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Replacing you ignition pickup coil by Skybax
Started on: 11-11-2004 12:36 AM
Replies: 8
Last post by: Steve Normington on 12-03-2004 03:59 PM
Skybax
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Report this Post11-11-2004 12:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SkybaxSend a Private Message to SkybaxDirect Link to This Post
I posted this basic R&R of the pickup coil in a message the other day.

I am giving it it's "own" thread because I'm afriad this valueable info will be lost in the other discussion.

This way... when somebody who wants to replace their pickup coil in the future, but doesn't know exactly how, and does a search for help, will have a better chance of finding it.

Copy & paste...

Before removing the dist:

- remove dist cap
- mark where the rotor is exactly pointing (let say 3:00)
- mark where the dist is
- remove connections
- remove the ignition module & rotor (wipe module off with a clean rag, do not use any type of cleaner on it)
- remove dist hold-down nut (15mm)
- remove dist from engine

Before removing the dist gear from the dist:

- remember the key-way at the top of the shaft for the rotor matches the key-dot on the dist gear
- using a correct size punch, tap the roll pin out of the lower dist gear
- as you pull the shaft through it may be stubborn, depends on oil changes, use some penetrating oil and keep working it untill it slides through, don't beat on it with anything
- once shaft is out you can now remove clip and remove pickup coil

Be sure to clean everything now really good with carb or brake cleaner..... reassemble:

- put your new pickup coil in place
- install snap ring
- be sure to install a new dist o-ring at this time while you have dist out of car
- do not install ignition module at this time
- coat the shaft with some oil before sliding it into the distributor
- install your dist gear, don't forget the 2 washers, and make sure the dot is on the same side of the shaft as your rotor key-way
- line up the holes on the dist gear & shaft, and carefully tap the roll pin in place
- check for any binding... your almost done!

Now reinstall the dist into the car:

- ok... gear will not fall into where it was exactly, you have to "walk" the gear around in order to get the rotor exactly where it was before. (3:00) Basicly put the dist back in roughly where it goes, you will notice the base of the dist will not sit flush, pull up on the dist a little bit, back the rotor off a tad, then drop it back in. You will still not be flush and the rotor will now be at 4:00. Repeat this process over & over going clockwise bringing the rotor all the way around one position at a time. When you get to the 2:00 position, the next hit should be a winner. The dist will sit flush, and the rotor will be pointing exactly where it was when you pulled it out. If is doesn't, go around the clock again. Sometimes it takes a few laps.
- position the dist where it was when you removed it, this will get you within 1-2 degrees, snug dist down
- install ignition module, BE SURE TO USE NEW WHITE HEAT SINK GREASE, don't use the clear stuff
- hook up all your connections, cap & rotor, and your done!

Be sure to check your timing and check for leaks.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 11-11-2004).]

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Steve Normington
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Report this Post11-11-2004 10:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Steve NormingtonClick Here to Email Steve NormingtonSend a Private Message to Steve NormingtonDirect Link to This Post
- When you install the ignition module, replace the hex-head screws with Phillips headed screws. It makes it much easier to replace when it fails.
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Skybax
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Report this Post11-19-2004 02:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkybaxSend a Private Message to SkybaxDirect Link to This Post
But that's why we did all this work and rebuilt the distributor all nice and pretty with AC Delco parts... so it won't fail.

You should be fine for 10 years and 100,000 miles.

Just in case the module does fail.... and you keep a spare module with you, also keep the correct tool with you to remove the module screws.

I carry a 1/4 nut driver and a 7mm socket with my spare module. (hmmm... I think it's 7mm)

I wouldn't change out the OEM module screws to different ones just so I can use a screwdriver instead of a 1/4 nut driver and 7mm socket.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 11-19-2004).]

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css9450
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Report this Post11-19-2004 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Skybax:

I carry a 1/4 nut driver and a 7mm socket with my spare module. (hmmm... I think it's 7mm)

Actual size of the hex screws ia 5.5 mm. Craftsman used to make a 5.5 nutdriver but its been discontinued; I only bought one unfortunately so one of my cars gets a "regular" 5.5 socket in its tool kit.

7 mm is also a must-have size for small parts in GM cars so I'd recommend carrying one of those too.

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Skybax
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Report this Post11-19-2004 08:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkybaxSend a Private Message to SkybaxDirect Link to This Post
I couldn't remember... it must be a 7/32 or something like that in my Fiero road side kit.

Speaking of 5.5... I have a deep 5.5 from snap-on that the walls of the socket are ground down ultra thin for those stinking Ford external modules on the side of the distributor.

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ditch
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Report this Post11-19-2004 09:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ditchSend a Private Message to ditchDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Skybax:

I wouldn't change out the OEM module screws to different ones just so I can use a screwdriver instead of a 1/4 nut driver and 7mm socket.


good write-up on pick-up coil replacement, FYI the punch needed is 3/16

It's really not any big deal. I changed mine out to phillips head stainless steel screws. I drilled out the holes in the dist base and tapped new threads. My old screws were crapped out and I didn't want to find new ones with the same threads when I had good SS screws in my tool box. I have the GM part number for the screws but they're not available anymore.

I definitely agree that all V6 Fiero owners should carry a spare ignition module with them. I also carry a spare ig coil just in case.

[This message has been edited by ditch (edited 11-19-2004).]

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paulcal
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Report this Post12-03-2004 01:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for paulcalClick Here to Email paulcalSend a Private Message to paulcalDirect Link to This Post
+ for you on an excellent post. While researching a problem with starting, I came across this line in the manual that I don't understand and maybe someone here does.

,"if engine starts but then immediatly stalls open distributer by pass line. If engine then starts and runs ok, replace pickup coil."

How do you "open distributer bypass line"?

------------------

AIM-jaxpac257
Owner of the best looking, non running 2.8 in the south.

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dguy
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Report this Post12-03-2004 08:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dguySend a Private Message to dguyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by paulcal:
"if engine starts but then immediatly stalls open distributer by pass line. If engine then starts and runs ok, replace pickup coil."

How do you "open distributer bypass line"?

IIRC it's one of the wires in the four-pin connector to the ignition module. If I had a schematic handy I'd tell you exactly which one.

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Steve Normington
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Report this Post12-03-2004 03:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steve NormingtonClick Here to Email Steve NormingtonSend a Private Message to Steve NormingtonDirect Link to This Post
If you have the web, you have a wiring diagram handy. Wiring Diagram

According to that, it is the tan/black wire that goes into pin B on the ignition module.

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