I have a very old but now defunct (thank the Lord!) self propelled walk behind that is way to heavy to push with the wheels dis-engaged and way too damn slow to follow when the drive is engaged.
When I 1st got the farm I didnt have a rider yet, just a walk behind. The field beside the house was YUGE ! (about 125' wide x 400 long).
I made a 2-point rope harness for the mower, and tied the other end of a 50-foot rope to a stake in the ground. Put in a second stake about a foot away, start it up and sit back and have a beer. until it reaches center or needs gas.
Move it over and start on the next area.
It took all day to cut that field. I called it being smart, Diane called it being lazy.
[This message has been edited by MidEngineManiac (edited 05-26-2019).]
As the caretaker of a rather large yard myself, I bet that if he were to ask Diane to mow that yard by hand one time, her opinion on the smart vs. lazy debate would change radically.
I have a Craftsman 2000 just like it. About 8 years old. It's been a good one. They have two common problems. You should put a cutoff valve in the fuel line. The carb tends to let the gas flow into the crankcase while it's parked. The OHV engine rocker arm nuts will loosen over time. When it begins to act like the battery is low but a couple of bumps will get it going, have the valves adjusted.
This is the third mower of the 2xxx series I've had. They had different series numbers and about 1/2 HP difference each but they were the same base engines. The first broke a rod when it dropped a valve. The second got to the point the valves wouldn't stay adjusted for more than a couple of mowing sessions.
I have a Craftsman 2000 just like it. About 8 years old. It's been a good one. They have two common problems. You should put a cutoff valve in the fuel line. The carb tends to let the gas flow into the crankcase while it's parked. The OHV engine rocker arm nuts will loosen over time. When it begins to act like the battery is low but a couple of bumps will get it going, have the valves adjusted.
This is the third mower of the 2xxx series I've had. They had different series numbers and about 1/2 HP difference each but they were the same base engines. The first broke a rod when it dropped a valve. The second got to the point the valves wouldn't stay adjusted for more than a couple of mowing sessions.
Hi fierofool,
Former owner must have installed the in line fuel cutoff valve. He did not tell me about the problem you mentioned I did experience that and figured out using the cutoff valve by myself. When it happen to me, the engine acted like it was hydro locked, fully charged battery would not kick it over. I pulled the sparkplug, and a good deal of fuel poured out of the cylinder. I put the spark plug back, and the starter cranked like normal and the engine fired right up.
Could you post a photo of your engines right side ? I'm looking at mine, and it looks like something is missing. I'll post the area I'm questing
Here's the cutoff valve
Any tips on draining the crankcase & filter ? Looks pretty straight forward.
[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 06-05-2019).]
I see he added a fuel filter, too. My oil filter is on the left side positioned horizontilly. The engine uses 30W non-detergent oil. I usually fill the new filter quickly then let it soak in before installing it. That way it doesn't have enough in it to spill and it prevents a total dry start.
The area you show beside the dipstick tube is a little different on my engine but there's nothing there. Looks like it's a place for something, though. An external accessory of some kind. An hour meter, maybe?
To drain the oil, remove or loosen the dipstick and remove the cap on the drain then twist about 1/8 turn and pull the nipple outward. The mower came with a clear vinyl tube that fit over the nipple so the oil didn't drain down the side of the frame. Something I have found on all the engines is that they don't refill with the amount of oil that the manuals say they require. It will usually take less than a quart to refill it back to the full mark. I usually start it for 10-15 seconds then let it sit. Then check the oil again and top it off if needed.
The symptom of hydrolocking is the same symptom you will get when the valves start to get loose, so if you cut the fuel off every time and start getting hydrolock, check the valves. The one I mentioned that dropped a valve and broke a rod was also run with a crankcase full of gasoline due to the leaky carburetor needle. A home-based small engine guy told me about the B&S carbs and their need for a cutoff valve.
I see he added a fuel filter, too. My oil filter is on the left side positioned horizontilly. The engine uses 30W non-detergent oil. [
This, is important. 10+ yrs ago, when I worked at a Kubota dealership but worked on every make or model, we saw lots of B&S engines ruined from people running 10w-30 or 15w-30 in their riders. The engines just get too hot to be able to run blended oils.
[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 05-30-2019).]
I have a 21 year old Craftsman riding mower with a 17hp Kohler engine that runs perfectly after all these years with fully synthetic 5-30W. I remember when I added the full synthetic oil the engine immediately rotated quicker upon startup and ran much much quieter without all the clickity-clack using the 30W. Maybe it's the Kohler's full pressure oiling system?
This, is important. 10+ yrs ago, when I worked at a Kubota dealership but worked on every make or model, we saw lots of B&S engines ruined from people running 10w-30 or 15w-30 in their riders. The engines just get too hot to be able to run blended oils.
As some here know, although I am retired, I work (part time) for an auto parts supplier/store. I am constantly amazed (although I know I shouldn't be) at how many folks have never opened the operators manual on the mowers, cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc. to learn what oil the engine was designed to operate on. Most just put gas in it and go.
Reference autos, I hear this consistently when I ask specific questions in order to help them, "I don't know, I just put gas in it".
Rams
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 05-30-2019).]
Good point, Rams. I bought the last 2 mowers as used mowers. They didn't come with an Owners Manual. I went online when I needed a deck belt for the first used one so I could get a part number to crossreference to Ace Hardware. The closest Sears Parts Distributor is 35 miles from me.
At the same time, I downloaded the manual. Not just to see how to route the belt, but for other maintenance tasks like leveling the deck and to know what oil to use.
The former owner told me to run the throttle at full power when cutting the grass. Said any less would use more fuel and would put more stress on the engine.
What do you all think, where do you all set your throttle when mowing ?
Small engines are governed to increase fuel feed under load. Run it wide open, it puts the engine in it's power band and moves enough air to keep it cool.
If you didn't get an owners manual, you can probably find it online.
Those mowers have a small detent area about halfway up between idle and choke. You can feel it as you move the lever up and down. That's probably where B-S intended for it to run, but to get full throttle, you would have to move it up to determine where the choke takes over. Never heard the theory about running full throttle before. Interesting.
Going back to the area where it appears something bolts on. Mine is plastic and it's part of the dipstick tube. Bonded to the tube. My engine is also an 18.5 HP engine but the plastic piece is shaped similar to the casting of your block. It also looks as if your oil filter stands upright. Mine is positioned horizontally.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 06-05-2019).]
A few months ago, I hit an exposed tree root which broke a mounting tab on one of the spindles.
Bought a pair of replacement Craftsman Husqvana spindles for just $41 dollars on Amazon. Decided to replace both and put new blades on. Painted the deck before reassembling. The mower cuts better and quieter than ever.
quote
fierofool] Those mowers have a small detent area about halfway up between idle and choke.
Yes, that is what the former owner meant as "full throttle"
[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 04-18-2021).]
I have a Craftsman 2000 just like it. About 8 years old. It's been a good one. They have two common problems. You should put a cutoff valve in the fuel line. The carb tends to let the gas flow into the crankcase while it's parked. The OHV engine rocker arm nuts will loosen over time. When it begins to act like the battery is low but a couple of bumps will get it going, have the valves adjusted.
This is the third mower of the 2xxx series I've had. They had different series numbers and about 1/2 HP difference each but they were the same base engines. The first broke a rod when it dropped a valve. The second got to the point the valves wouldn't stay adjusted for more than a couple of mowing sessions.
your exactly spot on. I had a simular model (not a Craftsman), changed the oil, and had lots of fuel in the crank case!! Yikes!! Good thing the crank case didnt blow!! other than that, it was a work horse. Had it about 25 years. you may have to oil, the shaft that turns the bladed. it becomes dry, due to the grass, drying around that area, and doesnt turn as well. you'll need some jumper cables because those little batteries are junk. Good Luck, with your score.
Most B&S engines use a variable LOAD governor but it is best to run them up on the gov stop notch as Olejoedad said. You control the throttle but the gov handles the load.
