actually got to put mileage on my 88 today and yesterday ~250 miles worth and I left it idling while eating in the car and it stalled and would not restart until it sat for a but, which was weird but the weirder part is now I have a huge stumble at 3k rpm and absolutely no power
Usually those go bad and the car will not start till cooling off and then work again until it warms up
I would think so but I messed around with the wiring and tps and it started running a bit better and when revved up spun up to 8k rpm so I'm guessing my cheap self should probably replace sensors and throw a gm icm in from a tested dist
yeah I did not expect the engine to move quite that fast from 2 full throttle blips normally this engine barely sees 5k because it's overheating or doing weird stuff like oh idk. blowing up its shift cables so I was suprised to learn this ecm has no cut off rpm and that the engine didn't throw a rod
actually got to put mileage on my 88 today and yesterday ~250 miles worth and I left it idling while eating in the car and it stalled and would not restart until it sat for a but, which was weird but the weirder part is now I have a huge stumble at 3k rpm and absolutely no power
I assume you don't have a check-engine light, and that there are no codes stored?
My first thought is something in the ignition. It's possible, like Jelly said, the Ignition Control Module was overhearing. I've never owned an 88, but if I'm not mistaken, they eliminated the trunk fan that's supposed to cool the coil area. Does it get insanely hot in there? May want to consider wrapping your headers in "header wrap" ... that helps a little bit with power (makes the cat work better) and really, really cuts down on heat in the engine compartment.
Ignition modules die from excessive heat. The automotive dielectric grease that is supplied with some ignition modules is not the best product to protect the ignition module from heat.
Thermal paste, that is used when installing computer processing units, is superior to dielectric grease for the transfer of heat from ignition modules or coil packs.
This link explains the use of thermal paste and the different types available. It is not expensive, especially when compared to the cost of ignition modules or coil packs that fail due to using dielectric grease or that are installed without anything to ensue good contact with a heat sink.
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: I assume you don't have a check-engine light, and that there are no codes stored?
My first thought is something in the ignition. It's possible, like Jelly said, the Ignition Control Module was overhearing. I've never owned an 88, but if I'm not mistaken, they eliminated the trunk fan that's supposed to cool the coil area. Does it get insanely hot in there? May want to consider wrapping your headers in "header wrap" ... that helps a little bit with power (makes the cat work better) and really, really cuts down on heat in the engine compartment.
0 check engine light or codes other than the Start and stop, last codes I had went away after I adjusted the tps and kind of came on while idling lower and lower but didn't store a code. my engine bay doesn't actually get that hot anymore, i can't touch the engine for more than a few seconds but it's not like my 95 gtp that will litterally take skin off in less than a second will probably make some lower intake ducts to funnel air into the engine bay to keep it cooler and maybe clear coolant better when it inevitably blows a hose up again
I doubt you hit 8 grand at the crank. More likely overshoot on the tach needle.
I would be doubting it but I've never heard this engine be that loud or take more than maybe 2 seconds to go back to what sounds like idle, that took 5 seconds and was loud enough to wake up my neighbor that's a quarter mile away which meant it was louder than his straight piped focus
starting to wonder if this thing just has a habit of destroying icms. if this one is dead or being weird thats....the 5th one? doesn't matter if I use thermal paste or not seemingly, they either last forever and run like crap or run great and die quickly
starting to wonder if this thing just has a habit of destroying icms. if this one is dead or being weird thats....the 5th one? doesn't matter if I use thermal paste or not seemingly, they either last forever and run like crap or run great and die quickly
If that is the case, I would be inclined to believe that there is something else that is malfunctioning that is killing the icms, the coil maybe.
If that is the case, I would be inclined to believe that there is something else that is malfunctioning that is killing the icms, the coil maybe.
tested coil from a 1993 s10 blazer, only icm that had lived so far was a Delphi unit that idles poorly and has no power, I checked plugs and wires but I wouldn't be suprised if im dealing with a junk harness. I have my suspicions on the entire harness being completely messed up considering it used to run the same wether or not it had a tps
It is a relatively common practice with the 2.8's to add another ground wire from the engine block to the chassis. I read about this years ago on this Forum and pooh-poohed the idea. When I finally did do it, the engine ran better and idled better.
Originally posted by 87GT3800SC5SPD: Ignition modules die from excessive heat. The automotive dielectric grease that is supplied with some ignition modules is not the best product to protect the ignition module from heat.
Thermal paste, that is used when installing computer processing units, is superior to dielectric grease for the transfer of heat from ignition modules or coil packs.
This link explains the use of thermal paste and the different types available. It is not expensive, especially when compared to the cost of ignition modules or coil packs that fail due to using dielectric grease or that are installed without anything to ensue good contact with a heat sink.
While dielectric grease isn't the best... Ignore what Tomshardware & others in the "PC world." Most push High $ "grease" that just drain your wallet for little effect. Worse, Many push "liquid metal" crap that Actively "Eats" Aluminum. (They contains Gallium etc. that attack Aluminum.) If that gets on the Distributor on most engine will destroy the Dist & Al part(s) attach to it like Intake Manifold on Fiero V6.
Dielectric grease (Silicone Oil w/ Silicone Solids) help to dump heat but also keeps water out so doesn't "rust" there or on the screws to mount the module. Any White Heat Sink "Grease" will do the job much better. (Silicone Oil w/ Zinc Oxide) Gray HS "grease" like left over product from Dell etc to service PC MoBo are good too. Most here are Non Silicone oil.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by olejoedad: It is a relatively common practice with the 2.8's to add another ground wire from the engine block to the chassis. I read about this years ago on this Forum and pooh-poohed the idea. When I finally did do it, the engine ran better and idled better.
Just a thought.
Just means Other Two Grounds from Block to Frame had problems & adding more wires can cause other problems because can make Ground Loops that causes big problems w/ ECM ICM etc.
Factory Installed... 1. Main Ground is often braided "strap" that can be replace/upgraded easy. Quick Example: www.dormanproducts.com/p-28495-60213.aspx 2. Secondary Ground just a big wire often attach between trans bell bolt & frame.
Either or very likely both have crap/rusty ends often bolted to the frame anywhere easy for factory worker to quickly screw w/ power tools.
Braided Grounds caries more Amps than similar normal wires. Don't replace that w/ normal wire.
OEM Battery Cables did not have small ground from Battery to Frame but many add it later when getting new ones. Even this can cause Ground Loops when the others above are Iffy.
It is a relatively common practice with the 2.8's to add another ground wire from the engine block to the chassis. I read about this years ago on this Forum and pooh-poohed the idea. When I finally did do it, the engine ran better and idled better.
Just a thought.
added 4 new grounds as I didn't trust the stock ones before this issue started, it had killed 4 icms before that though
[QUOTE]Originally posted by olejoedad: It is a relatively common practice with the 2.8's to add another ground wire from the engine block to the chassis. I read about this years ago on this Forum and pooh-poohed the idea. When I finally did do it, the engine ran better and idled better.
Just a thought.
Just means Other Two Grounds from Block to Frame had problems & adding more wires can cause other problems because can make Ground Loops that causes big problems w/ ECM ICM etc.
Factory Installed... 1. Main Ground is often braided "strap" that can be replace/upgraded easy. Quick Example: www.dormanproducts.com/p-28495-60213.aspx 2. Secondary Ground just a big wire often attach between trans bell bolt & frame.
Either or very likely both have crap/rusty ends often bolted to the frame anywhere easy for factory worker to quickly screw w/ power tools.
Braided Grounds caries more Amps than similar normal wires. Don't replace that w/ normal wire.
OEM Battery Cables did not have small ground from Battery to Frame but many add it later when getting new ones. Even this can cause Ground Loops when the others above are Iffy.
clean/fix see https://web.archive.org/web...ierocave/ecmwire.htm[/QUOTE] factory ground is on the headbolt like it was when I took it apart but I'll probably move it to the block eventually secondary ground i ran is going from dogbone mount on the frame side to the block battery cable has the small ground connected I'm not quite sure what it's doing with killing icms or stalling out only when idling and needing to sit for ~5 minutes or sometimes less than 5 seconds to restart as if nothing was ever wrong
yeah Im at a loss. didn't want to start back up so I poked the map sensor connector and suddenly with a loud roar the v6 came to life like nothing was wrong. either my new map sensor sucks (maybe doesn't like being mounted upside down?) or the connector is just completely junk at this point idle is down to ~1400 cold so I'm fine with that for now
[QUOTE]Originally posted by olejoedad: It is a relatively common practice with the 2.8's to add another ground wire from the engine block to the chassis. I read about this years ago on this Forum and pooh-poohed the idea. When I finally did do it, the engine ran better and idled better.
Just a thought.
Just means Other Two Grounds from Block to Frame had problems & adding more wires can cause other problems because can make Ground Loops that causes big problems w/ ECM ICM etc.
Factory Installed... 1. Main Ground is often braided "strap" that can be replace/upgraded easy. Quick Example: www.dormanproducts.com/p-28495-60213.aspx 2. Secondary Ground just a big wire often attach between trans bell bolt & frame.
Either or very likely both have crap/rusty ends often bolted to the frame anywhere easy for factory worker to quickly screw w/ power tools.
Braided Grounds caries more Amps than similar normal wires. Don't replace that w/ normal wire.
OEM Battery Cables did not have small ground from Battery to Frame but many add it later when getting new ones. Even this can cause Ground Loops when the others above are Iffy.
The main ground to the chassis is the heavy braid from the front passenger head to the passenger hinge box. The ground to the ECU is through the C500 and also directly to the ECU. The ground to the battery is to the front head, passenger side.
The main ground to the chassis is the heavy braid from the front passenger head to the passenger hinge box. The ground to the ECU is through the C500 and also directly to the ECU. The ground to the battery is to the front head, passenger side.
yeah I see an issue now. that ground has never been there and I don't know where c500 is but im willing to bet its also gone
