I need to replace the clutch master cylinder on my new to me '88. I've searched the forums and everything said to buy the one from Rodney Dickman. Unfortunately, according to his site, his late model clutch master is no longer available. Searching around, I see that there are a few others available from LUK, Dorman, Centric, etc. Does anyone have any experience with any of these? Any I should stay away from? Thanks in advance!

I guess there were different clutch masters depending on the generation.
https://www.fierostore.com/...00%20%20%20%20%201ST

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 03-02-2024).]

Clutch Master Cylinder for '88 {2nd Design}

I brought Schaeffler LuK LMC501 @ $40 on Amazon

{FYI - TFS sells the same part @ $95}

The hot ticket for the Getrag, these days, is whatever master slave cylinder that fits your app, and Rodney's "dual seal" rebuild kit. Assuming that is still available.

Edit - Sorry. I had a brain cramp. I was thinking about the slave cylinder. You were clearly asking about masters. My bad.
Masters haven't been as problematic as slaves, for our cars.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-02-2024).]

YES - Still Available!

Rodney's Getrag Slave Cylinder Rebuilding Parts
https://rodneydickman.com/p....php?products_id=288

Thanks! I saw that one on Amazon, and had it in my cart. I figured I'd ask here before I pulled the trigger.

My experience with clutch cylinders for the Fiero... is that it's imperative to have a dual-seal slave (ie from Rodney)... but it's not nearly so critical for the master cylinder.

Three years ago I bought the cheapest clutch master cylinder I could find at RockAuto for my Formula, and it continues to work just fine.

quote Originally posted by Vintage-Nut: I brought Schaeffler LuK LMC501 @ $40 on Amazon

See above. $12 less at RockAuto.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-02-2024).]

I bought the perfection clutch brand from rock auto for my early master cylinder, then bought the one from Rodney. Interestingly enough, the one from perfection clutch was better then Rodney's one (rodneys is likely far superior in build quality, but it wasnt accurate to my old OEM one's travel distance). I still have Rodney's installed, as it is good quality, and the problem with it isn't too big of a deal. Rodney's late master cylinder (on my dad's Fiero), does however correctly match the OEM travel, so it was certainly worth every penny paid for it. To bad he isn't able to make them any more.

I ended up buying the LUK master and went to do the install. When I took the old one out, things looked pretty nasty, but I was still able to actuate the push rod. (My clutch was frozen, so I originally thought it was the master). So I unbolted the slave and found that to be culprit. Following the advice of everything I've read here, I purchased a new aftermarket slave, and Rodney's dual seal rebuild kit to make it better. In the back of my head, I knew I should've bought everything right from the start, but always trying to save a couple of bucks...

Should have her moving soon!

Yes, neglected glycol-based brake fluids will cause corrosion from moisture contamination; especially the rear brake caliper piston actuators (a.k.a. the Parking Mechanism).

If you do not know:
DOT 3 and 4 brake fluids are hygroscopic, which means it attracts and absorbs water molecules from the surrounding atmosphere.
Once the corrosion inhibitor additives in the brake fluid are spent; moisture contamination leads to corrosion or ‘rusting’ of metal components.
These compromised metal parts can begin to slough off some of their materials.

In the past, I was 'lazy' by replacing the fluid regularly in the master cylinders only and not purging the entire system......

Not any longer!
Now, I regularly change/purge the whole system with fresh fluid to avoid problems.

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."