My shop is finally going up next week (if all goes as planned). Getting the concrete completed was its own challenge but, that's done finally.
Researching the different floor sealants/barriers that are out there. I like what I'm reading about the Epoxy based versions but every brand I read about has customer reviews with both good and bad things to say. It seems the "Industrial" versions are more of what I want although they are significantly more expensive. But you only get this opportunity to do it right one time, the first time and I want this to go well and last. I've seen the end results and what the wrong product will look like down the road, I really don't want something that doesn't last (wears) or some product that doesn't protect against stains. I will be applying the surface coat myself. Prefer a clear version but, a colored version won't bother me, I want a chemical protective barrier that does provide some light reflective results.
I'm looking for a brand/version with chemical protections, not just moisture barriers. My concrete contractor recommended a product called Eagle floor coverings but, it's only a moisture barrier.
Recommendations with comments would be greatly appreciated. TIA.
One of the biggest failures with any of these floors is poor prep. With old concrete, you need to use diluted muriatic acid to prep the surface. Most people skip this step and use some other chemical. Then the floor coating peels up like nothing. In your case, I would imagine that since it's new, you would only have to wash the floor to remove dust. If properly prepped, any of the epoxy coatings will last for many years.
I used the Rustoleum Garage Epoxy kit. I made sure to prep the floor. There were a lot of oil stains in the concrete from the previous owner. I used industrial degreaser and scrubbed the floor thoroughly. Then I used my 5" random orbital sander to sand problem areas. Degreased it again then used the acid etch. Be sure you have PPE before using the acid etch. Then I applied the epoxy coating, flakes and clear coat. That was in 2016. The floor has held up well to a lot of abuse. There is paint over spray on it and I dropped a can of PVC primer on the floor. Just so you know, PVC primer will turn your floor purple. It does not matter how stain resistant it is. A few times I have burned the floor when something on fire fell on it or molten metal or slag fell on it from welding. It is a garage floor that I also use as a workshop. It will and does get abuse in my home. None of it is peeling off. It is still protecting the concrete.
One of the biggest failures with any of these floors is poor prep. With old concrete, you need to use diluted muriatic acid to prep the surface. Most people skip this step and use some other chemical. Then the floor coating peels up like nothing. In your case, I would imagine that since it's new, you would only have to wash the floor to remove dust. If properly prepped, any of the epoxy coatings will last for many years.
The product above covers 250 square feet per gallon and rolls on. It is a one part epoxy so no mixing.
Will be looking at this option closely, thanks for the response. Sounds promising.
Rams
quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:
I used the Rustoleum Garage Epoxy kit. I made sure to prep the floor. There were a lot of oil stains in the concrete from the previous owner. I used industrial degreaser and scrubbed the floor thoroughly. Then I used my 5" random orbital sander to sand problem areas. Degreased it again then used the acid etch. Be sure you have PPE before using the acid etch. Then I applied the epoxy coating, flakes and clear coat. That was in 2016. The floor has held up well to a lot of abuse. There is paint over spray on it and I dropped a can of PVC primer on the floor. Just so you know, PVC primer will turn your floor purple. It does not matter how stain resistant it is. A few times I have burned the floor when something on fire fell on it or molten metal or slag fell on it from welding. It is a garage floor that I also use as a workshop. It will and does get abuse in my home. None of it is peeling off. It is still protecting the concrete.
Appreciate the response, have been researching Rustoleum also. Thanks again.
Rams
------------------ Rams Learning most of life's lessons the hard way. . You are only young once but, you can be immature indefinitely.
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 04-18-2025).]
One of the biggest failures with any of these floors is poor prep. With old concrete, you need to use diluted muriatic acid to prep the surface. Most people skip this step and use some other chemical. Then the floor coating peels up like nothing. In your case, I would imagine that since it's new, you would only have to wash the floor to remove dust. If properly prepped, any of the epoxy coatings will last for many years.
The product above covers 250 square feet per gallon and rolls on. It is a one part epoxy so no mixing.
Having done some research on this product, I really do like what this product offers but justifying the cost isn't going to be easy............. Yeah, I know. You get what you pay for..................
Having done some research on this product, I really do like what this product offers but justifying the cost isn't going to be easy............. Yeah, I know. You get what you pay for..................
Rams
It's very pricey and is very strong but I have also done a couple of garages with the Rustoleum and they too came out very nice. I could roll a floor jack around all day long and not damage the surface.
My current home has a three car garage. This shop (currently being put up) is 30X40 feet. One single 12 foot wide 8 foot garage door.
Two walk through doors, one in front and the other in the rear. 12 foot open lean to (roofed on the rear of the building. I want to apply epoxy to the floor before moving my tools and toys in on it and get my lift installed..
It held up to forklift traffic and sliding metal skids across the floor, as well as strong acids and alkalines.....
You probably don't need that much protection, however.
Or the price tag!
Yeah, I checked the Stone Hard coating out, definifely won't be any forktruck traffic and out of my price range anyway.
quote
Originally posted by cliffw:
Paint.
Paint isn't an option, simple foot traffic will wear it down to expose the concrete. Mostly looking to achieve a chemical and lubricant barrer. Yeah, I spill things.
Well, back to the ole drawing board. Thought I found a sealant for my new garage floor with good ratings that would protect my new concrete floor from lubricants, moisture and chemicals while providing very good wear resistance.
Was about to order but thought I'd check with a friend since he's done this before. Even though the product was supposed to be 15 times tougher than epoxy but priced within my budget, my friend reports that he picked and applied the same product to his new concrete floor and although it holds up with vehicles rolling over it in a straight line, if the steering wheels get rotated while parked, the barrier rolls up as the tire moves. He said he followed all the instructions in prep and application.
As I said, back to the search. The electrician is coming by today to tell me what he recommends for my purposes. Scaling back on some things might be my only option. I keep telling my Texas friends I'm available for adoption but.......................................
BTW, this is what I thought I was going to go with in case you're interested:
Rust-Oleum 293515 RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating, 2.5 Car Kit, High Gloss Tan
------------------ Rams Learning most of life's lessons the hard way. . You are only young once but, you can be immature indefinitely.
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 04-27-2025).]
Paint isn't an option, simple foot traffic will wear it down to expose the concrete. Mostly looking to achieve a chemical and lubricant barrier. Yeah, I spill things.
Rams
The products I've been looking at don't refer to themselves as "Paint". But, I get your point and will continue my research. Thanks for the response.
Whatever you choose, do a lighter, solid color. I had the misfortune of being stuck with a shop floor that had those tossed in speckled chips and finding that nut/bolt you just dropped was miserable.
Whatever you choose, do a lighter, solid color. I had the misfortune of being stuck with a shop floor that had those tossed in speckled chips and finding that nut/bolt you just dropped was miserable.
Initially planned on a clear coating or a light-colored version that would reflect light back up. Never planned or wanted the sparkly chips to begin with. Thanks for the response.
My father had a 7 car auto shop from 1956 until he fully retired in 1989 and never had anything but bare concrete. I grew up working in it and I can say that spilled oil soaked right in over the years and made a perfect moisture barrier. Didn't need no stinking storebought coverage/barrier.
My father had a 7 car auto shop from 1956 until he fully retired in 1989 and never had anything but bare concrete. I grew up working in it and I can say that spilled oil soaked right in over the years and made a perfect moisture barrier. Didn't need no stinking storebought coverage/barrier.
Were such coatings/barriers even available back in "56"? I believe the toxicity/stink goes away pretty quickly.
I never noticed any stink and I rolled around under many a car, both on a creeper and without. As far as reported 'toxicity', I'm still here and my father lived until almost his 90th birthday.
I never noticed any stink and I rolled around under many a car, both on a creeper and without. As far as reported 'toxicity', I'm still here and my father lived until almost his 90th birthday.
Don, I should have been more precise. I was talking about the toxicity and odor of Epoxy. It disappears in as little as 6 to 8 hours depending on the product chosen.
Originally posted by blackrams: Rust-Oleum 293515 RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating, 2.5 Car Kit, High Gloss Tan
This should be perfect. The combination of Urethane and epoxy plus polyurea makes it bulletproof. Not a bad price either. Not sure why your friend had issues with his floor.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 05-05-2025).]
A rough surface is critical for good adhesion, as is completely removing the material used to etch the concrete. Rinse, rinse, rinse and dry, dry, dry!
Then blow any dust off of the surface with a leaf blower or double filtered compressed air.
[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 05-06-2025).]
A rough surface is critical for good adhesion, as is completely removing the material used to etch the concrete. Rinse, rinse, rinse and dry, dry, dry!
Then blow any dust off of the surface with a leaf blower or double filtered compressed air.
A high quality polyurea coating includes diamond scraping of the floor, polyurea coating, seal coat, color chips if you want them, and a lifetime warranty. Typically costs around $8-$9 per square foot installed. the coating takes 48 hours to funny cure to the point where you can put vehicles or machinery on it. The price for lesser quality epoxy flooring materials is in the $6-$7 per foot range. The company I am currently dealing with is Renuity and they have been around for a while.
A high quality polyurea coating includes diamond scraping of the floor, polyurea coating, seal coat, color chips if you want them, and a lifetime warranty. Typically costs around $8-$9 per square foot installed. the coating takes 48 hours to funny cure to the point where you can put vehicles or machinery on it. The price for lesser quality epoxy flooring materials is in the $6-$7 per foot range. The company I am currently dealing with is Renuity and they have been around for a while.
Nelson
Nelson, Thanks for that information. Hoping to get that floor coating applied a couple of days before I install the two-post lift. Thanks again.
Bought enough for a 1500 sq. ft. floor, my shop is only 1200 sq. feet but I'll lay it on thick in the work and drive areas. KInd of pricey in my opinion but, I don't want to have to do it again, ever.
Rams
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 06-07-2025).]
After my purchase of the Rock Solid floor coating, due to other priorities, the shop floor had to wait. Regardless, I finally got to work on that project a few days ago. Everything I've read said that "Prep" was the most important part (along with a smooth application of the actual coating). The product I bought is a complete kit with Citric Acid, those flakes (that won't be used) and the actual coating along with the application rollers.
The directions were very clear and I followed them to the letter. What I didn't expect was having to spend two days trying to get all the slurry and dust off the concrete off the now prepped floor. The directions clearly stated that the coating should not be applied if one could swipe your fingers or hand against the floor and get any dust on that appendage. I've swept, blown out, washed, pressured washed and mopped that floor numerous times and it seems accomplishing the dust free floor is almost impossible. Yeah, I'm probably being anal about this but, I want it right. Anyway, today the shop floor gets a final mopping and once that has dried, the coating goes on.
I could have hired this project done, one quote I got was over $3K. But, I'm cheap.
Originally posted by blackrams: I've swept, blown out, washed, pressured washed and mopped that floor numerous times and it seems accomplishing the dust free floor is almost impossible. Rams
Yep, tried that also, just left it off the list. Due to what the instructions said, I elected to do the final step (coating the floor) after dark. The instructions (which I followed to the letter) stated that sunshine affected the curing process. This stuff is too expensive to take a chance so, I started rolling the floor coating about 9:00 PM last night, got finished a little after midnight. The coating is no longer tacky but, still a bit soft so nothing else will happen for a few days so I don't screw this up. But, it does look really good. Has the color I wanted and almost a mirror finish reflecting light.
Won't be posting pictures here but, I'll send anyone interested pics via text if they really want to see the whole process. Just sent me a phone # via PM.
Completed coating. My shop floor half way through coating and when it's been completed and done. As you can see, the etching process makes the floor look like crap.
For those who may wonder, the completed floor had been curing for about 8 hours when the first photo was taken. Those bright spots are a reflection of the ceiling lights on the floor. While my efforts were not perfect, I'm happy with the end results. The one problem I could not overcome was those dang insects that kept landing on the wet floor surface. Some of them are permanently entomb in the Rock Solid. It is, what it is.
Next, onto the two-post lift installation. Will wait a few days on that to ensure the Rock Solid is completely cured. I put on a pretty thick coating.
Rams
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 06-20-2025).]
Whatever you choose, do a lighter, solid color. I had the misfortune of being stuck with a shop floor that had those tossed in speckled chips and finding that nut/bolt you just dropped was miserable.
Just an offer but, I did follow the advice and did not use the "Speckled Chips" so, if you're needing any, just send me your address and I'll send you six unopened packages. Other than throw them into the garbage, I have no idea what else to do with them.
I have no idea what it is in the garage as it was here when we bought the place 3 years ago but The floor of my garage was coated with 'something'..what, I do not know. According to neighbors, at one time, it was also afterwards completely covered in some kind of pads that left little round suction cup like spots on the sprayed or rolled down covering when the previous owner removed the padding. The covering is pretty durable but the downside is that any time I or wife comes or goes and turns the steering wheel more than a few degees it leaves ugly black tire marks on the gray surface. Hopefully, your covering won't do that.