I have a n 86 Fiero/ F40 replica conversion with a rear plexiglass window I bought several years ago from Norms Fiberglass in Indiana. It was molded with all the vents in it. Recently, it is showing small internal stress cracking that does not yet appear to go all the way to the exterior of the window. The kit car site has been down now for some time now, so I am hoping other replica Fiero owners who moniter this forum, might offer me some advice. When I purchased this window from Norm, I ran into months of delays, unanswered phone calls and shipping promises that didn’t happen, and finally had to sic the Indiana Atourney General’s office on him to get my window. I don’t think I am his favorite customer, or I would ask for his help on this. The disturbances in the window are spreading, and it was over $3000 out of pocket by the time I received it. Assuming I can’t ultimately get a replacement,as Norm appears to be the only source willing to make them . In all fairness to Norm, the window was beautiful and perfect when I finally received it. I am trying to stop the trauma on the one on the car. Does anyone know of any special fluid that can be used to stop the spread? I really don’t know if the window is lexan, or polycarbonate. The internet suggest some fluids that seem to be used for outright crack repair, when most of my damage seems to be just internal “ frosting” with some small internal cracks, so far.
If the cracks reach up to the surface, you might be able to get some epoxy or polycarb glue to soak into them. You would have to sand/buff it out afterwards. I never had any luck at all buffing the polycarb one I made for mine, even w the right compounds. I just made a louvered rear for mine from glass I know thats not any help but good luck!
Thanks! Interesting car you have: the overall dimensions, split side windows, and front clip look more close to original than most. Mine is a more conventional replica, although it has real F40 tail lights, Veglia gauges, and somewhat close to original interior. Don’t know how to put photos on this site, but could email you some if you are curious. My original rear window was vandalized, and the replacement was a nightmare to get, having to have it shipped to Mexico. I am trying my darndest to not have to order another one!
Thanks! Interesting car you have: the overall dimensions, split side windows, and front clip look more close to original than most. Mine is a more conventional replica, although it has real F40 tail lights, Veglia gauges, and somewhat close to original interior. Don’t know how to put photos on this site, but could email you some if you are curious. My original rear window was vandalized, and the replacement was a nightmare to get, having to have it shipped to Mexico. I am trying my darndest to not have to order another one!
Weld-On makes flash-dry solvents for repairing or bonding acrylics and polycarbonates. There is a different Weld-On number for each substrate, like Weld-On 3 for Acrylic. The solvent is applied with a small plastic bottle that has a hypodermic applicator needle in its top. The tip of the needle is placed on the crack, the bottle is tipped up to let a small amount of solvent enter the crack. It flash dries to prevent melting and scarring the substrate.
If you can feel the crack on the surface, the Weld-On products can be used, but if the substrate is beginning to have hundreds of small internal cracks, then it cannot be repaired. Application of any solvent based polishes or even some automatic car wash soaps can damage acrylic sheeting.
Weld-On products can be found online or you might approach a local lighted sign company. When I had my sign company, I had a variety of Weld-On products on my shelf. A sign company may also be able to advise you as to what substrate your hatch glass is made of.
If ultimately it is unrepairable, search for Poycarbonite windshields online. There are MANY non kit car folks that make these for racing, boats, off road applications. While I certainly understand not wanting to write off a $3K investment, a new replacement might be cheaper in time / money tha trying to save one that is compromised.
Thankyou! Come to think of it, I have had this window for 3 or 4 years now, without incident. Two weeks ago, I polished the whole car with Turtle Super Hard Shell wax, and also did the window with it. I don’t know what is in that wax, but it is possible it reacted to the window. So far the damage is in one small area. I have since washed the window with a good dish soap detergent, to hopefully prevent any further damage. I will source out the acrylic repair stuff; I do believe there is an acrylic shop here in Mazatlan.
In response to Craig, the window is louvered and quite complicated. When the original one was damaged beyond repair, I had gone everywhere looking for a replacement, and the only one that had molds for this was Norms Fiberglass. Although it wasn’t my fault dealing with months of promises and no results, what I put Norm through to ultimately get the new window, probably has me on his S*#t list. Again in all fairness, the window was superb when I finally got it.
Arthur thats friggin hilarious dude lmao! The only skills I have are being too stubborn to give up and too creative to settle on one design. Steve $3k is a lot for a window, I made my first one from a sheet of poly, cut slits in it where I wanted the vents, then used a block of aluminium and heat guns to make the poly take the shape. Came out pretty good for my first try. It just got so beat up and dingy I gave up on it. U might give that a shot sometime
