this happened a few days ago now and I cannot figure it out for the life of me starter stopped cranking the engine but the voltage would drop to 8 like it was trying to so assumed it was just done, had it rebuilt by me and then someone who knew what they were doing and nothing. had it tested and it tested like it was new I'm getting the signal to start (I think? need someone to help before I verify) and it seems like it just doesn't have enough strength to even try anymore and yes it's shimmed correctly I did check I'm gonna be pulling it again and really checking it over because I would like to drive my fiero again and this kinda makes that near impossible with it sitting at the bottom of a hill and on gravel and only having me to push it
this happened a few days ago now and I cannot figure it out for the life of me starter stopped cranking the engine but the voltage would drop to 8 like it was trying to so assumed it was just done, had it rebuilt by me and then someone who knew what they were doing and nothing. had it tested and it tested like it was new I'm getting the signal to start (I think? need someone to help before I verify) and it seems like it just doesn't have enough strength to even try anymore and yes it's shimmed correctly I did check I'm gonna be pulling it again and really checking it over because I would like to drive my fiero again and this kinda makes that near impossible with it sitting at the bottom of a hill and on gravel and only having me to push it
Seeing < 12 volts your first check should be battery then wiring. IOW Battery w/ dead cell or two or bad wiring will cause this.
Battery w/ dead cell might charge to 12v then drops < 11v under starting load & stay low. Iffy battery cables etc can do same but often doesn't stay low.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by theogre: Seeing < 12 volts your first check should be battery then wiring. IOW Battery w/ dead cell or two or bad wiring will cause this.
Battery w/ dead cell might charge to 12v then drops < 11v under starting load & stay low. Iffy battery cables etc can do same but often doesn't stay low.
got help and figured it out partially with someone turning the key while I tested the signal wire I got 3 volts out of the large purple wire and the purple and white fusible link exploded in my face (looked funny before I started honestly) and after it was done I checked the wire further up and it's a direct connection to ground as told to me by the multimeter pretty sure the fusible link is for my cold start injector based on some research I did and as for my low signal voltage I have no idea what's wrong since my neutral safety switch is already bypassed and was checked first
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 05-09-2024).]
ok, any ideas on my low voltage for the crank run in position wire? this is a manual harness
The start signal path is from the ignition switch to the clutch safety switch to the C500 E4. -Misadjusted ignition switch -Corrosion on ignition switch contacts -Corrosion in clutch safety switch
The start signal path is from the ignition switch to the clutch safety switch to the C500 E4. -Misadjusted ignition switch -Corrosion on ignition switch contacts -Corrosion in clutch safety switch
clutch switch has been bypassed for as long as I've owned the car, the Ignition switch seems likely since this had this low voltage issue after I took apart the column, will verify and clean this goes have that stupid little box that's in litterally every gm and barely changes right? if so then I have a few good spares
The start signal path is from the ignition switch to the clutch safety switch to the C500 E4. -Misadjusted ignition switch -Corrosion on ignition switch contacts -Corrosion in clutch safety switch
starter is now fixed, I redid some wiring and grounds and it's working just fine now but my idle above 1.5k is back
