Thanks to all that replied especially Joe and Richard. Confirmed that there is a +BAT connection on the fuse box and it is live.Looks like it uses some kind of one lug connector. I used a spade connector end to plug in the + lead that goes to the door lock actuator box. It fits snugly and firmly. For the negative lead I put a wire lug on one of the 13mm steering column bolts and used that. Works like a charm. All that's left is to find a convenient place to locate the actuator box up and under there. Later on I may add a DPDT switch on the console for inside control but not sure that directly energizing the actuator leads while connected to the actuator box won't burn something out.
Now that I have completed the remote door lock installation job I would say that a medium, skill level can do it. There is some cutting light fabrication/fitting and soldering. For a first time effort I would allow about 6-8 hours to get this job done. A good add-on option for $25. Makes door unlocking convenient for driver and passenger
UPDATE: The power door lock control box on my set up was small enough to fit under the panel below the steering column but you need to remove the front two 7mm hex head screws and loosen the rear screws to allow the panel to drop down. Was the perfect place to locate the aftermarket control box but they may not be the same size for all installs. Tip- the box contains the needed relays so no extra relays are needed. Just need to wire it for alternate positive/negative toggle operation,
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE " [This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-04-2025).]