...594+115&autoview=sku


Although I don't know why one set is $51 and the other $74? I guess summit will have to answer that one. Other upgrades beyond better wires will give little or no benefit.


I'm running Accel Super Stock Spiral wire. I just replaced them under warranty but mainly for asthetic reasons. Not sure what ohm ratings they are but seem good. I wanting to replace the coils since they are original.

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Report this Post06-18-2008 04:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, I am going to put a 96-97 intake on my 92 engine and have mounted the TB directly on the intake plenum..anybody else done this? If so did you notice a difference in powerband?
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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post06-18-2008 05:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:

Although I don't know why one set is $51 and the other $74? I guess summit will have to answer that one. Other upgrades beyond better wires will give little or no benefit.


The cheeper set is not for the 3.4 DOHC, its for the 2.8's and 3.1's.
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quote
Originally posted by Erik:

Well, I am going to put a 96-97 intake on my 92 engine and have mounted the TB directly on the intake plenum..anybody else done this? If so did you notice a difference in powerband?


Erik I have a 96-97 intake for sale if you haven't already found one.
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Report this Post06-18-2008 07:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Emc209i:


Erik I have a 96-97 intake for sale if you haven't already found one.

Thanks for the heads up but I have several already. I have the stock 96 -97 DOHC TB mounted to the intake, eliminating the intake arm and am sure it will increase throttle responce and hopefully breethe a bit better on the top end
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Report this Post06-18-2008 10:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
FYI, all the the wiring and vacuum diagram links on the first page are dead. Luckily I have all of the diagrams that I need saved on my work computer but other users may still need them.
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Report this Post06-19-2008 03:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Emc209iClick Here to Email Emc209iSend a Private Message to Emc209iEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes I know. Apparently Ryan got in trouble for having them online. I have several saved on a hard drive. Let me know if you need any of them, and I'll try to get you what I can.
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Report this Post06-19-2008 05:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I regret not downloading ALL the diagrams and pinouts before they disappeared. But I got a LOT of them
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Report this Post06-19-2008 10:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Erik:

Well, I am going to put a 96-97 intake on my 92 engine and have mounted the TB directly on the intake plenum..anybody else done this? If so did you notice a difference in powerband?



I'm not sure if you will notice much of a difference. The intake runners will be the same length and you are not changing the size of the surge tank. Reducing the distance of the throttle body should give you slightly better throttle response, but I don't know if it will even be noticable. In order to have a real effect, you would have to either modify the intake manifold or build a new one.
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Report this Post06-19-2008 02:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:
I'm not sure if you will notice much of a difference. The intake runners will be the same length and you are not changing the size of the surge tank. Reducing the distance of the throttle body should give you slightly better throttle response, but I don't know if it will even be noticable. In order to have a real effect, you would have to either modify the intake manifold or build a new one.


Surge tank? I am assuming you mean the plenum which appears to be bigger than the 91-93 intake. It should breathe better than the 91-93 intake due to the restriction on that manifold.

I am using a stock TB so, perhaps I won't notice much difference unless I step up to a larger TB which might reduce lowend torque ..From looking at the manifold intake arm and how it transitions to the intake plenum, it appears there is a some what of a contradiction in airflow velocity wise as the TB end of it is smaller and gradually increases in volume to the other end that attaches to the plenum. Which makes me think GM designed it as a extention to the plenum to add volume and due to space constraints in the W body

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 06-19-2008).]

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Report this Post06-19-2008 03:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Erik:


Surge tank? I am assuming you mean the plenum which appears to be bigger than the 91-93 intake. It should breathe better than the 91-93 intake due to the restriction on that manifold.

I am using a stock TB so, perhaps I won't notice much difference unless I step up to a larger TB which might reduce lowend torque ..From looking at the manifold intake arm and how it transitions to the intake plenum, it appears there is a some what of a contradiction in airflow velocity wise as the TB end of it is smaller and gradually increases in volume to the other end that attaches to the plenum. Which makes me think GM designed it as a extention to the plenum to add volume and due to space constraints in the W body




Some people refer to it as a surge tank and others a plenum. It is the part of the intake manifold that holds the air that multiple cylinders draw from. I will call it a plenum for clarity.

I am not sure if the intake arm can be considered part of the plenum. If it is, then removing it makes the plenum smaller. A smaller plenum means higher air velocity at low rpm but choked off power on the high end.
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Report this Post06-20-2008 01:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
here is the TB mounted ..the plenum is bigger than the 91-93 so it should to flow better in the higher rpms
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Report this Post06-20-2008 06:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not to mention you will see top end gains from an overall better design and larger/shorter runners.
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Report this Post06-22-2008 05:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well...how did it turn out?

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Report this Post06-23-2008 12:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bluefieroClick Here to Email bluefieroSend a Private Message to bluefieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've got a 95 3.4 DOHC with the 96-97 intake swap on it and am looking to put cruise control on it. Am thinking about taking it from Illinois to Arizona for this coming school year so it would be really nice to have cruise traveling those 1,000 some miles. Would anyone be able to help me put together a parts list of the things I would need to make this happen?

Thanks
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Report this Post06-23-2008 02:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by bluefiero:

I've got a 95 3.4 DOHC with the 96-97 intake swap on it and am looking to put cruise control on it. Am thinking about taking it from Illinois to Arizona for this coming school year so it would be really nice to have cruise traveling those 1,000 some miles. Would anyone be able to help me put together a parts list of the things I would need to make this happen?

Thanks



Probably the best and easiest thing to do rather than get a list of parts is to go to a Pick-N-Pull, find a 3.4 DOHC engine with cruise control on it and take all the parts that are connected to the system.

If you walk into an autozone or a standard dismantler with a parts list, you will always end up missing the small things such as fasteners, nuts, bolts, brackets and wiring that are obvious when you are pulling the parts off the car.
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Report this Post06-23-2008 03:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Emc209iClick Here to Email Emc209iSend a Private Message to Emc209iEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah, just pick up a 95 or later dohc with the electronic controller. It's computer controlled, so all you have to do it wire in the brake switch. And of course the cruise controls from the front.

[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 06-23-2008).]

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Report this Post06-25-2008 12:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bluefieroClick Here to Email bluefieroSend a Private Message to bluefieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Emc209i:

Yeah, just pick up a 95 or later dohc with the electronic controller. It's computer controlled, so all you have to do it wire in the brake switch. And of course the cruise controls from the front.



I just talked to one yard, they said they had a 95 monte carlo there with the cruise still intact. $60 plus tax for it. He said it wasn't a 3.4 dohc though and it didn't need to be. Is this true?
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Report this Post06-25-2008 11:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Has anyone come up with a good idea for the front plug wells? I mean boots flexable to fit into motor without dropping it.

I took the originals and cut them in half. I thook a rubber boor and silicone it to the upper half. So when I install the lower boot, I just slide the upper boot over it.

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Report this Post06-25-2008 11:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Emc209iClick Here to Email Emc209iSend a Private Message to Emc209iEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by bluefiero:


I just talked to one yard, they said they had a 95 monte carlo there with the cruise still intact. $60 plus tax for it. He said it wasn't a 3.4 dohc though and it didn't need to be. Is this true?


It should work fine. They are all pretty much the same in all W-bodies. Here's a picture of what you need:


Although I'll say, that's a high price for the unit.

These well help you with the wiring from the cruise stalk and brake switch. Save them as soon as you can before they get deleted.
http://dtcc.cz28.com/files/electcrz.zip

------------------

_______________1988 Pontiac Fiero: Formula/GT - 3.4 DOHC - 5 Speed_______________

[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 06-25-2008).]

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Report this Post06-25-2008 11:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Emc209iClick Here to Email Emc209iSend a Private Message to Emc209iEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Emc209i

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quote
Originally posted by procarnut:

Has anyone come up with a good idea for the front plug wells? I mean boots flexable to fit into motor without dropping it.

I took the originals and cut them in half. I thook a rubber boor and silicone it to the upper half. So when I install the lower boot, I just slide the upper boot over it.


No, and it's bugging me. I'm trying to find a source for the chimney flue material Kohburn used between the trunk and decklid.. still nothing. Greasing the o-rings isn't enough.
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Report this Post06-26-2008 02:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I can't wash my car without a mis-fire. I used roof flashing like a gutter but it has limits. I think I am going to make something else for the water run off.

I got tired of lowering the motor to pull the front plug boots out. I was thinking of making a flexable metalic core boot that would snap to a 90* terminal. Just not comming up with good flexable insulators that will withstand the heat.
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Report this Post06-26-2008 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gt88normSend a Private Message to gt88normEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Emc209i:
It should work fine. They are all pretty much the same in all W-bodies.
These well help you with the wiring from the cruise stalk and brake switch. Save them as soon as you can before they get deleted.
http://dtcc.cz28.com/files/electcrz.zip

THANK-YOU

Norm
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Report this Post06-29-2008 11:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok here is ashort versionof what is going on.

Car had misfire under load....one or two cyl. Now like total momentary shut off and then back....Bucks like a horse.

First I replaced all the plugs....still mis-fired. Then the coil pack and Module....still mis-fired and bucks at 4500rpms.

replaced wires...misfire gone but now bucks and kicks. SO I'm thinking new module is bad. I went through this with a friend and the module solved it. I guess I will have to swap module and see what happens.

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Report this Post06-30-2008 12:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by procarnut:

Ok here is ashort versionof what is going on.

Car had misfire under load....one or two cyl. Now like total momentary shut off and then back....Bucks like a horse.

First I replaced all the plugs....still mis-fired. Then the coil pack and Module....still mis-fired and bucks at 4500rpms.

replaced wires...misfire gone but now bucks and kicks. SO I'm thinking new module is bad. I went through this with a friend and the module solved it. I guess I will have to swap module and see what happens.


Before you do that, check your wiring to your crank angle sensor. If any of the wiring to the sensor is loose or if water fouled it, then it may have the same effect.

Also, one solution to your front plugs is to use a 94 or newer valve cover and spark plug boots to go with it. The 94+ valve covers has a lip on it that the boot snaps into sealing it completely from water entering.

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Report this Post06-30-2008 01:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for procarnutClick Here to Email procarnutSend a Private Message to procarnutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well I swapped my module and that fixed the problem. I help a friends out with this same situation before. I thought that might do it. Fortunatly it was the problem. So tomorrow I have to convence the part store that it's a defective part. Being electrical, I might have a problem. Anyway I'm happy with how it turned out. Runs great. I just think it should have more power.......

I did get the wires and plug wells sealed up good. I'll have to post pictures later explaining what did.

Doug, thanks for the advice.

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Report this Post06-30-2008 08:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sspeedstreetClick Here to Email sspeedstreetSend a Private Message to sspeedstreetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I posted a request in the mall for this and had no replies, so I'm here. I need an EGR tube for a 1991 - 1995 3.4 DOHC motor. Anyone have a spare?

Thanks.

------------------
1988 GT, 5-speed, white, beechwood leather, 3.4 DOHC 6-speed installation in process. Really. I am working on it.

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Fierobsessed
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Report this Post06-30-2008 09:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know it isn't what you are looking for, but I did my own thing with the EGR tube for my swap.

I ran a -6 (3/8") NPT Tap into the EGR manifold and screwed in a 3/8" flare fitting (45 degree flare)

On the other end I welded a 1/2" bung to my crossover with another flare fitting in it.

The tube itself is a 6" long 3/8" stainless Gas hose, I stripped all the yellow paint off of it.

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Erik
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Report this Post07-01-2008 12:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Erik:

here is the TB mounted ..the plenum is bigger than the 91-93 so it should to flow better in the higher rpms


I am having an off idle hesitation/ stumble with the modded intake..not sure if it's due to the configuration meaning it might be too big of a plenun or perhaps the injectors .They were sticking at first from setting for at least 2 yrs so, I am running techron through them and if that doesn't get rid of the stumble the next step is to swap out the injectors with my previous intake which had good injectors.

Even so, it sounds different on the top end and really comes alive as it catapults towards the rev limit

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 07-01-2008).]

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Erik
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Report this Post07-02-2008 03:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
well the conclusion is that the modded intake rocks! I had a weak pump ..only 30 psi and a partially clogged filter ..its funny that the weak pump and filter decided to announce itself after I changed the intake ..it seeemd to run ok before the intake swap. I figure without datalogging that the new freer flowing intake made it run more lean and the ECM could not keep up with fuel demands
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CC Rider
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Report this Post07-03-2008 10:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CC RiderClick Here to Email CC RiderSend a Private Message to CC RiderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So all you did was take the later model and get rid of the neck???
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Erik
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Report this Post07-03-2008 01:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by CC Rider:

So all you did was take the later model and get rid of the neck???

Yes. I made an adapter plate for the throttle body
..note it has more pull down low as well as topend ..I am very pleased with it

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 07-03-2008).]

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CC Rider
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Report this Post07-03-2008 02:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CC RiderClick Here to Email CC RiderSend a Private Message to CC RiderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Cool - I have one in the backyard so time to play
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Doug85GT
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Report this Post07-11-2008 03:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Doug85GTSend a Private Message to Doug85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a question about space in the engine bay and the exhaust. I saw this photo from another build thread:



Will this fit as is or would it require cutting the trunk?
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