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YABT (Yet Another Build Thread) - 3.4 TDC Into An 87' GT 5 Speed by Blue Shift
Started on: 02-12-2005 02:36 AM
Replies: 375
Last post by: Blue Shift on 04-05-2008 07:28 AM
Blue Shift
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Report this Post10-03-2005 02:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blue ShiftClick Here to Email Blue ShiftSend a Private Message to Blue ShiftDirect Link to This Post
Glad this hasn't been archived yet. Time for an update.

I've since obtained my clutch, installed the motor on the cradle, installed accessories and wiring, and put it in the car. I still have to wire the motor harness pieces to the ECM, C500, etc. so I'm not nearly done with wiring. I've also obtained the pieces I've chosen to do my exhaust with: A (brace yourself) Flowmaster 80 Camaro muffler and a Catco 12" long cat.

*Commence muffler fight* - why a Flowmaster? I've heard what glasspacks and glasspack type mufflers sound like on the V6. They're very smooth and they don't rasp or snarl, but IMHO they don't at all provide the throaty sort of sound I'm looking for. I obviously can't explain in words what I'm looking to achieve. The aftermarket chambered muffler on my old 2.8 produced a sound I really liked, and I'm looking to sort of recapture that tone with a new twist. I also happen to have a Magnaflow downstairs that I borrowed - I don't think I could cram that thing into the space I'm trying to fit stuff in. It's too thick.

Anyways, I have to complete wiring, get my gooseneck filler added and drivers side coolant pipe, complete the dogbone, and fabricate my exhaust. I also need to relocate my battery still. We're getting there - it may actually come together someday. Here's some pictures from progress along the way:

After beadblasting my intake plenum/manifold, there were beads stuck everywhere, including the throttle shaft bearings. So I pulled them out and replaced them. One is a common "6000" type bearing, while the other is a "R6" type bearing. I ordered an NSK 6000 and R6 and ended up with GBC parts, but whatever. Www.motionindustries.com has em. Oh, one more funny thing? The 6000 is a METRIC bearing, while the R6 is a ENGLISH bearing! I know the R6 goes over the part machined for threads, but still... WTF GM?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/ Final%20Assembly/Bearing.jpg

You need a tool to punch out the old bearings, even after grinding/breaking the tabs holding them in. It has to be hard steel, be a couple thousandths smaller than the shaft bore in the casting, but a couple thousandths too big to go through the bearing. I looked around for an hour before I found that a cut off headbolt works perfectly as a punch.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Fin al%20Assembly/Tool.jpg

Put it against the bearing from the inside, and use a punch or extension through from the other side to hit the bolt, popping out the bearing. Works great.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Pro ject/Final%20Assembly/Removal_Tool.jpg

Here's my replacement clutch. It still doesn't look like Stevens disc. Must be a later generation or something. Notice that the only difference at all is that the splined hub is installed the right way around. I also just noticed that the incorrect hub on my bad disc has been lathe turned in an attempt to cut down the protruding hub! So they must know about the problem, and send out the "massaged" disc anyways...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20P roject/Final%20Assembly/Clutch_Compare.jpg

New muffler and cat. Muffler is a FLO-42583 Camaro 80 series Flowmaster, cat is a Catco CTO-6906R 12-3/4" long cat. Hell of a deal for 43.39, it has no restrictions inside like some other cats, it's short, and is very well built.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/ Exhaust/Exhaust_Mockup03.jpg

Contrary to my previous beliefs, the 80 will indeed fit up between the cradle and the trunk heatshield with 1/2" of room to spare between the cradle and muffler in one spot. It doesn't need notching, and in fact probably wouldn't make any real fitment difference. Call me insane, but this is how I plan to route this stupid thing: Coming right out the rear manifold through a donut bend toward passenger side, through the cat, U bend to the inlet on the 80 (inlet up top, outlets on the bottom). I thiiiink I just might be able to shoehorn all of it in there if I can get the bends right. Any suggestions or info on where I can get good bends and donuts for a good price?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/ Exhaust/Exhaust_Mockup12.jpg

Downpipe, for comparison and mockup purposes. I'm thinking of trying to put a flare directly on my 1/4 donut elbow, cutting the retaining collar off the downpipe, and transferring it to the elbow. Weld cat directly onto the end of the elbow, weld a U bend onto the other side and into the muffler, install hangers, take it to the shop to install tips. I'll be amazed if I can make it work.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/ Exhaust/Exhaust_Mockup14.jpg

That's all for now, more soon.

[Edit]: Pg 7 = 0wned by me.

[This message has been edited by Blue Shift (edited 10-03-2005).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post10-03-2005 02:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugDirect Link to This Post
Looking good. This is sure going to come in handy once I get off my butt to do my swap.

Thanks!
Nolan

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t76racer
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Report this Post10-03-2005 10:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for t76racerClick Here to Email t76racerSend a Private Message to t76racerDirect Link to This Post
Looking good blue! That disk looks just like my replacement and it works fine. I have just passed 100 miles on it. Still doesnt look like Stevens either.

Just an Idea, I used the stock Fiero thermostat housing and filler. Cut off the extra "nipples" and weld shut. It bolts right on and is easy to fill and change thermostat.

I was looking at my other Fiero's 4 banger thermostat housing has more of a bend, just a thought.

Keep it up you will have fun driving it! (some motivation)

Travis

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SKIDMARK
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Report this Post10-04-2005 09:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SKIDMARKSend a Private Message to SKIDMARKDirect Link to This Post
Like I said on the first page, this thread stands out in the detail department.

I just got my DOHC to fit in the engine bay of my 88 GT (Getrag 5spd) and decided to use a front exhaust manifold in the rear ($25 at the juk yard). I ported it to closely match the head ports to minimize restrictions and designed a Y pipe using the front half of the crossover. The Y connects over the back of the trans and bends 120 degrees into the cat and then directly into the muffler. The cat and muffler inlet are on the driver's side instead of the passenger like most others I've seen. It would work even better without the converter but I want the car to meet Ohio emissions.
I haven't measured it yet but the Camaro muffler might be a little too long for my application. I like the idea of it being quiet but throaty though. Just want to hear it when I get on it a little.

Keep posting....your build looks great. Can't wait to see the final results.

Don

------------------

[This message has been edited by SKIDMARK (edited 10-17-2006).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post11-03-2005 02:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugDirect Link to This Post
Bump
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post12-07-2005 08:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
Bump!

Something tells me there may be an update soon.

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fieromadman
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Report this Post12-07-2005 11:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanDirect Link to This Post
I got the 80 series crossflow like you do. It fits in there pretty well, although it isnt by any means quite. It has a very VERY pleasent tone though, and is indeed more throaty than the glasspack exhaust is. I think that you could throw a mc donalds straw on one of these engines for exhaust and have it sound good though. I didnt attempt to put a cat on my car and I still ended up running my exhaust not through the stock rear manifold. I'm not saying that it wont work to do what your planning, but i dont know if it will work because i didnt try it. I wanted something better flowing anyhow, so now I got a crazy whacked out exhaust, but i think that it flows and works good!

------------------

--180* t-stat, (cam degrees) 1.5 degree intake advance and 5 degree exhaust retard, ported lower intake, FFP pulley, A/C Idler, flowmaster exhaust, EGR delete, K&N filter, chip-- --Check out the Fiero Kingdom!--

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ltlfrari
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Report this Post12-08-2005 07:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
I'm running a short magnoflow + cat on mine with a 2 1/4 inch exhaust pipe and it was waay too loud. Had to install one of theose CC inserts into the pipe between cat + mufler to get it to be aceptable. now it has a nice growl unde acceleration but is reasonably quiet for general driving.

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Dave E

www.ltlfrari.com

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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post12-09-2005 03:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ltlfrari:

I'm running a short magnoflow + cat on mine with a 2 1/4 inch exhaust pipe and it was waay too loud. Had to install one of theose CC inserts into the pipe between cat + mufler to get it to be aceptable. now it has a nice growl unde acceleration but is reasonably quiet for general driving.

Those things really work huh? How restrictive are they?

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Report this Post12-09-2005 07:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
Don't know since I have now way of measuring before/after flow and it never ran right in the before state anyway so can;t even use seat of pants performance meter !! Certainly made a big difference to the noise level though although since I used 2 1/4 inch pipe throughout I guess that did not help the noise level (smaller tube = more gas velocity = more noise). Anyway it is not so much a cop magnet now unless I hit the gas then it has a nice roar but otherwise it just has a nice rumble.
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Report this Post12-09-2005 08:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gt88normSend a Private Message to gt88normDirect Link to This Post
"Those CC inserts" ..... please elaborate ..... I'm not familiar w/ that term.

Thank you Norm

P. S. : Congratulations on getting your car running, I've been following along.

[This message has been edited by gt88norm (edited 12-09-2005).]

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Report this Post12-09-2005 09:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by gt88norm:
"Those CC inserts" ..... please elaborate ..... I'm not familiar w/ that term.

http://www.carchemistry.com/ccinserts.html

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gt88norm
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Report this Post12-09-2005 10:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gt88normSend a Private Message to gt88normDirect Link to This Post
Thanks Steven, I now have another bookmark on file .... I like women and cars to have a "smokey voice", ..... shreikin' makes me tune out.
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Report this Post12-16-2005 12:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SKIDMARKSend a Private Message to SKIDMARKDirect Link to This Post
Hey, what happened to Blue Shift and this great build? It's been a couple months since he posted.
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post12-17-2005 04:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by SKIDMARK:

Hey, what happened to Blue Shift and this great build? It's been a couple months since he posted.

I just saw him today.. He's been really busy with work and other stuff.
He's getting a little bit done at a time. I think he plans on doing the exhaust in a week or two. Stay tuned!

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Blue Shift
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Report this Post12-20-2005 05:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Blue ShiftClick Here to Email Blue ShiftSend a Private Message to Blue ShiftDirect Link to This Post
Thank you Steven and everybody else for keeping this thread alive! I thought it'd be long gone by now.

Well, the car is still alive and in progress, but I've been so backed up with work for the last few months that I've made very little progress. As it is, the engine and cradle are back out - I had to install the new 94-95 cam cogs, and retime with a 13 degree retard. I also did stuff like install a newer style timing belt cover set and a brand NEW Delphi A/C compressor for R-134a which I bolted on as well. I found the compressor on a car at the yard with it's instruction booklet still taped to it for 30 bucks.

As it stands I have to complete these things:

1.) Exhaust. I'm going to try to shoehorn a Flowmaster 80 and a cat into the space between the motor and the trunk. I think it can be done, and if so will be just about the most compact full muffler exhaust ever. Wish me luck on that one.

2.) Plumbing. Gotta finish the driver side coolant hose, should be easy to do. I also gotta finalize all my vacuum hoses and things as well.

3.) Wiring. I had it almost done once, but I'm starting over with this one. Hopefully it won't be so difficult.

4.) Interior and instrumentation. I have to put my interior together, order the custom Speedhut gauges I want (Aaron of all people found out that you can order gauges from speedhut with the 160 MPH speedo, and 8K Tach - you'll have to calibrate the speedo, which I have a way I'll cover in detail later). I also have to install my Autometer Cobalt AFR gauge too on my A pillar pod.

5.) Break in and testing. Go out there and break it in!

When I get moving, I'll pick it back up. Sorry to keep you guys waiting!

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Report this Post01-09-2006 10:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SKIDMARKSend a Private Message to SKIDMARKDirect Link to This Post
Hope to see you back at it soon. I was afraid I would catch up with you and not have a reference guide to do my 88 GT but there's little chance of that. I too am working on the wiring and exhaust. It sounds like we may have similar ideas for routing the exhaust system.
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Report this Post01-09-2006 11:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AaronZ34Click Here to visit AaronZ34's HomePageClick Here to Email AaronZ34Send a Private Message to AaronZ34Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blue Shift:
(Aaron of all people found out that you can order gauges from speedhut with the 160 MPH speedo, and 8K Tach

Damn straight!

Dang tritum, from the looks of it, I may have my swap done and running before your's!

------------------

"all pushrod motor are better than the dohc because it has less rotational mass"
-rick17, MyMonte member, owner of a 3100 Monte Carlo LS

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Report this Post01-09-2006 03:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanDirect Link to This Post
I'm gonna be changing my oil later and will snap some pics of my exhaust setup for you blue shift.. I dont think that you will be able to fit the 80 series and the cat in that space, and if you can I will bow down to you! Are oyu using two front manifold or going with the stock manifolds? Using two front ones and a custom crossover would be the best thing to do IMHO.

Later,
Jeff

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Report this Post01-09-2006 05:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieromadman:

I'm gonna be changing my oil later and will snap some pics of my exhaust setup for you blue shift.. I dont think that you will be able to fit the 80 series and the cat in that space, and if you can I will bow down to you! Are oyu using two front manifold or going with the stock manifolds? Using two front ones and a custom crossover would be the best thing to do IMHO.

Later,
Jeff

He's using the stock manifolds and crossover. We / he mocked it up a few times and it looks like it all will fit using the tightest 90 degree bends available (2.5" donut cut into 90 degrees).

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Report this Post01-09-2006 05:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback 86Send a Private Message to Fastback 86Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Steven Snyder:


He's using the stock manifolds and crossover. We / he mocked it up a few times and it looks like it all will fit using the tightest 90 degree bends available (2.5" donut cut into 90 degrees).

Just FYI, IIRC, the WCF Spintech muffler is smaller dimensionally (lengthwise, I believe) than the Flowmaster 80 Series, and its already designed to be a cross flow muffler. I think its also cheaper. Might be worth looking into.

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Report this Post01-09-2006 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fastback 86:


Just FYI, IIRC, the WCF Spintech muffler is smaller dimensionally (lengthwise, I believe) than the Flowmaster 80 Series, and its already designed to be a cross flow muffler. I think its also cheaper. Might be worth looking into.

Blue Shift likes to do things the hard way so he never gets them done. Plus he says he wants the "rumble" of the Flowmaster.

I'm going with the Spintech myself for my "quiet" exhaust setup. Sounds great on your 3.4 OHV... should be monstrous (but quieter than what I have right now!) on the DOHC.

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Report this Post01-10-2006 01:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanDirect Link to This Post
The flowmaster has an AWESOME sound on the 3.4 DOHC, it rumps at idle and low rpms and then howls at high rpms much like the sound of a ferrari when you're in the car.

Glad to hear that you guys got it mocked up and think its going to work. I had allready snapped some pictures earlier today of the exhaust on my car though, so i'll show them to you anyhow. Its a bit tight!

as you can see I used the stock manifolds, but two front ones and created a custom y-pipe.

In this pic you can kinda see after the pipes merge it goes into a 90* and then into the top of the muffler

As you can see, the muffler doesnt stick down below the frame, its above it in all places.

Heres the 90* that goes into the muffler, as you can see it barely clear the tie rod mount on the earlier cradle. We cut a few reliefs into it and re-welded it to get a little bit better clearance too.

The passenger side outlet (without using any bends to avoid) hits the frame with 2.5" diameter exhuast unless you mount the muffler lower, but that looks silly. I had to cut a small section of the cradle to avoid that problem.

and lastly, it is tight up against the trunk, the trunk will get hot, I am going to see what I can do about mounting it away from the trunk more because you wouldnt want a fire incident. Seriously, try and give it some space so it doesnt heat it up like mine does.

I still like the way that my exhaust came together though and I think that it flows fairly well. It's all mandrel bends witht eh exception of the y-pipe that changes the two 2.25's into the single 2.5."

Good Luck!
-Jeff

------------------

--180* t-stat, (cam degrees) 1.5 degree intake advance and 5 degree exhaust retard, ported lower intake, FFP pulley, A/C Idler, flowmaster exhaust, EGR delete, K&N filter, chip-- --Check out the Fiero Kingdom!--

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XzotikGT
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Report this Post01-12-2006 02:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for XzotikGTClick Here to visit XzotikGT's HomePageClick Here to Email XzotikGTSend a Private Message to XzotikGTDirect Link to This Post
I am running a spintek and a cat, and it is still pretty loud. I have had many noise complaints...mostly because I leave to go to work at 5 am. The sound was really raspy in the higher rpms, and sudden throttle closings when I just used the muffler with no cat. SInce the cat, it has mellowed out alot. People say a turbo will also make it way quiter....LIES...my car sounds exactly the same.

Hopefully this Sunday, I will be getting a big ole' magniflow thrown in there, I will tell you how that differs in sound.

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Report this Post01-12-2006 08:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KohburnSend a Private Message to KohburnDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by XzotikGT:
People say a turbo will also make it way quiter....LIES...my car sounds exactly the same.

Hopefully this Sunday, I will be getting a big ole' magniflow thrown in there, I will tell you how that differs in sound.

turbo only quiets it down when you start building boost due to the increased backpressure.. the 2.8 turbo fiero i sold my dad rumbles real nice but when you get on it it actually gets quieter - then when you let off it gets loud again

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Report this Post01-12-2006 11:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by XzotikGT:

I am running a spintek and a cat, and it is still pretty loud. I have had many noise complaints...mostly because I leave to go to work at 5 am. The sound was really raspy in the higher rpms, and sudden throttle closings when I just used the muffler with no cat. SInce the cat, it has mellowed out alot. People say a turbo will also make it way quiter....LIES...my car sounds exactly the same.

Hopefully this Sunday, I will be getting a big ole' magniflow thrown in there, I will tell you how that differs in sound.

Will you be selling the Spintek after you switch to the magnaflow?

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Report this Post02-01-2006 12:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SKIDMARKSend a Private Message to SKIDMARKDirect Link to This Post
Today I cut 3" out of my Flowmaster 80 to make more room for the converter. What I plan on doing is similar to Jeff (fieromadman) except that I'll have a converter and my crossover will be a little less complicated. I found stainless tubing cheaper than most places at WWW.PERFORMANCE-CURVE.COM and should be able to complete the whole exhaust tips and all for a lot less than a stock Fiero exhaust system. I'll post pictures as things progress.

Don't mean to hijack your thread....just sharing my idea and keeping your thread alive. Again, I hope to see you get back into it soon....need inscentive.

Don

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Report this Post02-01-2006 02:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanDirect Link to This Post
If by less complicated you mean worse flowing then I think that I understand j/k Good luck to you, I on the other hand dont have to deal with emissions so I'll gain the power and pollute. (dont tell the green party guys)
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Blue Shift
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Report this Post02-01-2006 04:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Blue ShiftClick Here to Email Blue ShiftSend a Private Message to Blue ShiftDirect Link to This Post
You know, I thought this thread would have been archived by now. Many thanks to everybody who's kept it alive long enough to come back to it. I've been a combination of busy and lethargic for the last few months, which as you know makes for no progress at all. I've finally got back to doing some work. I may very well meet or even break Ltlfrari's record for time to completion! But anyways, back to work (slowly).

I finally got started on fabbing my exhaust today. I'm going to have a 1/4 donut bend going straight from the manifold, and over toward the passenger side of the car, through a sawed off cat (nipples sawn down to the housing to save length), into a donut U bend, into the muffler inlet, possibly with the inlet nipple sawn down to save length as well. I'll have an exhaust shop install and align some Z28 style slot shaped tips, which fit into the GT rear fascia like they were made for them. The donut came from Chassis Shop (which oddly was the only place I could find which had donuts), I had an exhaust shop in Gilroy put a flare on a leftover piece of 2.5" pipe, which I then cut off with a lathe for precision. A local exhaust shop had the universal style manifold flange on hand. I welded the flare into the flange, and then welded the 1/4 donut into the other side of the flange to make up the first and most difficult part of the system. More details as I complete more of it.

It may be hard to tell, but the flare is welded into the flange, with the donut section welded in from the other side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Welding.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Welding2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Flange.jpg

It took a bit of dialing in the welder (and an embarassingly ugly weld on the flare side) to finally get these results.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Pretty_Weld.jpg

The mockup. Notice I only have a spring on the left side for now just to mock things up. I have a couple of ideas on hand. One, I shorten one of the springs by grinding it down carefully and try to fit it in with a shorter bolt as well to clear the radius of the bend. Two, Ieave it as is - let it pivot freely on one bolt while tension is applied by the spring bolt on the opposite side. It could work. On the mockup, it looks like the U bend that I was worried about will JUST clear all the critical stuff, like the inboard rear ball joint (poor 87) and my new poly rear cradle mount. It may end up with about an inch of clearance or so, which would be nice. If it looks like it's going to cook the mount, I may wrap the U bend in header tape, since it will be directly downstream of the cat, and really hot. Notice that at least on my 87, it looks like the Flowmaster 80 snugs into a space just short of hitting the cradle. I don't think cradle notching is nessicary on pre 88's, though I could be proven wrong as I get this thing put together. Also, the lowest point on the cradle is obviously sitting on the dolly - and so is the muffler, so it looks like it's not only going to fit, but not hang down. Sweet. All and all it looks like it'll work so far.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Mockup1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Mockup2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Mockup3.jpg

That's it for now - Stay tuned! I'll be back, no... really, I will this time.


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ltlfrari
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Report this Post02-01-2006 08:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
If my welding was that 'bad' I'd be more than happy, mine still looks like pigon doo doo but it is improving. My actual build time was only about one year, the other 18 months was spent finding I had two wires the wrong way around ...Duh...
It's looking good, nice work.

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fieromadman
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Report this Post02-01-2006 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanDirect Link to This Post
are you sure that the strut tower is not going to be in the way with that exhaust setup? looks like its going to be an awefully close clearance! Also with the cat and the muffler in that area and if you plan on retaining the trunk make sure tyhat it is well insulated. I know of someone that had a slight fire problem when the trunk was loaded with just the 80 series muffler too close to the trunk wall .
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post02-01-2006 02:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieromadman:

are you sure that the strut tower is not going to be in the way with that exhaust setup? looks like its going to be an awefully close clearance! Also with the cat and the muffler in that area and if you plan on retaining the trunk make sure tyhat it is well insulated. I know of someone that had a slight fire problem when the trunk was loaded with just the 80 series muffler too close to the trunk wall .

I don't think Chris plans on driving it below 90 mph. There should be adequate airflow for cooling.

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fieromadman
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Report this Post02-28-2006 09:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromadmanClick Here to visit fieromadman's HomePageClick Here to Email fieromadmanSend a Private Message to fieromadmanDirect Link to This Post
hehe, yeah, under 90 wont be a problem then bump!!
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Report this Post03-01-2006 02:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AaronZ34Click Here to visit AaronZ34's HomePageClick Here to Email AaronZ34Send a Private Message to AaronZ34Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Steven Snyder:
I don't think Chris plans on driving it below 90 mph. There should be adequate airflow for cooling.

It'll be under 90 when it crosses into oncoming traffic on the highway.


/inside joke

[This message has been edited by AaronZ34 (edited 03-01-2006).]

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Report this Post03-22-2006 03:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GonsaiPKSend a Private Message to GonsaiPKDirect Link to This Post
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Blue Shift
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Report this Post03-30-2006 03:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Blue ShiftClick Here to Email Blue ShiftSend a Private Message to Blue ShiftDirect Link to This Post
Well, it's been awhile. I've been pretty busy lately until now, so I'm back at work.

So I've completed my ultra short chambered exhaust setup - it CAN be done, which is a surprise, even to me. No, I didn't cut the trunk. I've finally mocked it up on the car, tack welded it, adjusted, then welded it together. I've also come up with a hanger system to take some of the load off and suspend some of the weight so it doesn't come apart under the stress of expansion, vibration, and fatigue. There's not too much more to it, so here's the pics:

Mockup and tacking:

Test fitting the cat and U section on the car
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/UPipe.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/UPipe2.jpg

Welding:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Welded.jpg

Though sorta ugly, I put a second weave pass over the root pass - these welds will never rust through, leak, or break
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Two-Pass.jpg

U pipe clearance:

The U pipe literally came in contact with the cradle with the exhaust hanger not in place, so I ground out a small section of the cradle, and and hand cut and fit a piece of metal into the curved cutout and welded/blended it in for more clearance. It should do the job.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Tight-Spot.jpg

Exhaust hanger:

I had to find a way to fasten a hanger hook to attach the exhaust hanger. I bent a hook out of bar stock, but when I tried to weld it to the thin sheetmetal it blew right through (and set the carpet on fire, oops). I decided to cut out a small slot, weld the hook to a backing plate, drop it through, tack it in place, and paint it. I can do one armed pullups on the hook without even flexing anything.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Hanger.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Trunk-Hole.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Hanger-In-Place.jpg

Installed:

This is the whole thing in place. The muffler is lightly brushing the stocker heatshield. I figure I'll remove it and it'll give me almost 3/4" of combined air gap. I also ordered some aluminized glass fiber heat shield from Summit Racing - part number THE-13575. It's not very thick, self adhesive, and it's good for 2000 degrees. It should keep the trunk from becoming a portable car-b-que. I hope. I also ordered some aluminized header wrap - I'm going to wrap up the U pipe after spraying it down with VHT header coating to insulate it. VHT should keep out water that leads to rot. The U pipe is going to get nice and toasty when the cat lights up, which could possibly melt the rear poly cradle mount a few inches away. I also got some aluminized glass tape to cover up stuff like the rear inner tie rod balljoint which the cat passes right over, it already has a heatshield but more would be nice here. Hopefully with the insulation, nothing will get too hot. Somehow in there, I managed to actually cram the muffler in there high enough to not hang below the cradle as well - you can see the picture where I lay a piece of steel across the cradle low points and the muffler is about 1/4" higher. Sweet. And the last picture, the bolt up. I'm not exactly sure what to do with the second bolt since you can't fit a spring bolt in there, or a spring. I'm considering using a socket head cap bolt, with a washer, a lockwasher, maybe another washer then another lockwasher and then bolt it down so it's not hard mounted. As it is, it can move and flex alright, but when I have time, I'll come up with a better solution.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Exhaust-Installed.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Heatshield-Clearance.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Ground-Clearance.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Bolt-Up.jpg

That's pretty much all of it for now. All I have left is wiring, relocating the battery, plumbing the drivers side coolant hose, and the dogbone. Then all the little things like routing vacuum hoses and such. Not much longer now!

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Report this Post04-04-2006 01:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Blue ShiftClick Here to Email Blue ShiftSend a Private Message to Blue ShiftDirect Link to This Post
More pictures of the exhaust. I took the whole thing down to the carb shop my friend owns and beadblasted it, the trunk heatshield, the front compartment heatshield (in case I use it), and some other stuff. Then I gave the exhaust a spray of VHT paint - but this time I used the "Header Paint" instead of the "Flameproof" coating. Perhaps it's reformulated just for that sort of use? Instead of a pearlescent white/silver, it's an aluminum color. Hope it stays put. Anyways, here's the pics:

Exhaust after curing. I was going to show you guys pictures of the whole works crammed into my barbecue cuz it won't fit in the oven, but I can't find them. Worked like a charm, anyways. The cat is stainless and it'll get reaaaallly hot so I left that uncoated. Turned a nice golden color in the heat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Exhaust_Painted-Front.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Exhaust_Painted-Back.jpg

The trunk heatshield. I'm going to put a thin heatshield over it, with a shiny surface anyways, so I beadblasted it to get the crud off. I also twisted and pounded down the lower two mounts to give me more clearance.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Heatshield.jpg

It's not much, but it's better than it was. I have a sheet of this 1/16th inch thick fiberglass insulation with an aluminized surface - good for shielding things from nearby objects up to 2000 degrees. I'm going to stick it down over the surface of the metal shield to add another barrier to the heat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Shield_Clearance.jpg

The unshielded side of the cat body is very close to the housing that holds the inner balljoint for the rear passenger side tierod. It actually has a heatshield already, but I have some self adhesive aluminized glass tape to put over it to beef it up some more. I hope it'll work.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Balljoint_Clearance.jpg

And the last heat sensitive part, the rear poly cradle mount. The only thing poly isn't good at, is not melting. You can see that the U pipe (which is right after the cat and is sure to get nice and hot) sorta comes near it. I'm going to put header wrap on the U pipe, soak it down with VHT header coating, then bake it. Hopefully the paint will keep water out so it doesn't rot out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Cradle_Mount.jpg

And that's it for now.

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Report this Post04-14-2006 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blue ShiftClick Here to Email Blue ShiftSend a Private Message to Blue ShiftDirect Link to This Post
(Cross posted from RFT)

Alright, this is the last series of pix in the whole exhaust topic. Promise.

I decided to beef up the heatshield a little. On the front, I have Thermo-Tec "heat blanket" type material. It's about 1/16th of an inch thick woven fiberglass cloth, with an aluminized surface. The adhesive decided to protest being baked in the barbecue, so I also attatched it with some stainless steel screws so it can't ever go anywhere. That should take care of the radiant heat. Then on the backside, I laid some fiberglass mat I had laying around, trimmed it to fit, pressed it into all the curves, then soaked it in VHT header paint, and further pressed it into the depressions on the backside of the heatshield. No adhesives to fail, no moisture to get in. And it'll be held in place once the shield is screwed back in place. Speaking of being held in place, for the mounting bolt on the inside of the bend going to the cat, I decided to use a normal bolt, with a stack of stainless steel washers, and spring washers. It just clears, it'll give some spring tension, but won't be a hard mount. Works great as far as I can tell. Anyways, on to the pictures:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Backing-Composite.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Backing-Composite-2.jpg

Kohburn brought up a good point about the rubber hangers, so I took his advice and replaced it with a steel spring hanger. That ought to do it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Spring-Hanger.jpg

And it's all done - I'll leave installing tips to the exhaust shop, or perhaps I'll do it myself once the car is reassembled.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/pyromaniacal/TDC%20Swap%20Project/Exhaust/Finished.jpg

And that's all. Carry on.

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SKIDMARK
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Report this Post05-06-2006 01:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SKIDMARKSend a Private Message to SKIDMARKDirect Link to This Post
Not much room in there for an exhaust system.
Just keepin' this thread alive and waiting patiently for an update!

I made some progress on my DOHC conversion....finished the crossover and welded it. I would post some pictures but I suck at welding so I think I'll wait until I'm done grinding and polishing. I also power washed the cradle and trans and I'll be cleaning, polishing, and painting everything in the engine compartment for the next week or two.
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ltlfrari
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Report this Post05-06-2006 01:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
You want to watch the grinding. I (still) suck at welding. When I did my exhaust I ground the welds down. Looked nice but didn't last long and soon cracked and leaked. Now I have Mr Blobby welds on there, don;t looks as nice but they do the job. I figured it was better to keep the fire INSIDE the exhaust pipe !!

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Dave E

www.ltlfrari.com

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