Oil extractors work on some vehicles but do not work on others. The Fiero has a very small diameter dipstick tube. It may be hard to get the extractor tube down to the oil pan. My extracor works great on my Chrysler 300 but it still is not the best way for an oil change..
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I'm afraid to ask... but do you change your oil filters?
Of course. Yeah, I get dribble down there and have to jack up the car.
My Ferrari (308 GTS QV) has the oil filter on the top, which is a joy to change because the car needn't be jack up for the extractor and the oil filter has already drained so doesn't dribble when you remove it.
Oil extractors work on some vehicles but do not work on others. The Fiero has a very small diameter dipstick tube. It may be hard to get the extractor tube down to the oil pan. My extracor works great on my Chrysler 300 but it still is not the best way for an oil change..
Thanks for the information. Yeah, I compared how far the plastic suction tube gets down the dipstick tube compared to the dipstick itself and see that there must be some sort of constriction down there. I'll try to find a smaller diameter tube for next time (I just changed the oil the old-fashioned way) (blah).
Regarding your comment "not the best way", I am not sure what the problem is. I suppose it depends when there bottom of the dipstick tube lands. I would have (if it worked) pulled the drainplug just to see how much oil I was leaving behind. Friends with other cars report that the dipstick method leaves only a couple of ounces behind which is trivial for a 4 liter oil change. The filter has been picking up any crud that actually circulates.
I'm afraid to ask... but do you change your oil filters?
... Actually, to be totally transparent, I tend to change the oil filter every second year / oil change. I only put about 1,500 miles per year per car and changing the filter every time seems like overkill. Admittedly, the Fiero gets flogged; I am headed out with it to Thunderhill Raceway on Sunday for the 5-mile course.
Friends with other cars report that the dipstick method leaves only a couple of ounces behind which is trivial for a 4 liter oil change.
Perhaps, but it's the worst "couple of ounces" of oil in the whole engine!
quote
Originally posted by Brian A:
The filter has been picking up any crud that actually circulates.
Brian, if you've ever removed an oil pan from an engine with some miles on it and seen what's sitting on the bottom, I think you'd understand why most of us here are aghast that you don't remove the drain plug and allow a lot of that crap at the bottom of the pan to drain out.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-02-2025).]
Brian, if you've ever removed an oil pan from an engine with some miles on it and seen what's sitting on the bottom, I think you'd understand why most of us here are aghast that you don't remove the drain plug and allow a lot of that crap at the bottom of the pan to drain out.
Good point.
Yes, I have removed oil pans. I guess I've never seen a really bad one. Admittedly this is my first US car; all the rest have been Japanese or European.
Yes, I have removed oil pans. I guess I've never seen a really bad one. Admittedly this is my first US car; all the rest have been Japanese or European.
this explains alot acutally. ok so you have to get used to american cars being "nice" but built to the lowest spec that didnt kill (alot of) people for the most part. american engines until the 90s were almost exactly what they were in the 60s just with fuel injection and maybe more plastic so changing the oil through the drain plug is generally a good idea on american cars and changing the filter everytime with a decent filter is a very very good idea. i own a million mile ford and the oil and coolant changes it got before my ownership were the only reason it got there at all, still worn out just not a failure yet so change the oil through the plug and running a little marvel mystery oil through the oil 50 miles before you drop the oil is a pretty good idea as long as you change the filter as it cleans up the varnish, fiero engines last generally about 150k on the v6 before it needs the main bearings and rod bearings replaced to keep going, good engines just a outdated design
Engines that are especially bad for sludge buildup are ones used in cars that are used mainly for short hops around the city, where the engines don't really get hot enough to burn off all the condensation in the crankcase. Add to that perhaps infrequent oil changes and it's a recipe for a real goopy mess.
... and changing the filter everytime with a decent filter is a very very good idea.
I selected the AC Delco PF52E based on what I read on this website. My oil religion is Mobil1 0W40 Euro Blend Synthetic.
quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:... fiero engines last generally about 150k on the v6 before it needs the main bearings and rod bearings replaced to keep going, good engines just a outdated design
Gulp. Mine is at 151,000. What are the symptoms?
(Car was used as a freeway commuter car for 20 years, parked for 20 years, then I bought it to turn it into a track car.) (Price was commensurate with condition.)
A connecting rod sticking out the side of the block.
Regular maintenance probably has more impact on engine wear (or lack thereof) than simply mileage. If you don't hear any unusual ticking or knocking sounds, or see blue smoke pouring out the exhaust tips, your engine is probably good for a while.
(Car was used as a freeway commuter car for 20 years, parked for 20 years, then I bought it to turn it into a track car.) (Price was commensurate with condition.)
freeway miles should be ok. and its gonna be the idle oil pressure, general rule is 10 psi per thousand rpm minimum til it hits 60 psi so as long as its above 15 at idle it should be ok my 88 was like 12 and didnt get better but didnt get worse. my 2.8l s10 and 4.3l s10 both get 25-30 at idle (the 4.3l gets closer to 45 but i dont trust the reading) but youll hear ticking or knocking when its an issue because it will starve the lifters and bottom end of oil and be real loud before it gets close to hucking a rod. sorry if my wording earlier sounds like this is a huge huge issue because generally its not something thats gonna happen without ignoring a few major signs first and like patrick says its gonna depend on quite a few factors and generally fieros with v6s make it to above 200k before they really need bearings (ive seen a few hit 450k in my local club which is crazy on stock bottom end stuff) your oil choice is pretty good but you should run a zinc additive since the 2.8s are a flat tappet engine that like zinc for the camshaft (again ancient outdated designs) i think its half a bottle of the racing zinc additive and a bottle of the blue oil treatment bottles....do not run rotella its the wrong zinc and causes more issues than it solves (i learned that the hard way on my 69 455 and boy that was and still is an expensive lesson) so as long as it has zinc and oil changes every 3500-5000 and there isnt water in the oil and you drive it until its at operating temp it should live a long life yet
I'll try to find a smaller diameter tube for next time (I just changed the oil the old-fashioned way).
I have the same fluid extractor that you have, and if I remember right it comes with a couple different lengths of tubing of different sizes. Maybe using the smallest size you'll be able to get it further in.
I've not used it for oil on the Fiero, but I have used it for ATF on a few cars, including the Fiero, and for that it works great.
I live in California so have to keep the catalytic converter alive. My Fiero does not consume oil so it can probably tolerate some zinc.
The Mobil1 0W40 European Car blend as about 1,100 ppm zinc so has zinc but on the lowish side.
So, it's a balance for me of keeping the lifters alive vs the cat. Then again cats are cheaper than engine rebuilds.
your at about the limit of the zinc the cat would deal with long term. as long as its zddp zinc you have more than 70s oil and it should be perfect a high flow cat might end up a better option but i dont know CA emissions rules despite owning a CA emissions ford truck
It has been a very long time since I have seen a Fiero V6 dipstick removed, but on the LS engines, the dipstick body is pinched to create and O-ring groove. So these would have an internal step right where they enter the block that the hose would need to get past. The dipstick tapered end, which makes it easier to pass the step, but a hose will have more issues.
It has been a very long time since I have seen a Fiero V6 dipstick removed, but on the LS engines, the dipstick body is pinched to create and O-ring groove. So these would have an internal step right where they enter the block that the hose would need to get past. The dipstick tapered end, which makes it easier to pass the step, but a hose will have more issues.
The best explanation!
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
