im changing the driver side axle and i find out theres a seal on the back of the rear spindle.the parts suppliers are vague about what seal fits where.anyone know a parts number?the hub had a little play so another ones coming.
Just to add some context to this, the seal should come with two things, actually. There's a rubber O-ring gasket (that goes between the rear knuckle and the wheel hub) and the seal which is pressed into the back.
One of the reasons why they don't even mention these anymore, is because the wheel hubs are sealed bearing hubs now. Back with the original design, they weren't designed the same way as they are today. You needed that seal in there to help prevent water, dirt, etc., from intruding into the wheel hub bearing.
The replacement wheel hubs for the Fiero are very similar (just different fitment) to what's offered on most cars today, like... my Pontiac Solstice, or my Ford Explorer Sport. Neither of those cars have a rear knuckle seal. The hubs are just bolted to the knuckle with three solid bolts, and that's it. So... you really could do without that seal. For that reason, there are few, if any, parts suppliers that still make that seal because it's just no longer necessary.
That said, it can't hurt, and I had my daughter install new seals when she re-did the rear suspension on her Fiero:
My daughter mentions it at @8:50. I also had her install the dust shield between the hub and the knuckle, which is not how it's originally called for, which is to install it on the face of the hub, between the bolt head and the hub face. It made more sense to put it between for better fitment.
Just to add some context to this, the seal should come with two things, actually. There's a rubber O-ring gasket (that goes between the rear knuckle and the wheel hub) and the seal which is pressed into the back.
One of the reasons why they don't even mention these anymore, is because the wheel hubs are sealed bearing hubs now. Back with the original design, they weren't designed the same way as they are today. You needed that seal in there to help prevent water, dirt, etc., from intruding into the wheel hub bearing.
The replacement wheel hubs for the Fiero are very similar (just different fitment) to what's offered on most cars today, like... my Pontiac Solstice, or my Ford Explorer Sport. Neither of those cars have a rear knuckle seal. The hubs are just bolted to the knuckle with three solid bolts, and that's it. So... you really could do without that seal. For that reason, there are few, if any, parts suppliers that still make that seal because it's just no longer necessary.
That said, it can't hurt, and I had my daughter install new seals when she re-did the rear suspension on her Fiero:
My daughter mentions it at @8:50. I also had her install the dust shield between the hub and the knuckle, which is not how it's originally called for, which is to install it on the face of the hub, between the bolt head and the hub face. It made more sense to put it between for better fitment.
thats what threw me off.ive replaced axle hubs before and they were sealed.since i ordered the seals i might as well use them.there are no stops in the knuckle.i guess i just tap it in flush at the back?but theres a drain there.
thats what threw me off.ive replaced axle hubs before and they were sealed.since i ordered the seals i might as well use them.there are no stops in the knuckle.i guess i just tap it in flush at the back?but theres a drain there.
Yes, correct... there should be no play between the hub and the back of the axle shaft. It should be flush against the back of the wheel hub, and then you torque it down to something crazy. Make sure you look it up, but I think it's something nuts like 170 ft-lbs... but please don't take that as gospel.
Every Moog hub I've ordered came with the O-ring and the seal. Well, one from Rock Auto came in a battered and beaten box with just the hub.
Anyway, I would suggest that if you haven't removed the old seal yet that you take a measurement with Vernier Calipers to determine the depth that the rear seal sits in the back of the knuckle. If it's not positioned properly, the flange on the axle can cut into it, or if it's seated to deeply into the hub, it will be ineffective at keeping water and debris out of the hub. If you don't have calipers, take a look at the mating area of the old seal and try to determine the depth. You might even use a small metal ruler to gauge the depth.
In case you aren't aware of it, The Ogre designed an installation tool from PVC pipe that works perfectly for installing the seal. A length of PVC pipe, a coupling and a pipe cap.
Richard, if you've never replaced one before, I suggest you take a small wire brush or some scotchbrite and thoroughly clean the inside of the spindle bore. Clean out the little weep hole at the bottom of the bore that lets any water out that might get inside the bore. Once the seal is installed, lightly coat the inside of the bore with high temp disc brake grease. By lightly, I mean just enough to know that it's coated. Just stay clear of the weep hole. The grease will help to collect any dust and sediment that might get inside so the drain hole doesn't get clogged.
Yeah, the one my daughter installed... it didn't come with any of the seals because like your new one, it's a sealed bearing unit too. We still bought the seal and such, even though it wasn't required... I figured keeping water out would still prolong the life of it. I had her cover it in bearing grease so that when installed, it would help coat the inside... just to be on the safe side.
Richard, if you've never replaced one before, I suggest you take a small wire brush or some scotchbrite and thoroughly clean the inside of the spindle bore. Clean out the little weep hole at the bottom of the bore that lets any water out that might get inside the bore. Once the seal is installed, lightly coat the inside of the bore with high temp disc brake grease. By lightly, I mean just enough to know that it's coated. Just stay clear of the weep hole. The grease will help to collect any dust and sediment that might get inside so the drain hole doesn't get clogged.
i have a wire wheel for a drill that fits perfect. everythings shined up and ready to go. hub gets here friday. seal saturday. i hope they are early. i bought a duralast seal puller to remove the trans seal. it bent all to crap.i had to slide a pipe over it to pop out the seal. the axle came out in two parts. i guess if i wasn't using the back seal i wouldn't have had to transfer the shield over to the new axle.
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