On a serious note, my daughter just swapped this out, and replaced all the O-rings in that area. We've been going through every part of the HVAC system and replacing the O-Rings with the green ones, and we of course, replaced the old A/C compressor. Is there any concern on this dirt being all over the inside of the AC lines? I checked at multiple points and it was totally clean everywhere except for here...
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I've used compressed air to clean out the lines, but thus far, I've seen nothing in the lines anywhere. I'm concerned though the evaporator coil (or whatever it's called that sits in front of the radiator) probably has gunk in it.
The condenser is in front of the vehicle, evaporator is in the hvac duct. They're two long lines under the car but also some that run the sides towards the condenser. The hard part on these cars are all the low points that unless you have a compressor with enough cfm/flush machine it's hard to get clean on the car.
I had the necessity to pull everything off mine so easy access wasn't an issue.
The condenser is in front of the vehicle, evaporator is in the hvac duct. They're two long lines under the car but also some that run the sides towards the condenser. The hard part on these cars are all the low points that unless you have a compressor with enough cfm/flush machine it's hard to get clean on the car.
I had the necessity to pull everything off mine so easy access wasn't an issue.
Best of luck getting it straightened out.
Thanks, I appreciate it. The A/C compressor has apparently been bad for over a decade. It's on my daughter's car, and she's only had it for 2 years. The previous owner (who had the car for almost 20 years) said the A/C never worked... haha... so it's all really old. It was still pressurized though when I removed the lines.
I know debris wouldn't be great for the new compressor, but is it reasonable to think that the next filter would catch most of the stuff in there, and I could just change it out again? (if cleaning the lines doesn't work)?
Stingray92 already told you this is called "Black Death".
But try your way first - it is only time and money...
But to me, I rather not waste effort by attempting a shortcut; I use the old saying:
"Do it right the first time"
Haha... you're starting to get like Ogre. I already said I was going to flush the lines as recommended. I was just curious if there was anything I missed... could I expect the new filter to catch the debris?
Frankly Todd, I didn't see that you'll flush the lines as recommended....
Good luck
Most of the stuff I think I can easily clean, since I think I can get the condenser out... and maybe should just replace it anyway... but it's the hard lines I'm more concerned about.
Come on man, you are really getting like Ogre. They can be flushed, he literally says this even though he titled it as something you can't... he says it's just not cost effective because it requires too many cans of AC flush.
This wouldn't be a problem if this was a late 90s Civic. But this is a Fiero. There's only one company remaking them, and they're $650 bucks.
You might think of why it is called "black death". Also, flushing you A/C line with compressed air can introduce moisture into your A/C system, even if it has been discharged. Which is a contributor to black death.
I have worked with A/C experts.
Black death originates inside the A/C compressor. When recharging an A/C system, the compressor needs new oil.
I am above my pay grade.
quote
The lack of oil causes the Teflon seals to wear, which in turn causes wear on the cylinder, scroll, and vane The wear creates fine metallic particles that accumulate throughout the system, clogging the filter in the orifice tube or the port in an expansion valve.
When the system fails, you have to replace the compressor, the expansion devices, and the condenser, along with a complete flush of the hoses and the evaporator. It’s critical to remove all the debris that spread throughout the system.
You might think of why it is called "black death". Also, flushing you A/C line with compressed air can introduce moisture into your A/C system, even if it has been discharged. Which is a contributor to black death.
I have worked with A/C experts.
Black death originates inside the A/C compressor. When recharging an A/C system, the compressor needs new oil.
I am above my pay grade.
Oh yeah, I get it. Everything is going to be new. I'm probably going to have to change out the condensor... it's just a huge cost... $650 is more than I paid for the machine work, and on a car that I've already spent $15 grand on, haha...
A/C compressor is new. I'm upgrading to the V5 already too. I had to get a hose set from an 86 Iron Duke to replace the one from my daughter's 85.
I didn't name call... but can you see how the following comments are at the very least "passive aggressive" or a little obnoxious sounding? I appreciate the help, but again... is it necessary to be condescending?
- Stingray92 already told you this is called "Black Death". - Frankly Todd, I didn't see that you'll flush the lines as recommended.... - Perhaps you didn't watch the link Todd...
Maybe you don't realize how some of the things you say come off sounding?
If it were mine, this is what I would do. Replace broken bits. Clean as best I could. Vacuum and recharge system. Drive the car around for a little while. Then discharge the system and replace the orifice tube again because I am willing to bet more crap will be stuck to it. I have had this happen to me. Yes, it costs money but trying to buy a condensor is ridiculous for our vehicles. Unless we use a complete custom unit, which now that I am thinking about it this may be something I do later down the road.
BTW, that passive aggressive thing is ridicoulous on this forum. Not really sure why either. I have been around a lot of car forums and this site takes the cake on this for certain.
[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 03-03-2025).]
If it were mine, this is what I would do. Replace broken bits. Clean as best I could. Vacuum and recharge system. Drive the car around for a little while. Then discharge the system and replace the orifice tube again because I am willing to bet more crap will be stuck to it. I have had this happen to me. Yes, it costs money but trying to buy a condensor is ridiculous for our vehicles. Unless we use a complete custom unit, which now that I am thinking about it this may be something I do later down the road.
BTW, that passive aggressive thing is ridicoulous on this forum. Not really sure why either. I have been around a lot of car forums and this site takes the cake on this for certain.
Thanks Spade, I think that's what I'm going to end up doing. I've spent a lot of money on this car, and I don't mind spending it where it's needed... but $650 on a condensor is pushing it just a tad for me... especially because the one that's on there looks decent, and everything comes apart pretty well (I haven't had any seized joints like I did on my 87).
I've seen this occasionally on the Corvette Forum too (though not with me). It's kind of a "learn the way young grasshopper" kind of attitude. But I'm 46-47 years old (I forget), haha... it's like, I appreciate the effort, people don't HAVE to respond to my questions, but just be nice, damn. Haha... thanks.
Been busy with work today so trying to catch up on this.
The hardest part in my opinion with flushing the system is getting the gunk out. Low points in the system are hardest to deal with.
I had my complete system out of the car a couple years ago. This afforded me the opportunity to flush each component separately. I too used compressed air in conjunction with a lot of solvent. The hardest part is all the u-bends and sandwiched plates.
Now I was super fortunate to get my hands on an nos condenser and that saved me a lot of headaches I'm sure.
If I was faced with your situation yeah, I'd likely try to do it with components in the car but I'd isolate where feasible.
I don't know how well a professional flush machine works but I'd think you'd want to agitate the solvent as it's moving through the components.
After all that you've got to get the proper amount of oil in the various components. I only did this after putting a vacuum on and doing a leak check.
On my car, I took every component off and flushed them with FJC solvent, and a flush gun hooked up to a compressor. Flushed everything except the new compressor, new accumulator, and a used condenser I got off another car. Flushed all the lines, hoses, and evaporator.
If you're lucky, any minor debris left over after flushing everything will get caught in the orifice tube screen. If you're unlucky, it'll punch through the screen material and into the new compressor, grenading it, too. If you're really worried about debris, you can get the new system working for a week, recover the refrigerant, and inspect the new orifice tube.
I flushed the evaporator and under car lines. I captured the flush, filtered it and flushed the evaporator and lines several times until it came out clean and did a final flush with new AC flush. I used Nylog Blue on all the O rings, no leaks so far.
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Oh yeah, I get it. Everything is going to be new. I'm probably going to have to change out the condensor... it's just a huge cost... $650 is more than I paid for the machine work, and on a car that I've already spent $15 grand on, haha...
haha ? $15k is a good investment for a dependable vehicle. People make $500.00 dollar monthly payments on a new car loan. I always believe, that instead of paying a monthly car loan, invest your monthly money into your vehicle expenditure needs.
haha ? $15k is a good investment for a dependable vehicle. People make $500.00 dollar monthly payments on a new car loan. I always believe, that instead of paying a monthly car loan, invest your monthly money into your vehicle expenditure needs.
Dude, there are many times where I'm like, I should have just bought my daughter a 2020 Honda Civic and called it a day. But if you've seen the videos she makes, she definitely loves this, and it's daddy / daughter time that she'll always have, and you can't put a price on that. Well, I guess I can... haha... but it makes it worth it.
Years ago I did an ac repair on a ford (known for black death). Owner had replaced the compressor multiple times and had properly flushed everthing he could multiple times. Nothing seemed to help until I installed a 'universal inline ac debris filter'. He would get a season out of it before it would would need a change but he no longer had to replace compressors. Link included for your review.
Amazon.. TSI Supercool 13128 Universal High Side In-Line Filter
Years ago I did an ac repair on a ford (known for black death). Owner had replaced the compressor multiple times and had properly flushed everthing he could multiple times. Nothing seemed to help until I installed a 'universal inline ac debris filter'. He would get a season out of it before it would would need a change but he no longer had to replace compressors. Link included for your review.
Amazon.. TSI Supercool 13128 Universal High Side In-Line Filter
I TRIED installing these on a cracked line, they leaked the moment the car moved. 0/10 do not recommend.
For flushing, look at a Four Seasons "59172" Flush Gun ($108 on RockAuto). Tool and video on use are both on the 4s.com website (lots of other good A/C info too). This set up lets you control the flow of the flush, then up the air pressure to keep everything moving out of the system and dry up the flush. The 4S Dura II flush (69991) is great, but pricey ($30 for 25 oz), their Tempselect flush is a little more affordable and works well - just don't see it shown on Rock.
DuraFlush (Four Season Durra II) is great, but not cheap. It's about $30 for 25 oz on Rock, also available in gallons - but didn't check the price. Most good AC shops will use it. 4S also offers "TechSelect" flush that's a little more budget friendly. If you want to see if the flush you have is any good, cut the bottom out of an aluminum pop can, clean and dry and pour a couple tablespoons of flush into it. It should evaporate very rapidly and when gone not leave any oily residue. Also, it should be non-flammable!! Some flushes that were tested actually didn't evaporate, but ate through the aluminum!!!
I've used the Duraflush on several vehicles, I'd have to agree it has served me well as it's been several years since I serviced then and they are still going well, I don't recall the price I paid but seems everything keeps increasing in price.
I TRIED installing these on a cracked line, they leaked the moment the car moved. 0/10 do not recommend.
The one I posted was not the one I used and It's been a while so I can't remember the brand but they all work the same. I had good luck with the two or three I installed. Oh, lines were not cracked.
