I ran it today for the first time under boost. it's still on jack stands but I put it into gear and reved to about 2,500 rpm and applied the brake and steped on the gas pedal. The brakes squeiled as they had rust on them. As I watched the boost gauge it started to climb and the fuel pressure was climbing like it should until 3,000 rpms and 8 lbs of boost. I noticed the fuel preesure started to fall so i let off. I assume the fuel pump had reached it's limit. I just ordered a new 255 lph pump.

Is this the first time it has run, or first time with boost? either way that is a great feeling.


Got any pictures to share?


Chris

WOW! sounds like an awosme build..only thing to make it even cooler, is to add pics

Looks like alot of fun. I bet its going to be insane.

i see your screen name is very true to your building habbits thats is a monster VERY nice.

Awesome installation but one point to consider. You are using two turbos with a carburetor that uses blow through boosting. We did an engine like this many years ago and found that boosted blow though installations are tricky to tune and that using solid floats is a must ( the hollow brass floats collapse under boost) . If you are ruunning more than 7 or 8 lbs of boost I would add a wide band O2 sensor and Air fuel gauge just top keep watch on things.

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87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Man that is killer!!
Could you post the details of the build? and more pics.

Buildamonster,
Outstanding !!!
An email sent your way.

David Breeze

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Pantera Rebody Kits

Is that 2" muffler pipe going from the turbo into the intake? Never seen it used like that before. What type of turbos are those?

That is awesome, props for getting that in a Fiero

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"If any car is both the parade and the rain, it is the Fiero"

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wow really cool! What transmission are you using? Did you have to stretch anything? how is the suspension set up? etc etc. details please

To answer opm2000 's question. I used two driver side manual transmission stock fiero drive axles. The THM 325 has flat flang with several bolts. As I am a tool and die machinist it was no problem making a 1 inch thick flang with a hole in the center and bolt holes to match the transmission flang. I then turned down the splinded end ( the part that would normaly fit inside the transmission) to a few thousands smaller than my hole in the flang. Press it together and reassemble axle in car set lenght by meassuring that the cv joint is in the middle of it's travel mark it. Then preheat the hole thing ( with boot off no grease ect..) and welded both sides and remachine because of heat warp. Just put boot and grease back on and done. If you do yours this way use good axles as if you have to buying replacement ones the cv joints are offten different and will no work with the one welded on. So you would have to start over.

First picture is driver side





second picture is driver side with the bushing

Nice, but you should do something about that charge piping...
crush/wrinkle bends SUCK and you can easily make a REALLY nice looking and flowing setup for CHEAP if you get some universal intercooler pipe/fittings off ebay...

Nice project!
What do you think of a second blow off valve? Or are you counting on the pressure equalizing factor when just the one opens up?

Theoretically when the one BOV opens up the pressure from the second turbo SHOULD head out that vent, but it may not dump quick enough.

I'd definitely put another dump valve closer to your second turbo there... But, up to you.

[This message has been edited by Oslo (edited 04-01-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Oslo: Nice project! What do you think of a second blow off valve? Or are you counting on the pressure equalizing factor when just the one opens up? Theoretically when the one BOV opens up the pressure from the second turbo SHOULD head out that vent, but it may not dump quick enough. I'd definitely put another dump valve closer to your second turbo there... But, up to you.

Personaly i would have mounted a single BOV on the back side of the carb hat itself, then you dont have to worry about it at all...

yeah, I know those pipes are ugly and low on the flow department. I intend on getting some nice pipes and a second blow off valve. But before i do that i got to re route the pipes so i can put my trunk lid back on. Nothing like two turbo's straped to a v8 in a fiero to draw the cops attention.

quote Originally posted by buildamonster: yeah, I know those pipes are ugly and low on the flow department. I intend on getting some nice pipes and a second blow off valve. But before i do that i got to re route the pipes so i can put my trunk lid back on. Nothing like two turbo's straped to a v8 in a fiero to draw the cops attention.

I think its great!!!! I like the fact you use what you got and are actually building it and not just talking about it....... Build it the way you want it--- so what if it dont have colored smooth tubes with blinking leds everywhere. Big props to you!!!
Your project brings back alot of memories of my old longitudal fiero.

I have to say replacing a fuel pump in a fiero is much easier than some others i have done. I checked the fuel flow before removing stock pump and the fuel flowed out slowely. It gushes out the 3/8 hose now. I used a tre 340c pump it's a 255 lph pump. The website claimed it will support 600 crank hp. Also i called demon and they said all blow thru carbs have the foam floats that will not colapse under pressure. Just to be sure I opened the carb up and it does in fact have the foam floats so i am ok there.

Sadly i blew up my 350 today. It had been knocking for a while now but i thought it would live longer than it did. I bought this engine for a hole $175.00 so i am not too upset about this. However i was able to gain some knowledge of this whole blow thru carb thing works and was able to work out most of the bugs. I think now i am ready to build a better more powerfull engine. once i get a new engine running i will post.

I have began the rebuild. This time it's going to be bulliet proof. I started with a .030 over four bolt main block. It has all forged internals with 7.35 ; 1 pistons, 5.85 H beam rods and forged steel corvette 327 large journal crankshaft gorund .010/.010" The mains are held together with arp bolts and the rods have are arp 8740 bolts. The rods and pitons are rated to 750 hp. The piston ring gap is .024" top .018 second. The cam is a comp blower cam with 268/286 with .512/ .526 lift and 1.6 : 1 roller rockers. the heads are edelbock 200 cc e-tech aluminum. The desktop dyno says with 14 lbs of boost i should have 698 hp @ 6000 rpm and 618 lbs of torque @ 5000 rpm.

oh im jelous.

If it hits 8 lbs at 3000 RPM while it's up on jackstands, are you expecting to see the boost come sooner in the RPM range once you get it on the road (with a load on the motor)?

Very cool! Thank you for the detail and discussion. Nice Job!

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Paul

HHP is now selling Adjustable Sway bars: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/036556.html
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quote Originally posted by buildamonster: I have began the rebuild. This time it's going to be bulliet proof. I started with a .030 over four bolt main block. It has all forged internals with 7.35 ; 1 pistons, 5.85 H beam rods and forged steel corvette 327 large journal crankshaft gorund .010/.010" The mains are held together with arp bolts and the rods have are arp 8740 bolts. The rods and pitons are rated to 750 hp. The piston ring gap is .024" top .018 second. The cam is a comp blower cam with 268/286 with .512/ .526 lift and 1.6 : 1 roller rockers. the heads are edelbock 200 cc e-tech aluminum. The desktop dyno says with 14 lbs of boost i should have 698 hp @ 6000 rpm and 618 lbs of torque @ 5000 rpm.

Just curious, why did you choose a blower spec camshaft instead of a turbo grind which takes into consideration the exhaust dynamics not experienced by an engine using a blower?

I bought a blower cam instead of a turbo specific cam becasue i could not find a small enough duration for what i wanted. I know this cam most likely won't be optimizied for a turbo but with nearly 700hp i think a few less hp won't be missed. I am more worried about power when not under boost street driving and mpg. Dest top dyno says that with no boost i should see 355 hp and 367 lbs of torque this would be more if the compression was higher.

i'm not knocking your setup at all, but i think you might be guessing high on the hp. i sure hope you make it that high, but everytime i've built a car, ran the numbers and guessed at hp i was always off :P so either don't dyno it or take another guess

quote Originally posted by buildamonster: I bought a blower cam instead of a turbo specific cam becasue i could not find a small enough duration for what i wanted. I know this cam most likely won't be optimizied for a turbo but with nearly 700hp i think a few less hp won't be missed. I am more worried about power when not under boost street driving and mpg. Dest top dyno says that with no boost i should see 355 hp and 367 lbs of torque this would be more if the compression was higher.

That's been my concern with my turbo cam specs, the theory behind the turbo cam in my understanding is dependent upon the boost level relative to the peak exhaust back pressure. The lower the back pressure produced by the turbo the lower the need to run a higher LSA because the engine efficiency is more characteristic of a naturally aspirated engine.

I would not have gone with such a low compression for ~15 psi having recalled an old chevy highperformance article from ~1994 where they built an all iron 350 with unmodded mild performance Dart heads and about 8.8:1 compression on pump gas with intercoolers and 12 psi erring on the safe side, in a 4000 lb half ton pick up and made 630 hp and torque and just over 1000 hp at the track on race gas at about 25 psi. On pump fuel they were running 11s quarter miles.


I don't trust Desktop Dyno because I'm getting nearly the exact same readings for the 3900 with the reground cam as was produced with the stock cam and that makes no sense although the stock specs I was provided were measured by a member on the 60 degree forum so either there is a discrepency between his measurements and Delta Cams or the limits of Desktop Dyno have been exceeded. It does appear to give a good reference for modification comparison except in my situation.

Unfortunately since all of the major performance magazines seem to have fallen under one roof, the search engine for past articles has gone to the dogs and I can't find the article outside of my copy back at home. It is a good read for what you are doing.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 07-01-2008).]

After many frustrations of trying to get the right length rod for the pistons and my short 327 crankshaft i gave up. So I called cnc motorsports and placed an order for a forced induction balanced rotating assembly. It has a 4340 crank, 4340 h beam rods and 9:1 coated mahl pistons. It's rated at 1200 hp so it will take anything i can throw at it. Next cam the 200 cc edelbrock e-tec heads and 1.6 : 1 roller rockers that with my 268/ 286 blower cam. I am taking my time to make sure everthing is right so i do it once and enjoy for years to come. I am not cutting any corners this time i am using all stainless braided hoses, cleaning and painting evething before the engine goes backin. I am hoping to be able to drive it before winter. If not then next spring.

Can't get the rod length right for a 327? What?

Good to hear that you're bumping the compression up. 7's was 1960's iron head/roots blower tech.

Just get an emissions legal performance cam. Those give the best bang/buck for turbos anyway. The conversion lifters have gotten a lot more expensive, but you should run a roller cam. The steeper ramp rates let you keep high lift, longish duration while keeping overlap minimal.

I had trw dish pistons that with a 3.25 stroke requires a 5.8" rod. I thought it was a miss print in the spec. i thought it was 5.7". I assembled them with 5.7" rod and the pistons where a little over .100 down in the hole. So i bought some 5.85" rods as they are a standard length and they stuck out of the hole about .030". So to use these pistons on a 327 i would have needed a custom lenght 5.8" rod. So instead of spending the cash on custom rods i just went with a 350 rotating assembly. The engine is 80% assembled and all clearances and heights of the rotating assembly is right on.

Could have gotten Eagle 6.250 rods and pistons for 383 with 6" rods...

That's the way I'd build a traditional 327...

There has been a lot of progress so far. I only have a few things to do before i can drive it. I plan on taking it to the rossville,in summersend festival car show it's on august 23. So i don't have a lot of time left. I did have it running just to break in the cam, but i have to make some heat shields before i drive it too far. I did take off the tranypan just for shits and giggles I was pleased to find no metal chips or signs of disc wear at all. So maybe my trany will hold up to alot more abuse i hope anyway. The old endgine made maybe 400lbs of torque this one nearly 700lbs at 5500rpm.