quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: cost?

Well, it started at around $50 But I went over that pretty quick. I think I ended up around $100 - 125 Keep in mind of the stripe, vent covers & mirrors.

-Para

to prime or not to prime?

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: to prime or not to prime?

no need if the paint isn't pealing off or if you haven't sanded down and gotten unever colorations to cover up

I am interested to know the durability of the paint. Stone chips, scratches, etc.

Anyone know?

J.

back on page 2 are the links to the original mopar links. I think the guy that started this has been doing it for serveral years.

hey i was looking through some page it might have been on hear the other day. check this website out. it looks pretty neat to do a vehicle especially a fiero with this type of paint additive.


http://www.paintwithpearl.com/chameleonstore.htm

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well we got basics.. this is just for a test panel...



and all we could get at wally world... might make a trip to Lowes or Home Depot.. $20 something so far...

This is the correct high density foam roller

[This message has been edited by jeffndebrus (edited 02-17-2007).]

quote Originally posted by jeffndebrus: This is the correct high density foam roller

ah... those are also the stubby roolers too im assuming? its ok.. we'll see how these do on our test panel, but we have to go to home depot to get another quart of paint and some sand paper

Little bump to get this back up, and new pictures taken today of my car. What do you people think?




Finaly got the headlight covers back on.

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You never know what will happen next.

http://ParaStatic.sytes.net

Looks good!

That looks really slick! What did you do for the final coat? Some kind of clear coat or somthin?

Mike

Well I did some testing and found that the Rustoleum Spray Enamel Clear High Gloss works wonders. You will get some not so shiny and some shiny spots after a wet sand with just the roller method, and the clear 'really' evens it out. And it adds a little hue to the overall paint color somehow. And it is safer to wet sand, because you can tell if you hit paint or not, by the color of the leftovers. But keeps in mind, it really jacks up the cost of the job. Need about 7 cans of clear to get a good coverage, and you have to work fast either recoat after a few minutes or after 48 hours. And FYI use a very good respirator, I didn't. And I suffered the consequences... All I used was a basic filtration mask, but the fumes will kill ya, I also had kerosene heat and paint thinner smell sin the garage at the time, and nearly passed out. You have been warned! Also if using some mind of fire to heat the garage, it will burn the fumes, making the very toxic. So get it hot before, and work in the temp, and let it cool down and let the particles settle before turning the heater on again. I did not at 'first' and that was a terrible mistake, pretty sure I knocked off a few years of my life. Lol...

-Para

I am thinking about doing this...has anyone failed miserably and wants to own up? So many people seem to be having success. Are you guys taking the panels off or just leaving them on the car? Thanks.
Para that paint job looks pretty freakin slick man. Congrats on a the workmanship.

Thanks for the compliment, the only panels I removed were the headlight covers. Everything else was still mounted on the car. For the tight spaces I used foam brushes. Mine took about.... 5 weeks to do lol, was cold and kerosene heat gets to you after a while. Still in the process of buffing.

looks awesome! ill get to see it up close in April itll be fun stuff

gonna start on Alex's car soon... soon as my visitors leave my brother is visiting and brought his Wii.. cant stop

Yeah I am all ready looking forward to April. Will be awsome to wrench with another PFF member. Will have to start a special build thread for that.

[edit] Tommrow when I clean out my garage, I will take pictures of it with real lighting, and a real camera.

[This message has been edited by ParaStatic (edited 02-20-2007).]

That would be awesome!

Mike

Bump...keep up the good work. Very interested

Okay I have like 14 pics, but they are about 1500 pixils lol... Anyone know of a good program that is small and compact to just do a simple resize?

quote Originally posted by ParaStatic: Okay I have like 14 pics, but they are about 1500 pixils lol... Anyone know of a good program that is small and compact to just do a simple resize?

Mihov's Image Resizer

http://www.mihov.com/eng/ir.html

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1984 Fiero SE

Mmmm Tasty....

nice job.
did you put the black stripe on top of orange? or the other way around?
might i suggest a pinstripe on each side of the center stripe?

i like the black wing, on the colored body. that's how mine will be too.
- - - - -
now that my car has passed its emissions test today(yay!), i can now refocus on my painting and my taillight mod. woo-hoo!
good to see someone buffing up a whole car done this way. i hope mine comes out as nice.

I did the black stripe on top of the orange. Spent a whole day taping that sucker off. Lol.

Looks nice, you did a nice job.

Nice! Did you paint in that freezing weather?

It was freezing outside -20 and down. But I have 100,000 btu heater in my garage. So I did it at about 65 - 70 degrees. yesterday it was 50 out, so parked it in the sun, and it got nice and warm for a buff and wax.

hey i couldnt find those rollers at home depot, nor purple rustoleum+ the right sandpaper.. where should i go? OR can anyone here get me a set of those whizz rollers and such, send to me and i pay them for it?

looking for 1qt of this color... 7796 Dark Purple

You don't have to use whiz,at home Depot look for the white foam rollers it will say Ultra fine .Only the fine one's are white.

[This message has been edited by chopfren-z (edited 02-23-2007).]

Hey!! No door handles!! Thats what im planning on doing. Did you get rid of the handles on the inside too? What kit did you use, how much was it, and do you have any pics of the install?

Mike

Oh, and nice job BTW

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: hey i couldnt find those rollers at home depot, nor purple rustoleum+ the right sandpaper.. where should i go? OR can anyone here get me a set of those whizz rollers and such, send to me and i pay them for it? looking for 1qt of this color... 7796 Dark Purple

As long as the roller says high density foam-----and just a note-brand new rollers are full of dust so wash before first use. Also wash the mixing containers etc. One of mine was loaded with release agent powder and it bubbled my paint terribly.
Buy only the gloss Professional Rustoleum as it is supposed to be better quality.

i did not use any kit to shave my handels. I did all that by hand. And BobaDoo do you have a Menards? They can mix all the rusto colors for you there.

[edit] It only cost me the filler + electronics, so I will say about $150. Door handles are still on the inside, for a safty feature. Sorry I did not have a camera when I did them last summer.

[This message has been edited by ParaStatic (edited 02-23-2007).]

we started on a test door panel we had it looks like black will be easy

what grit should be used for in between coats?

? eh ?

sorry, didn't see this.
what grit you use between coats depends upon how aggressive you are, and how dry(hard) the paint is. i've used 600 and 800 on pieces that have been left several days to dry,
and 1000 on coats that have only been drying for a little over the 16hours time indicated on the paint label. i use a bowl of extremely soapy water to soak my papers in, and a spray bottle of moderately soapy water, to wet the part down with.
gather yourself up a range of paper, 320, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000.
most of the colorsanded pics i've posted above were done with 1000. i work methodically and meticulously on the mirrors because they were all curves.

quote Originally posted by TorqueWench: sorry, didn't see this. what grit you use between coats depends upon how aggressive you are, and how dry(hard) the paint is. i've used 600 and 800 on pieces that have been left several days to dry, and 1000 on coats that have only been drying for a little over the 16hours time indicated on the paint label. i use a bowl of extremely soapy water to soak my papers in, and a spray bottle of moderately soapy water, to wet the part down with. gather yourself up a range of paper, 320, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. most of the colorsanded pics i've posted above were done with 1000. i work methodically and meticulously on the mirrors because they were all curves.

Could not have said it better myself.

thanks!

Torquewench, you get creds from me for your use of the words methodically and meticulously, words that aren't often seen in these parts. Then there is your spelling which is itself meticulous. Any new pictures of your progress?

well its the moment I've been waiting for!
I finally started painting a panell! woooo!
check it out, this is my first layer:

and another view of it:

i'm gonna paint another layer on it tonight aswell... gotta have it all done by Daytona! i dont wanna be ridin up there in some kinda Fiero-hoopdy!

p.s. this is my first sucessfull image post wooooo!

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yay Alex!

looks good.
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David, thanks for the good vibes
it's nice to be appreciated for proper diction. i pull my larynx way down low and do a honey of a Robert Morley impression as i write my posts... ^_^
yes, i do have some progress pics,
but they are sorta contingent upon what is the Scale of Significance... : /

i've been working on my 1/18th scale FieroGT model. my actual notchieGT has the same paint scheme as the red/silver Yat Ming model, and i gave it a metallic dark red/Black repaint. it's going to get wheels, tires, mirrors, headlamp blisters, and maybe rear wing from an NSX-R model i bought on eBay.

i tipped over the first mirror i've been painting(AHHHHHHH), and took a chip out of it. for all of you who want to know how durable this paint is,
i can safely say it behaves just like any auto paint without a clear top coat would have behaved, if chipped in the same manner. i believe that when done right, this paint will be no more or less durable as a car coating. i would recommend clearcoating, as it gives that much more protection, and is just a couple more steps/coats.
so i let the parts sit last week while i kept applying touch-ups to just the nicked spot.

i'm working on my taillight this week, but i'll try to get a couple of coats on the rocker and mirrors. i have a pair of headlamp doors i'm stripping down to the SMC as well. one of the 6(!) colors i've unearthed was a metallic blue-green! o_O

[This message has been edited by TorqueWench (edited 02-27-2007).]