i have a 85 gt with a v6 just rebuilt the engine and went to start for the first time...didnt work...checked for spark and got nothing and as far as i know its not the coil we put all the wires back correctly but it just isnt getting spark please help
Do you have a CEL when you turn the key on? (basic power to ECM) Can you get any codes from the CEL? Does the CEL blink when you crank the engine? (good if it does) Find the purple/white wire to the distributor module (four wire plug) If you touch a test light to this wire with the ingnition on the fuel pump is suppose to run for 2 sec. (this if from the book never tried it)
All the above is just to try and verify your ecm has power....
ok i checked and im getting power to the distributer from the coil but after that nothing its not giving me spark to the plugs...as for the CEL what is that?..yes the fuel pump runs when i turn the ignition and i will try the wire thing...all basic lights comeon when you turn the key
yes the check engine light does come on and the starter engages and the engine turns over but doesnt fire up...as for the ignition no idea i bought the car used off some guy...again im getting power to the distributer it just isnt putting out...and its a brand new distributer to
IP: Logged
04:38 AM
tjm4fun Member
Posts: 3781 From: Long Island, NY USA Registered: Feb 2006
if the dist is new, are you getting tach pulses? the tach should go up while it;s cranking. if not, it could be the module or the wiring. if it is moving up off 0, the coil could be shot. inspect it for cracks. there are some checks you can do for the coil, but I don;t remember the procedure offhand, and my book has gone missing.
Engine cranks but won`t start 1. loose distributor is changing timing 2. leaking fuel injectors, faulty cold start vavle, pump, pressure reg, ect 3. iginition compents damp or damaged 4. faulty or incorrectly gapped plugs 5. broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circut 6. broken loose or disconected wires at ignition coil or faulty coil from what you said it could be # 6
Pull the two wire dis. plug (the + C connector). Measure on the wires going to the coil. There should be +10 or more on both wires. If one has volts and the other does not the coil primary is bad.
If both have volts. Plug back in.
Pull the four wire dis. plug and check for spark. If you get spark you pickup coil maybe bad or weak. If not you might want to replace the module.
ok ill try all these things but i dont get the last comment made...i also put the spark plugs on the distributer in a counterclockwise motoin instead of a clockwise motion so im gonna try it...but please keep commenting all comments help....thank you
The dis. rotation is clockwise so the wire should be put on that way.
The last comment is this...
According to the book with the four wire plug that goes to the dis pulled you should not get spark and if you do it means your pickup coil is weak. I have not tried this and it does seem backwards. It sounds like if the pick up is putting out a good signal then the module should not fire the coil, if weak then the module must pulse the coil. With the ecm disconnected you would have no spark adjustment from the ecm, the module would just fire the coil based on the pickup timing. I'll have to try this when I get to that point on my 3.4 conversion.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 06-10-2006).]
ok, im geting voltage out of the coil going to the dis with the ign on and not cranking. even though the dis cap and rotor are new could they not be gapped right and voltage just not be getting to the wires?
ok checked for spark fomr the coil and got nothing just like you guys told me to do...the coil is fairly new and should work and plus i have another one from a 4cyl 86 and it doesnt seem to do anything any onther sugestions
IP: Logged
08:06 PM
ka4nkf Member
Posts: 3702 From: New Port Richey, FL USA Registered: May 99
Take the cap off the distributor and look and see if the pick up coil connector is pluged into the back of th module. then check the two connectors on the module and make sure they are pluged in securly. Make sure you have the rotor button on and the little spring is not broken. If all of this is good, then I would change the module first and if that did nothing then I would change the pick up coil which would require removing the distributor. Don
i took the cap off and the wire is connnected in the back of the moduel and both wires in the front are connected...what is the spring you were talking about and the roter seems to be fine...and what is the pick up coil..and what does it do?(the distributer is brand new and should need a new moduel)
The above it the plan I would try. The only other test I would do is to verify the coil is good.
Leave the gray connector on the coil, unplug the black two wire connector that goes to the dis. from the coil. This leaves the Ing. voltage on the coil when your key is on.
Look at the two wire cable that runs from the dis. to the coil and find the wire that connects to the C pin of the module. Should be in one on the two wire plug toward the inside of the module. Locate which pin on the coil this wire connect to.
If you quickly touch a ground to this pin of the coil and have the spark wire that goes to the dis. close to ground you should get a spark from the coil if the coil is good. Just give the pin a quick touch, don't hold it on long at all or you could damage the coil or blow a fuse.
If you don't feel confortable doing this then just replace the module and the pickup if needed. Check your connectors and wires to make sure they all look good and have sound connections.
IP: Logged
09:23 PM
ka4nkf Member
Posts: 3702 From: New Port Richey, FL USA Registered: May 99
Forget what I said about the spring on the rotor. I was thinking of a different type. You have voltage so this only leaves three things. The module, the pick up coil or the coil. Is the distributor a GM distributor or some other brand. Is the module a GM or some other brand. These engines like AC Delco products. Just keep looking and you will find the problem. Some have said that if you take the module to Auto Zone, that they can test the module. If it shows good then it has got to be the pick up coil or coil. Don
Pickup is under the magnetic disk under the rotor. You have to pull the dis. , take it apart to pull the shaft out to change the coil. You can't take the magnet off the top of the shaft.
The pick up coil is in the distributor It is the round coil that sits under the magnets and has a two prong wire that plugs into the back of the module. If it is the older style of distributor, you will have to remove the distributor to replace it. If you have the newer type distributor then you can change it without removing the distributor. I think there is four screws that hold it. Don
ok this distributer is brand new should i risk voiding the warrenty and take the moduel off to be tested...and when i say it is brand new i just got it out of the box a week ago and put it on because the old one was shot...are the coils on a 4 cyl the same as the 6 cyl cause i have a 86 4 cyl that i know the coil is fine in...mabye it is the coil...ill keep you guys posted...you have been a great help...hopefully by the end of the week all 3 of us can have my car running...thank you
They usually come with a warranty as you mention---just take the whole thing back and have them test/replace the problem areas/components/unit, auto-zone has a lifetime warranty on theirs. The warranty is figured into the cost of the distributor anyway..
Im running into the same problem. Took my ignition module down and had it checked. Completely dead. Replaced it and still have no spark. Before I go looking for another problem, I was wondering what everyone thought about this. When I took the module out, there was only one screw in it. I put it back that way thinking that between the one and the distributor cap holding it down, that it would be enough. Do you think it is or do you think that missing screw could be my problem?
YOu want both screws on the module. Along with being the ground for the module it also makes a good mechanical connection for heat transfer to the base of the dis. Also be sure you puta good full layer of the sink grease on the module. Not to thick but enough to remove all the air voids between the base and module.
ok here is all the info i have and some opinion...ok you turn the key on the car so that the check engine light comes on i get voltage to the coil...but i get not spark from it but as far as i know the coil is fine plus i have another one off my 4cyl which the guys at the auto place said was the same doesnt work either i highly doubt that both dont work because both were operational just a shot while ago especially the one i am working with now...aw for the moduel and the pickup coil they came with the brand new distributer that i got for the car now...please tell me because i just cant seem to figure this out everything seems to be fine why isnt this working??
Have you corrected the firing order of your spark plugs yet ? Have you timed the engine with the a& b grounded in your aldl connector? Do you have a service manual ? Above I mentioned that if you have a warranty on your whole distributor as you mentioned and you feel that it is faulty, then take it back to get a new one for free. Next coils go bad--no rhyme or reason they just do, dodgerunner & Don have this down to 3 things , coil , pick-up coil, or modual...The pick-up coil & modual are in your distributor, which is new and has a warranty on it , including these 2 parts, which leaves your coil, I would buy a coil. Try it, if this does not work, then it has to be your pick-up coil or modual thats in the distributor that has a warranty on it , and take it back for a new one , then you will have replaced all 3 suspected components and the car should run, if not the problem is eleswhere.