Front only D-cams cam still work for "rear enders" because shows your car didn't move until impact.
Then use a Phone cam to take more pictures to add to your case. Because Most people still don't know Phones and most others Dig cameras will add Time Stamp, GPS data and more as "hidden"
EXIF data. (Wiki) So even when you set a camera don't stamp the pic, still have a lot of EXIF data and view even in Windows' File Property pages.
Rove "makes" a lot of D-cams. I Don't use them because of cost and more features don't need.
Some "Notes:"
Supercaps won't die from heat vs any lithium batteries. So most D-cam last way longer.
Only battery is "nice" because LiIon can save settings and keep time when you don't drive a car every week "minimum." But even they won't protect for weeks...
So I don't drive "every day," When I plug in the cam I look at screen to see look same "wide screen" format. If cap died then camera reset to all defaults and looks different. If have Reset, then have to set Time or Time Zone for GPS and other functions again. Works w/ all defaults but time is off and more.
Park Features need Extra Wiring and "box" so the camera won't kill the car battery. How long that will happen depends on car battery type and size + standby power car will use too.
I forgot to unplug the cam on the Fiero w/o park features and car battery died ~ 2-3 days. Many New models have big AGM batteries but just dies after more time.
Many new models have Aux plugs and USB ports that shut off because of this problem from charging phones, Garmin et al, dash cams, etc sucking down the car battery.
So either needs Park "module" added to work in park mode.
Put Biggest SDcard in them w/ most D-cam more so w/ multi cams.
And Don't buy no-name ones. Big video eats space and need fast SDcards.
I only get ~ 8-10 hours w/ current unit w/ 256GB SDcard because each 3 minute video section uses 616MB and that just 1 cam unit.
Small card means have less record time also means "eats" lifetime of SD to repeat deleting "old" video.
If you only drive to local stores and job then smaller cards maybe ok.
Because Long Record time is 2 Edge too because seized card can show a lot of history to cops etc.
No matter SD size, save video elsewhere after a wreck. Even take the card out before towed because expect car will have stuff stolen in private lots or seize/search if Impounded.
Note the crash video is often marked Read Only
and often in another folder as many crashes auto save that way because "tripped" G locking but may need other video sections before or after a crash. In some "minor" crashes may not auto protect from auto delete old videos.
WiFi Cam may have problems in cars w/ built in WiFi. Sim problems w/ Bluetooth. Two Radios acting as Access Points next to each other can make too much "noise" and connection crawls to 1 or both. That's on top of other WiFi AP close to your car may cause same problem.
Many only can store video to SDcard
or Phone connected to them Not Both @ same time. If you think will use phone, try DL the cam manual before buying.
Note that if you think using phone "Cloud..." Live Stream 2 X... etc. That can affect save video size and more. Very Compressed video for this often looses a lot of details etc that can see easily watching video on SDcard.
Many new D-cams can easily read a Tag many feet to yards away. Not like many just a few years ago that only get lucky reading Tags by "tailgating" during daytime only and "right" lighting and Best Video quality set too.
⚠️ Warning: Audio Recording is Regulated under Anti Bugging and other Laws in many places.
This is why most D-cams default to Off for this feature.I have it On for the Fiero because I'm only one in the car. Other car is Off because Anti Bugging and have other people that require Notice.
He's a REAL piece of work.
