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Help finding a capacitor by Rodney
Started on: 03-27-2014 12:50 PM
Replies: 27 (270 views)
Last post by: Rodney on 04-09-2014 09:47 AM
Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 12:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Our treadmill is acting up. I found a place that can repair the circuit board. They maybe messed up when they asked if there was a blue capacitor in line to the motor. It may be bad. It is actually on the circuit board. 1.500 uf and 250 volts. About 2 5/8" tall and about 1 3/8" in diameter. Where to find one? I would like to put in a new cap before I send out the board for repair. I can send a picture if anyone needs one. It is your typically large sized cap in the blue can.

Thanks
Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 12:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero STSSend a Private Message to Fiero STSEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That says 1500 uf. Mine is 1.5 uf

Rodney
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spark1
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rodney:

That says 1500 uf. Mine is 1.5 uf

Rodney


r u sure? 1.5 uF would usually be much smaller without trailing zeros.
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

jaskispyder

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quote
Originally posted by spark1:


r u sure? 1.5 uF would usually be much smaller without trailing zeros.


my thought also.
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nurb432Send a Private Message to Nurb432Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero STS:

Try here

http://www.digikey.com/prod...=0&fid=0&pageSize=25


or jameco.com
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nurb432Send a Private Message to Nurb432Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nurb432

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quote
Originally posted by spark1:


r u sure? 1.5 uF would usually be much smaller without trailing zeros.


ya, 1.5 is pretty small....
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Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It is 1500 uf. Hard to see if that is a . or ,

Thanks
Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nurb432Send a Private Message to Nurb432Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rodney:

It is 1500 uf. Hard to see if that is a . or ,

Thanks
Rodney


Perhaps? http://www.jameco.com/1/1/1...-105c-10x21x5mm.html
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Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Mine is the mount on a board type with 2 wire leads.

Rodney
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Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rodney

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Here is one but the overall size is smaller:

http://www.amazon.com/Alumi...+capacitor+250+volts

I can make this one work. Would it work the same as it is smaller in size?

Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nurb432Send a Private Message to Nurb432Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rodney:

Mine is the mount on a board type with 2 wire leads.

Rodney


So was the one above.. perhaps a picture will help
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post03-27-2014 01:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nurb432Send a Private Message to Nurb432Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rodney:

Here is one but the overall size is smaller:

http://www.amazon.com/Alumi...+capacitor+250+volts

I can make this one work. Would it work the same as it is smaller in size?

Rodney


If the leads will match up to the holes physical size isn't important, its the ratings that matter.

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Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 02:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:

http://www.mouser.com/Produ...RVwz%252b2CmhTKpZw== ??


Bought 2 so I have one spare if I need it later. I can remote wire it to the board if the leads do not fit. There is a ton of room under the cover.

So cool more and more take PayPal now. A few lines to fill in. On to PayPal and confirm and my order is done. How cool is that.

Thanks!!

Rodney
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Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 02:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rodney

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One trick I devised a long time ago (I'm sure others do it). Once the old component is removed heat up the solder on the board one hole at a time and quickly blow real hard at the board close to your mouth. Blows the melted solder out and the new component usually goes right in the holes. You might have to do it a few times.

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Rodney
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Report this Post03-27-2014 03:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rodney

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quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:

http://www.mouser.com/Produ...RVwz%252b2CmhTKpZw== ??


I'll admit I bought this one because it is closer in size to the one on my board now.

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Report this Post03-27-2014 06:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for silver 85 scSend a Private Message to silver 85 scEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Report this Post03-27-2014 06:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nurb432Send a Private Message to Nurb432Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rodney:

One trick I devised a long time ago (I'm sure others do it). Once the old component is removed heat up the solder on the board one hole at a time and quickly blow real hard at the board close to your mouth. Blows the melted solder out and the new component usually goes right in the holes. You might have to do it a few times.

Rodney


That is why we have desoldering braid and vacuum bulbs. ( tho i stopped using bulbs after i grew up )
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Report this Post03-28-2014 12:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Nurb432:


That is why we have desoldering braid and vacuum bulbs. ( tho i stopped using bulbs after i grew up )


No more solder sucking?

Blowing molten solder seems a bit dangerous to me though I have tapped on a board or two on a bench to remove solder.
Using wick is a better way.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 03-28-2014).]

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Rodney
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Report this Post04-02-2014 04:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well the capacitor did not seem to help. But I did find a video of the same treadmill and mine makes the same noise:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgb2TY3WCkg

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Rodney

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jaskispyder
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Report this Post04-02-2014 04:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
bad bearing?
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Rodney
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Report this Post04-02-2014 04:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The noise in my opinion is the brushes. My opinion was the signal from the board was bad. It is a simple brush motor. Same as hand drills etc. In my opinion the feed from the board is erratic and causes the brushes to bounce or something??

Rodney
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Rodney
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Report this Post04-02-2014 05:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rodney

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I sent some emails to some local electric repair places. A guy called and offered some suggestions. He says it is not the board. Maybe a lifted commentator. He says disconnect the drive belt and rotate the motor. If it makes the noise twice per revolution it is a raised commentator. So maybe I will need a new armature. New motor is $500. New armature is still probably $300 I bet. I think I am on track now to getting it fixed.

PS: replacing that capacitor was a joy. The board was clear coated and the capacitor was glued around the rim to the circuit board. I had to pry it up slightly with a screw driver while I heated one leg. Then use a scalpel to cut the glue joint. Then heat each leg etc. But I got it.

Thanks
Rodney

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Report this Post04-02-2014 07:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Nurb432Send a Private Message to Nurb432Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rodney:

I sent some emails to some local electric repair places. A guy called and offered some suggestions. He says it is not the board. Maybe a lifted commentator. He says disconnect the drive belt and rotate the motor. If it makes the noise twice per revolution it is a raised commentator. So maybe I will need a new armature. New motor is $500. New armature is still probably $300 I bet. I think I am on track now to getting it fixed.

PS: replacing that capacitor was a joy. The board was clear coated and the capacitor was glued around the rim to the circuit board. I had to pry it up slightly with a screw driver while I heated one leg. Then use a scalpel to cut the glue joint. Then heat each leg etc. But I got it.

Thanks
Rodney


Should have told us why you were doing it in the first place Would be free to check out the motor...
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Rodney
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Report this Post04-02-2014 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I took a cover off the motor and could look at the armature/brush area. One commentator is burned. Since I can't get a new armature for this motor I decided to try cutting the wire to that commentator. The motor still worked but once I got on the fuse in my house electrical panel blew. So this motor is junk unfortunately. So I'm going to buy a new motor. But I thought it was the board so I'm ahead. New motor is big bucks but without it the treadmill is junk. We bought it like new used for a bargain price so not the worst.

Thanks
Rodney
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Rodney
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Report this Post04-09-2014 09:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageSend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
New motor is in. Works like new. Just one of those things. Something shorted in a winding. But no service call and got it right the first time so no not needed parts were bought and tried. Well I did put in a new capacitor that was not needed and I have 2 spare capacitors now. But that was not that much compared to buying a new $500 control board or a service call by a tech.

Rodney
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