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How to make rear coil-overs using factory struts, with pics. by fierohoho
Started on: 02-11-2004 03:17 PM
Replies: 488 (82311 views)
Last post by: fieroguru on 02-07-2020 07:19 PM
Madscanner
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Report this Post08-01-2008 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi All

I'm just starting my conversion and, as I expected, I'm running into issues with parts.

The only sleeves I can get with the right ID for the struts are 6" long.

What I'm wondering, then, is whether to go with a 10" spring or a 12" spring, as most of the combos seem to be 5" sleeve/12" spring or 7" sleeve/10" spring...


Car is a stock '85 SE 2M6.

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RCR
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Report this Post08-02-2008 06:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
I'm just starting my conversion and, as I expected, I'm running into issues with parts.

The only sleeves I can get with the right ID for the struts are 6" long.

What I'm wondering, then, is whether to go with a 10" spring or a 12" spring, as most of the combos seem to be 5" sleeve/12" spring or 7" sleeve/10" spring...


What struts are you using??? I'm using KYB struts from Summit with the 7" x 2"id Monroe style perches from Speedway Motors. Springs are 12" 300# QA1s also from Summit. I just purchased all of the pieces within the last 6 weeks, so it should be available.

Bob
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Report this Post08-04-2008 02:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi Bob

I'm using Monroes as my base - it's what I could get (here in the UK) at a reasonable price.

The sleeves were an impossibly tight fit - wouldn't go on until I stripped the paint off the struts!

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The Madscanner

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), getting some 15" lace alloys and some more useful rubber, am also looking at converting the rear struts to proper coilovers (just 'cause I fancy another project!).

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Report this Post08-15-2008 01:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hiya

Looking for any useful suggestions for a problem with my DIY coilovers.

The fit of the sleeves on the struts is so tight that I had to strip the paint in order to get them to slide on.



I then tried sliding a sleeve on - it went most of the way down without any problem, then stuck, as you can see in the 2nd picture. And I do mean STUCK - I didn't use any force putting it on, but I can't now get it off (so that I can file the strut down slightly for more clearance).



I've tried getting some silicone spray lubricant in behind the sleeve, but no luck.

I'm reluctant to hammer downward (or upwards) on the locking rings in case I ruin the alloy threads.

Any ideas?

------------------
The Madscanner

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.

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Report this Post08-15-2008 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroBoboSend a Private Message to FieroBoboEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If the sleeve is stuck, try heating the sleeve with either a plumber propane torch, or perhaps a hair dryer.

The aluminum sleeve will expand faster and more that the steel strut. And the sleeve should loosen up to the point where you can tap it off with a soft faced mallet, or maybe pull it off with a leather glove.

I hope this proves helpful.

~Bob

------------------
"Its nice to be important.
Its more important to be nice."

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Report this Post08-15-2008 04:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
For that matter, heat the sleeve and slide it on.

Bob
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Report this Post08-15-2008 07:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks - will give it a try.

I'll try to get it off and then prep the barrel of the strut a bit more.

I have realised that where the part number is stamped into the barrel, the edges of the characters are raised slightly - just enough to reduce the clearance. If I can get the sleeve off, I can file down the edges, then the sleeve should slide right down.

Ciao!

------------------
The Madscanner

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.

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Report this Post08-15-2008 07:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gto1966Send a Private Message to Gto1966Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is the inside of your sleeve smooth? Mine had a ridge I had to grind down.
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Report this Post08-16-2008 05:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi

The other sleeve is smooth so, making an assumption here, the stuck one is OK.

I've got a few suggestions and, hopefully, I'll have some time over the weekend to sort it out.

Ciao!

------------------
The Madscanner

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.

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Report this Post08-16-2008 07:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A few pics from mine:
Hats during cleaning:


The old strut, minus the spring, on refurbed suspension, measuring axle length:


Installed:


Different view and one of the holes I need to fix:


I used 7" perches for Monroe shocks from Speedway and KYB struts and QA1 300#, 12" springs from Summit.

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 08-16-2008).]

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Report this Post08-19-2008 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi All

Got the sleeve back off the strut - used the propane torch method.

Will now take the circumferance of the strut down slightly, then should be good to go!

Ciao!

------------------
The Madscanner

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.

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Report this Post08-28-2008 08:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A little off topic, but what was the reason front coil overs are not practical? I was thinking you could box in the lower control arm from a picture but I'm nowhere near a car that I could look at for other possible clearance problems that would need to be dealt with.
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Report this Post08-29-2008 06:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Check out Formula88's post at the beginning of page 6...

------------------

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.

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Report this Post08-29-2008 12:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for whodeanieClick Here to visit whodeanie's HomePageSend a Private Message to whodeanieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
has anyone used the coil-over kit from Fiero addiction?
it looks the same as held just not quite as much money.
I would like to get somthing ordered soon so any feedback would be great.
here is the link to what I am talking about
http://www.fieroaddiction.c...20_22&products_id=56
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Report this Post08-29-2008 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Slghtly O/t, but I've noticed that the kits available Stateside have a single adjusting ring with grub screws to lock, whereas all of the kits I've seen over here use an adjusting ring and a lock ring.

Comments, e.g. what is the likelihood of two rings locked slipping against the likelihood of the grub screws damaging the threads on the sleeves?

Interested in your views.

------------------

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.

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Report this Post08-29-2008 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Madscanner:

Check out Formula88's post at the beginning of page 6...



That's my reason for considering boxing them in to make them stronger to counter any inherit flexibility.
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Report this Post08-29-2008 05:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is there really any benefit to having the shock inboard to the spring? It seems all you would need is the adjustable collar underneath, between the a-arm and the spring, and leave the shock to the side. - Boxing the a-arm was my first thought, though.

Bob
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Report this Post09-19-2008 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Back from holiday, and have taken the spring seat off the second strut and put the sleeve on it. Just need to buy some springs now.



I have decided to buy proper strut tops, rather than modify the originals - it's purely an esthetic thing. Haven't decided yet whether to them from West Coast Fiero or Fiero Addiction - does anyone else make them?

------------------

'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, component speakers instead of the 4x10s, poly bushes on the cradle, swapped the 14" Tech alloys for 15" Diamond Spokes...

Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.

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Report this Post10-03-2008 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi All.

I ordered my strut tops today, from Fiero Addiction, so will see how long it takes to get them and, in the interim, will order some springs.


Ciao!
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Report this Post10-03-2008 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for budsSend a Private Message to budsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Built mine a while ago thanks to this thread.

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1988 N* GT

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Report this Post11-15-2008 03:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, I finally got around to buying both the strut tops, from Fiero Addiction, and the springs, from Faulkners.

As I had to strip the paint from the strut barrels in order to get the sleeves on, I now need to re-paint them. Once that is done, all I have to do is find the time to swap them in, when it isn't dark and when it isn't raining... :lol:

The (nearly finished) struts.

------------------

'85 SE 2M6 automatic
'84 SE 2M4 manual

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Report this Post11-17-2008 04:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JPH87Send a Private Message to JPH87Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Did this conversion to my new KYB struts a couple weeks ago. this thread made it easy and cheep thanks
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Report this Post11-20-2008 11:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thebaronClick Here to visit thebaron's HomePageSend a Private Message to thebaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
How would Coil-over conversion for an FWD x-body/a-body work for front and rears? Would the rear be strong enoughI know that fiero shocks and struts will work on my x-11 and a few members have done that to lower their car several inches. Wondered what would be better for handling?
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Report this Post11-20-2008 01:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for doublec4Send a Private Message to doublec4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Okayyyy....

So I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with info and options.

I have an 86 SE with a 3800 SC manual 4spd in it. I'm looking to make some coil overs... I currently have KYB's in the rear.

What I'm confused with is the length of threaded collar to buy, length of spring, number of coils, and spring rate for my set up...

I want to do this right the first time. Anybody with lots of experience who wants to give me a few pointers, please let me know. I've read a lot in this thread about guys with 350 swaps, and stock motors, and people who have posted what they've done, but not entirely too much on how it worked out for them, or if thjey would have gone with another spring rate if they did it a second time etc. Thanks!
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Report this Post11-20-2008 05:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by doublec4:
Okayyyy....
So I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with info and options.
Thanks!


Chris,

Buy the pieces you need to simulate what I bought from Held since that setup is proved to work and works very well on my Roadster.

http://www.heldmotorsports....iero/CoilOverKit.htm

I used 350lbs and like them, from what I know about your car 300's should be just right for you.
Get a 5" inch threaded collar and the longest springs you can fit - with your ride height 10-12" length range would be best IMHO.

Ryan

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

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Report this Post11-21-2008 10:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for doublec4Send a Private Message to doublec4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the suggestion ryan, thats not a bad idea.
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Report this Post01-24-2009 03:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BMTFIEROSend a Private Message to BMTFIEROEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What spring rate you guys recommand for a for a 88GT with a Shelby S1 and a 4t80. I am looking for about an inch drop in the rear. So what would I need to make this happen?

Thanks,
Tim
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Report this Post01-26-2009 07:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi Folks

Finally finished my conversion over the weekend.


How it looked when I started


Old and new side by side


New strut in place.

After I finished the job,I went out looking for potholes, sleeping policemen, and cats eyes, and was really pleased with the results. Although the suspension still needs to be properly set up front and rear, I was surprised by how smooth the ride was - I had been worried that the 375lb springs would be too stiff, but that isn't the case at all. Interestingly, there was a minor, but obvious difference in the angle of the struts at the knuckles when I started (they are much closer to the same angle now).

I initially set the height by eye before installing the struts and am about 1cm too high (compared to standard) so need to drop them a bit, next time I'm at home and it isn't dark and it isn't raining...

Ciao!

------------------

'85 SE 2M6 automatic
'84 SE 2M4 manual
'98 Ford Mondeo Si
'73 Peugeot 304 S Cabriolet

[This message has been edited by Madscanner (edited 01-26-2009).]

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Report this Post02-16-2009 07:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Duke_On_FireSend a Private Message to Duke_On_FireEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
im thinking of doing this when i get some money. Nice writeup.
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Report this Post02-16-2009 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm STILL waiting for someone who did this with the cheaper sleeves from a kit for another car to tell us what works. Has anyone actually done this???
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
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Report this Post02-16-2009 05:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroFanatic13Send a Private Message to FieroFanatic13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

I'm STILL waiting for someone who did this with the cheaper sleeves from a kit for another car to tell us what works. Has anyone actually done this???
Paul
aka "Tha Driver"



That makes two of us. I keep seeing the "Civic" kits on e-bay and wondering...
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Report this Post03-01-2009 08:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tomanyfierosSend a Private Message to tomanyfierosEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
bump
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Report this Post03-20-2009 10:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroFanatic13:
That makes two of us. I keep seeing the "Civic" kits on e-bay and wondering...

OK, maybe a little more useful info:
There was a used set on egay recently that the guy said was for a "92 93 94 95 Honda Civic Hatchback". I asked him & he said the inside diameter was 2 1/2", which if I'm not mistaken (I haven't re-checked) will fit our struts. Of course, as usual the idiots at egay bid more for these than a new set goes for so I didn't bid.
I still have not heard back from any of the several venders that I've contacted. I doubt they even have the item in stock...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

DO NOT TOUCH THE TREUM!

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Report this Post03-30-2009 04:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thought this link might help everyone out as well.

This is the install procedure from FieroAddiction on their Rear Coilover Kit for the Fiero

http://www.fieroaddiction.com/coil-over.html
Thanks
Dave M.
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Report this Post04-13-2009 01:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GTCONVERSIONSend a Private Message to GTCONVERSIONEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just picked up a set of 2 sleeves and nuts with some hats for 10.00 from a guy at work.I have the kyb rears these are just over the 2inch id i was reading about will these still be ok?

If so i just need to pick up some springs and i can tear it down next weekend
Also they are 5 1/2 long i was planning on buying some 12inch 350 springs as this is going in a v8 car
Thanks for any help.

[This message has been edited by GTCONVERSION (edited 04-13-2009).]

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Report this Post04-13-2009 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero_AdamSend a Private Message to Fiero_AdamEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
GT, the sleeves I got were a larger diameter at the top and bottom, but tapered in and were narrower in most of the sleeve. I can't tell from your picture if yours are the same ID all the way through or not.

On a related note, has anyone else that has used 300 lb springs or higher had problems with the springs not being secure when adjusting the collar down to get a nice ride height? What I mean is, to get the ride height to sit lower than stock, I have to crank down the adjusting collars, which causes the springs to not sit against the upper strut mounts (with the car in the air, of course). I know that the springs should stay in place with normal driving, but the off chance of hitting a big bump, pothole, dip, etc. worries me about the spring falling away from the strut mount and not seating correctly, not to mention the big 'clunk' it would make.
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Report this Post04-14-2009 03:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GTCONVERSIONSend a Private Message to GTCONVERSIONEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
they are the same size all the way .I may just buy the wcf kit so i know it will work correct.
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Report this Post04-17-2009 08:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Riddick85Send a Private Message to Riddick85Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
By using the 12" spring I can see you get more adjustable range but if you adjusted it to near the bottom wouldn't that lower the car like 3-4"? It seems a little much. I have read through this whole thing but I still have a question that wasn't exactly covered.

It seems where the adjuster is at is about where the spring perch is normally at in most of the finished pics. Couldn't you keep the perch, get a shorter adjuster sleeve, and get a 8" or 10" spring? I know it would be easier to get coil bind that way but as long as you aren't driving crazy it should be fine I think.

I know I could be way wrong but that is why I am asking and not just doing. I just want an easy, safe way to lower the car about an inch to get rid of the big gap in the wheel wells.
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Madscanner
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Report this Post05-16-2009 08:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MadscannerSend a Private Message to MadscannerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The final result - front and rear lowered...

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'85 SE 2M6 automatic (Left-hand drive)
'84 SE 2M4 manual (Right-hand drive)
'98 Ford Mondeo Si
'73 Peugeot 304 S Cabriolet

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rourke_87_T-Top
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Report this Post05-22-2009 01:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rourke_87_T-TopSend a Private Message to rourke_87_T-TopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ground-Control coilover thread. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/099448.html
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