Hi Guys,

these engines seem too good to pass up... brand new with flywheel and oh soooo cheap!

I wonder if the seals and timing belt would need replacement from sitting for 16+ years...

Anyways what do you guys think, too good of a deal to pass up or too much work to make it usable?

By the way he has about 20 of these engines if anyone is interested.

Almost forgot the link:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Chevrole...sories#ht_500wt_1154

wow, great deal

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Turbo 3800 E85 5spd spec5
11.53@126.7

oh man... How is this possible? I almost wish I hadn't just swapped in my 3800 .

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If I didnt already have a spare 96 engine I woudl take a trip and pick one up ..hell of a deal for an engine that was meant for the Fiero

Yes I am very tempted just needs an upper and Lower intake, fuel rail, throttle body, ex manifolds and of course wiring harness and computer. All easily sourced from a wrecker.

I am seriously thinking about intentionally blowing up my 3.4 so that can justify this one.

The 3.4TDC doesn't really develop significant horsepower until about 3500 RPM. In the low RPM ranges they feel like like a 3.4L P/R engine but when they get in the upper RPM band they scream. A turbo is also a good idea to wake this engine up. After sitting 16 years in a crate its hard to know what to expect. Not only will seals be suspect but cylcinder walls could be rusted and the bearings may have developed a flat spot.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: The 3.4TDC doesn't really develop significant horsepower until about 3500 RPM. In the low RPM ranges they feel like like a 3.4L P/R engine but when they get in the upper RPM band they scream. A turbo is also a good idea to wake this engine up. After sitting 16 years in a crate its hard to know what to expect. Not only will seals be suspect but cylcinder walls could be rusted and the bearings may have developed a flat spot.

Here you go again with the DOHC fear mongering, Dennis. Its quite obvious Dennis has not owned a DOHC Fiero.
The engine doesnt need to be waked up, it screams in stock form and makes the 1st gear in Fiero manual trans usable with its stock 7000 rpm.
I can launch at 1500 rpm and absolutely smoke the tires or, get the dig on many much newer high performance cars from a stop light.

The engine is in the crate wrapped up and contains manufacturer's assembly crankcase oil. Bearings developing a flat spot from sitting? Thats a new one ..hahaha

I would highly recommend priming the oiling sytem before attempting to start the engine and turn it over without sparkplugs after squiting some oil in each cylinder then checking compression on each cylinder ..everything should be fine being a new engine that has been wrapped in plastic in crate in a ware house ..I've looked at some of the sellers feedback of those who have bought the engines and they have given positive ratings

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-20-2010).]

WOW, its almost worth getting one to have on the shelf. I have two sets of 96-97 "conversion" stuff to put on the 91-95 motors.

Great link

Rob
.

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88 Coupe, CJB T-TOP, 1996 3.4 DOHC and a GT clip

Well, I bought it. Too good to pass up.

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62 Buick Special
86 GT, 5-Speed
87 GT, 3.4l DOHC Turbo 415 WHP, 11.9 @ 118
88 Toyota Supra Turbo

Keep us posted how it turns out...

quote Originally posted by Erik: Here you go again with the DOHC fear mongering, Dennis. Its quite obvious Dennis has not owned a DOHC Fiero. The engine doesnt need to be waked up, it screams in stock form and makes the 1st gear in Fiero manual trans usable with its stock 7000 rpm. I can launch at 1500 rpm and absolutely smoke the tires or, get the dig on many much newer high performance cars from a stop light. The engine is in the crate wrapped up and contains manufacturer's assembly crankcase oil. Bearings developing a flat spot from sitting? Thats a new one ..hahaha I would highly recommend priming the oiling sytem before attempting to start the engine and turn it over without sparkplugs after squiting some oil in each cylinder then checking compression on each cylinder ..everything should be fine being a new engine that has been wrapped in plastic in crate in a ware house ..I've looked at some of the sellers feedback of those who have bought the engines and they have given positive ratings

I've rode in a 3.4TDC and it was weak off the line. This is typical of engines with DOHC.s and my daily driver Chrysler also has one. It behaves the same way. You've got to get the revs up to make power. Do a dyno test and see how much horsepower you develop to 3500 RPM. Its not fear mongering. It is just the nature of these types of engines. They are designed to make their power in the upper RPM ranges. Trouble is that if you operate there frequently a DOHC engine gulps gas like crazy.
As for crankshaft bearing flat spots developing; they occur the same way tire flat spots occur- in long term storage from sittiing and not turning. Don't believe me. Do some research on bearing storage or ask a bearing company or engine rebuilder and see for your self.
The engine on eBay is probably a good deal but I woukld have reservations on any engine sitting for 16 years. You mean to tell us that you don't?

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by The Aura: By the way he has about 20 of these engines if anyone is interested. Almost forgot the link: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Chevrole...sories#ht_500wt_1154

Is he listing them one at a time or something? I don't see any others.

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: I've rode in a 3.4TDC and it was weak off the line. This is typical of engines with DOHC.s and my daily driver Chrysler also has one. It behaves the same way. You've got to get the revs up to make power. Do a dyno test and see how much horsepower you develop to 3500 RPM. Its not fear mongering. It is just the nature of these types of engines. They are designed to make their power in the upper RPM ranges. Trouble is that if you operate there frequently a DOHC engine gulps gas like crazy. As for crankshaft bearing flat spots developing; they occur the same way tire flat spots occur- in long term storage from sittiing and not turning. Don't believe me. Do some research on bearing storage or ask a bearing company or engine rebuilder and see for your self. The engine on eBay is probably a good deal but I woukld have reservations on any engine sitting for 16 years. You mean to tell us that you don't?

Dennis is it fearmongering when you constantly chime in with your negative opinions of the DOHC every time it is mentioned in a thread title casting doubt abotu the viability of the DOHC.

What did you ride in ,, the w body it came with an auto? ..then I would say yes it isnt exactly a dragstrip star with a heavy body to haul around and an crappy geared auto.
The N* is a DOHC and it is anything but weak off the line even in a heavy caddy it came in but it has about 85 ft lbs more torque than the DOHC.
Nothing that proper gearing wont take care of to match the high rev powerband.


I drive a DOHC Fiero every day and it is anything but weak off the line. As mentioned it will pull on much newer highperformance cars from a dig and launches effortlessly from 1500 rpms
It gets 25 mpg with spirited driving, 20 if I am constantly ragging on it and if I am very conservative it can get 30 mph.


I have no reservations about buying a new crate motor that has been packeaged and stored by a seller with great feedback on the item

As far as the flat bearings from sitting ..you are going to have to provide some proof becasue I havent found anything of the sort from asearch on the net ...I deal with machinists engine builders for decades and have never heard of flat main or rod bearings from sitting

My car is up on jack stands, waiting to put my rebuild Getrag back in. This would have been a great time to swap to the DOHC, but I guess I'm to late hearing about it. That is a fantastic deal, even with the $175 shipping. Hope you all enjoy them that got'm!

Unfortunately Denis is correct,,tho the problem is more related to the upper valve train.; running in easy will take care of crank & rod bearings..& rust in cylinders ,,unless really bad..I have resurrected old British MotorBikes
The valve ,springs ,cam caps can be stressed weakened or have a flat spot,, there would have been more stress and pressure on some valve train parts..
WOW ??I want one with a deep passion, exploding in my heart,,smothering my desire for a hi MPG G.T.duke..hooked up to a grand prix slush box,great MPG..
.. I would replace the main crankseals ,pull the valve covers,close observation of cam & springs that were compressed,Id take a chance on the belts.I am not certain the cams are belt driven..
...This post is based on my 50 years as a gear head & many years as an unwashed kept scooter mechanic ..

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 08-21-2010).]

If he has more, I may have to buy one. Having a spare (even an old motor) may be good insureance.

If I were to buy one, do any of you know the best source to purchase the rest to complete the package (manifolds, headers, fuel injection, computer, etc)? Also, who is the best source for aftermarket performance parts...Jegs maybe?

Buying a car or engine from a junkyard would get you the accessories you need. I don't know that starting with just this engine would be cost effective for a swap. The other parts needed could nickel and dime you to death.

There are no real performance parts available for this engine. Cam timing changes and custom exhaust are your only options.

These are factory crate engines and are packaged with storage in mind. They should be good to go unless they were stored outside. I am thinking seriously about picking one up in person. Have contacted the guy and am only 2.5 hours away from him. Am thinking about taking the V8 out and swapping this in for a backup daily driver. I care less about HP and more about reliability and economy. And I want to drive my Fiero more!

Besides, even with all of the stuff needed to do the swap, $300 for a brand new crate engine is a deal.

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1986 SE 350 V8

I just bought one. I have a used 3.4 DOHC that I paid a $850 with shipping to get. Since I was planning on replacing the timing chain, idler pulley and rod bearings anyway, it seems like a better deal to buy a this cheap brand new engine instead.

quote Originally posted by Matt Hawkins: Buying a car or engine from a junkyard would get you the accessories you need. I don't know that starting with just this engine would be cost effective for a swap. The other parts needed could nickel and dime you to death. There are no real performance parts available for this engine. Cam timing changes and custom exhaust are your only options.

Yeah, these were kind of my thoughts Matt. I'm starting from scratch, so got to come up with lots of other parts to complete the job. I found a naturally aspirated 3800 in a wrecked Grand Prix, with only 58k miiles. I can get the whole car for $500. I prefer a SC II, but at that price and for that mileage....what do you guys think?

Buy the way, I ask the guy selling the DOHC engines (using the link on this thread) and he still has more. You just have to call him.

quote Originally posted by hypo327: Yeah, these were kind of my thoughts Matt. I'm starting from scratch, so got to come up with lots of other parts to complete the job. I found a naturally aspirated 3800 in a wrecked Grand Prix, with only 58k miiles. I can get the whole car for $500. I prefer a SC II, but at that price and for that mileage....what do you guys think? Buy the way, I ask the guy selling the DOHC engines (using the link on this thread) and he still has more. You just have to call him.

If I had to choose between the NA 3800 or the 3.4 DOHC, I would take the 3.4 DOHC any day. The NA 3800 is a good engine but it does not compare to the LQ1. The LQ1 not only gives you more power, but it gives you more rpms to use that power.

In your case, the $500 NA 3800 would be a very cheap upgrade. You would still have to buy or fabricate the engine mounts. In the end you would have an engine that has a lot more miles on it and less power. I am guessing that you would have to put another $500 into the 3800 swap at about $1000 more into the LQ1 swap. So the end difference is about $500, 170 hp vs 210 hp, and 58k miles vs 0 miles. IMO $500 for 40 hp and a brand new engine is cheap.


edit: if the engine is a series II engine, then it has 205 hp. I would still think it is worth the extra $500 for a brand new engine.

[This message has been edited by Doug85GT (edited 08-23-2010).]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by hypo327:

deleted post

[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 08-23-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Matt Hawkins: Buying a car or engine from a junkyard would get you the accessories you need. I don't know that starting with just this engine would be cost effective for a swap. The other parts needed could nickel and dime you to death. There are no real performance parts available for this engine. Cam timing changes and custom exhaust are your only options.

Most yards will charge you extra for all the accessories. But if you want to buy one with 150k that needs rebuilt anyway, because the car was driven with low oil, and it ended up with spun bearings, for $500 instead, that's up to you. You're probably going to get nickel and dimed anyway, if you don't know what you're getting into with any swap.

I'm sure the guy making 430hp with his turboed 3.4 DOHC would disagree with your sentiment on performance. But I guess it depends on what you really want to make out of it. If you want to build a 1000hp rocket out of it, then yeah, I'm sure finding other pistons, rods, and intakes, might be a bit more costly.

quote Originally posted by dobey: ...I'm sure the guy making 430hp with his turboed 3.4 DOHC would disagree with your sentiment on performance...

quote Originally posted by dobey: I'm sure the guy making 430hp with his turboed 3.4 DOHC would disagree with your sentiment on performance. But I guess it depends on what you really want to make out of it. If you want to build a 1000hp rocket out of it, then yeah, I'm sure finding other pistons, rods, and intakes, might be a bit more costly.

Do you know who Matt Hawkins is?

I just got off the phone with that ebay vendor. He is trying to ship my engine today. I might have it by the weekend.

Good deal.

Is a 7730 or 7727 ECM and harness off a 92 3.1 usable if the correct chip is installed?

quote Originally posted by L67: Do you know who Matt Hawkins is?

Priceless LOL dobey fell into his foot mouth first on that one

quote Originally posted by FieroFiend: Priceless LOL dobey fell into his foot mouth first on that one

Not so much? Sorry I can't keep track of who every single member on the forum is and what their cars are.
There are multiple people with turbo dohcs making 400+hp though as far as I know. I've seen multiple cars in videos on Youtube, uploaded from different peole, at least.

quote Originally posted by dobey: Not so much? Sorry I can't keep track of who every single member on the forum is and what their cars are. There are multiple people with turbo dohcs making 400+hp though as far as I know. I've seen multiple cars in videos on Youtube, uploaded from different peole, at least.

It is OK. We all make mistakes.

It is just funny. That is all.

I know of 2, maybe 3. Matt Hawkins is definitely one of them, but the first I knew about. Having a 3.4 DOHC car myself makes it easy to remember which guys are making the hp around here.

(oh yeah, The DOHC car is running again. Look out NTFC!)

[This message has been edited by Jarhead 2m4 (edited 08-23-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: If I had to choose between the NA 3800 or the 3.4 DOHC, I would take the 3.4 DOHC any day. The NA 3800 is a good engine but it does not compare to the LQ1. The LQ1 not only gives you more power, but it gives you more rpms to use that power. In your case, the $500 NA 3800 would be a very cheap upgrade. You would still have to buy or fabricate the engine mounts. In the end you would have an engine that has a lot more miles on it and less power. I am guessing that you would have to put another $500 into the 3800 swap at about $1000 more into the LQ1 swap. So the end difference is about $500, 170 hp vs 210 hp, and 58k miles vs 0 miles. IMO $500 for 40 hp and a brand new engine is cheap. edit: if the engine is a series II engine, then it has 205 hp. I would still think it is worth the extra $500 for a brand new engine.

What I could do, since my 2.8 with 107k on it is running strong, is to buy the long block DOHC, put it on an engine stand, and look for a wrecked car with a shot engine in it, strip everything I need, and go from there. No matter how you look at it, I'd be in it a grand at minimum.

quote Originally posted by Jarhead 2m4: I know of 2, maybe 3. Matt Hawkins is definitely one of them, but the first I knew about. Having a 3.4 DOHC car myself makes it easy to remember which guys are making the hp around here. (oh yeah, The DOHC car is running again. Look out NTFC!)

Is it now?!... great!!! Did it turn out to be that stripped plug?

Going to call the guy today and arrange a meeting to pick one up.

Anybody here have any intakes, throttle bodies, exhaust manifolds, ECM, wiring harness, etc?

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1986 SE 350 V8

quote Originally posted by blakeinspace: Is it now?!... great!!! Did it turn out to be that stripped plug?

That was part of it. The starting problem was described as being something else. It's also being lowered and given new suspension treatment. If all goes according to plan, I should be picking it up Labor Day weekend.