Transmission internals are various grades of steel, bronze and aluminum. The case is some form of cast aluminum.
Okay thanks a lot I'll do some looking into it maybe I can find something inexpensive yet stronger it'll just let me sleep better at night with that amount of power running through it
Originally posted by Josh86gt: My bad I'm not very knowledgeable with different metal alloys but would you happen to know what type of aluminum the f40 uses so that I can find something roughly 1.5 times as strong?
The aluminium case is likely A380 or similar.
It is likely best to begin with smaller projects (for instance, basic mechanic work, installing a radio, or cutting and rewelding a new muffler) to build your knowledge of materials and fabrication methods before starting big projects.
You would be amazed at what you can get used to...
6 years and 55K miles with my LS4/F40 with 382 rwhp or between 425 to 450 fwhp. It was a blast, but I got used to it and wanted more.
Now with the upgrades and turbo, I am approaching 700 fwhp and have about 6,200 miles on it. 1st and 2nd gear is wheel spin city if I want it, 3rd is a rocket (4th would be north of 125 mph).
The car is currently getting an ecm upgrade so I can have boost by gear and traction control. Both will help detune 1st and 2nd gear so I can better match the power with the traction. Also adding an intercooler and will likely switch to e85 and start bumping the boost more in 3rd and 4th.
Longterm goal is AWD...
So to answer the OP's question (and satisfy my curiosity), would the Fiero chasis be able to handle 800 HP as is, and if not, what sort of frame reinforcing would you think would be necessary to handle that much power?
So to answer the OP's question (and satisfy my curiosity), would the Fiero chasis be able to handle 800 HP as is, and if not, what sort of frame reinforcing would you think would be necessary to handle that much power?
With the drivetrain able to generate 4000 to 5000 lb-ft of torque at the axle shafts, engine/transmission mount design, attachment to the cradle, and cradle attachment to the chassis are very important.
My preferred solution is 4 corner mounts, using captive control arm bushings (impossible for mount to break free), spread as far apart as possible front to rear, with them placed as close to the side rails of the cradle as possible. The stock rear cradle crossmembers (especially on the 88s) are not very strong, so those are typically replaced.
I am not a fan of dogbones at this power level as they change the load paths/directions to the cradle/chassis on one side of the car. Rubber or even poly cradle mounts at this level, allow deflection between the cradle and chassis, which you don't want, so solid cradle to chassis bushings are desirable - especially if you have a stock dogbone setup.
Once you have the drivetrain secure to the cradle and the cradle secure to the chassis that will take care of nearly all the concerns.
If you wanted to go 1 step further, some supports from the top of the B-pillars down to the top of the strut tower (and/or down to the rear cradle bolt attachment will help stabilize the rear of the chassis to the passenger compartment. The rear chassis structure is largely attached to passenger compartment with spot welds and not a lot of metal passing through that joint. The drivetrain torque will want to pull the tops of the frame rails from the passenger compartment, so triangulating this area would help.
Now all this assumes you have a rust free chassis. If your upper frame rails are compromised with rust, then fix that before thinking about building a high power drivetrain.
First off show us the car that you have to work with. Then let us know when you have built a powertrain w engine that dynos at 800HP and one that fits in the Fiero engine compartment. Next after you have achieved that, go visit a chassis builder. IMO there are too many issues with a 40 yr old 2800 lb vehicle that would prevent effectively getting that amount of power to the ground. BTW, what is your 1 /4 mile target ET and how much do you have to spend to achieve that goal??? Have you built any engines especially one that has that much horsepower? Don't mean to be harsh on you but his all sounds like gibberish to me.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by fieroguru: With the drivetrain able to generate 4000 to 5000 lb-ft of torque at the axle shafts, engine/transmission mount design, attachment to the cradle, and cradle attachment to the chassis are very important.
I would add that this amount of torque is achievable by powertrains with much less than 800 hp in 1st gear... so your recommendations could also apply to much more modest powertrains.
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Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Then let us know when you have built a powertrain w engine that dynos at 800HP and one that fits in the Fiero engine compartment.
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Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Next after you have achieved that, go visit a chassis builder.
If you think you will break something due to your powertrain, then you should address the frame strength in parallel with the powertrain build.
If you damage the frame because nothing was done, then you not only have a frame improvement job on your hands, but also a frame repair job. This will increase overall project cost and delay.
You would be amazed at what you can get used to...
6 years and 55K miles with my LS4/F40 with 382 rwhp or between 425 to 450 fwhp. It was a blast, but I got used to it and wanted more.
Now with the upgrades and turbo, I am approaching 700 fwhp and have about 6,200 miles on it. 1st and 2nd gear is wheel spin city if I want it, 3rd is a rocket (4th would be north of 125 mph).
The car is currently getting an ecm upgrade so I can have boost by gear and traction control. Both will help detune 1st and 2nd gear so I can better match the power with the traction. Also adding an intercooler and will likely switch to e85 and start bumping the boost more in 3rd and 4th.
Longterm goal is AWD...
Filben, are you sure about that?
Read fieroguru's build thread in the Construction Zone.