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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-07-2018).]

wax, coat whatever you are going to use as a backer that you'll remove after the hole is filled and cured..

why fiberglass, and not two part epoxy?

[This message has been edited by E.Furgal (edited 02-08-2015).]

Plastic like the big bags merchandise is wrapped in works well. I used to sandwich work with the stuff when patching holes in my hover to cut down on the amount of finishing required. Used to also cover my work surfaces with it when doing things like glassing propellers.

Protective gloves and clothing you do not care about will keep it off you. I second the epoxy suggestion. In fact you can add many things to the slurry such as sawdust, glass bubbles or even strands the make as fricken strong as hell putty for hole patches.

quote Originally posted by Red88FF: Plastic like the big bags merchandise is wrapped in works well.

Polyethylene...same stuff used in rolls of vapor barrier or as plastic drop-sheets(for painting and such). Not much sticks to it or (chemically) melts it. It peels right off fiberglass resin after it's cured.

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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-07-2018).]

You can put a piece of cellophane tape across the hole, then peel it off after the fiberglass hardens.

quote Originally posted by tshark: Thanks for the answers. Epoxy is hard. I want to retain the pliable nature. If I could find a plastic piece, I would. Hmmm. I guess I could replace the whole bucket, but it'd be hard to find one any nicer than mine.

How big is this hole? It's big enough to where you are concerned with flex?

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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-07-2018).]

I doubt fiberglass is a good choice to repair that. It probably won't stick to the bucket. Harbor Freight sells plastic repair kits that might be a better option:

http://www.harborfreight.co...lding-kit-60662.html

Silicone maybe?

I would get another spare tire bucket - but that's me...

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Calgary time/temp

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT Click me
Super Duty 4 Indy #163 Click me

http://pages.ebay.com/link/...291178057049&alt=web
This + jb weld

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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-07-2018).]

For some ironic reason, the only thing I find that fiberglass wont stick to is most other plastics. If it gets on most, all you have to do is flex it a bit and fiberglass resin, matt or fibers pop right off. It will usually stick to a scratched up gel coat. Thats the reason I dont find using fiberglass a good choice for modifying Fiero body panels. It also is not long lasting in doing mods to metal bodied cars either. It always will eventually separate or crack at the edges. If I ever used fiberglass on customizing a metal body, I made sure to cover that whole panel with a layer to keep its integrity. Out of thousands of car shows, ive yet to find a car with a metal body with a fiberglass hood scoop molded on that hasnt cracked after a few years...unless they covered the whole hood with fiberglass.

Does the "tub" move around enough to be worried about flex.. ?
not knowing where this is in the tub, Hint a photo would help/
If it is 1/2 and round, Electrical boxes, and parts, have 1/2 round plugs you pop out to run romex, boxes are most times blue and gray, and some outdoor use are black..(if you choose to prep like listed below the plug color won't matter)
fit to hole, and plastic weld(you can get by with a solder gun) from the back side that you don't see, add a little plastic filler, to the top side, sand smooth, and then paint the tub with SEM plastic interior paint..
the paint won't flake off if you clean the tub and prime it, with their primer.. both are at most local parts stores..

http://www.tcpglobal.com/au...ydepot/semindex.aspx

or go to a craft store and get a hole plug, used for piggy banks/etc.. packages here come with 5 different sizes, an auto parts store would also have grommet plugs.

maybe this will help..

[This message has been edited by E.Furgal (edited 02-09-2015).]