i noticed that someone tried to jack up my 1987 car using the radiator pipe.its maybe half closed.will one from my 1988 parts car fit it?they are both 2.5/autos with ac.

No. The 88 coolant tubes are very different from the early years.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: No. The 88 coolant tubes are very different from the early years.

well,that sucks.

See https://web.archive.org/web...cast.net/~fierocave/ crush pipes

If looks sim to that,,,
loose front nut to frame, drop hangers under rocker panel then see if can move the pipe.
Maybe not since heater & water pump hoses are short.

If not need the remove the hoses that likely means have to dremel cut wheel to cut Al crimp "clamp" for small hose.

Cut the pipe thru the crush zone, restore the shape, then use plain hose to seal.
Must support both parts & tie the back to the car so pressure won't push it out of the new hose.

WHILE hose joints have Bumps etc to prevent that. cut pipes don't SS makes near impossible to add them w/ DIY methods. Like most solder & glues won't stick to it. Some may seem to stick but isn't & fails sometime later.

If is more to front, Remove the front nut & likely the rad hose to get more room & likely leave back hoses in place.

Restore shape might be able to exhaust pipe expander to finish the job.

Doesn't have to be exact, round enough to get good flow & hose can seal.

------------------
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(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

quote Originally posted by theogre: See https://web.archive.org/web...cast.net/~fierocave/ crush pipes If looks sim to that,,, loose front nut to frame, drop hangers under rocker panel then see if can move the pipe. Maybe not since heater & water pump hoses are short. If not need the remove the hoses that likely means have to dremel cut wheel to cut Al crimp "clamp" for small hose. Cut the pipe thru the crush zone, restore the shape, then use plain hose to seal. Must support both parts & tie the back to the car so pressure won't push it out of the new hose. WHILE hose joints have Bumps etc to prevent that. cut pipes don't SS makes near impossible to add them w/ DIY methods. Like most solder & glues won't stick to it. Some may seem to stick but isn't & fails sometime later. If is more to front, Remove the front nut & likely the rad hose to get more room & likely leave back hoses in place. Restore shape might be able to exhaust pipe expander to finish the job. Doesn't have to be exact, round enough to get good flow & hose can seal.

your link didn't work for me. im thinking a bodyshop can weld tabs on it and use a slide hammer to open it back up.it doesn't need to be perfect.

quote Originally posted by richard in nc: your link didn't work for me. im thinking a bodyshop can weld tabs on it and use a slide hammer to open it back up.it doesn't need to be perfect.

The pipe is very thin to weld tabs on. You need someone that it very good with welding stainless steel to do that.

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: The pipe is very thin to weld tabs on. You need someone that it very good with welding stainless steel to do that.

i guess i'll try to find another pipe.

quote Originally posted by richard in nc: i guess i'll try to find another pipe.

I'd just cut out the squashed part of the pipe, and replace that section with a securely clamped on rubber hose.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: I'd just cut out the squashed part of the pipe, and replace that section with a securely clamped on rubber hose.

I'd do this, even if I had a replacement pipe handy, it's a kunt to replace. I'll still do What Patrick said on my own car. there's only what? 16lbs pressure on it.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 04-08-2024).]

Again, 16PSI can push the pipe out of the hose because doesn't have "Bumps."

Coolant will "leak" enough to lube a hose joint & smooth pipe can't hold w/o extra work.

Either "clamp" the sections of pipe to frame or do other things to lock them.

In my case, I used some SS flats from windshield wiper blades & extra clamps to lock D-side rear pipe to other section & support rear section too to keep it in place.
W/o it the pipe "blew out/off" & dumped almost entire coolant load on the highway in seconds. Unless someone else see it happen & warn you, you have nothing to cool the engine & often no warning of the problem because sensor needs coolant @ pressure to work right.
So no pressure, gauge can read "normal" until boils off enough to actually read same or lower temp but head etc are way overheated.