Ive been reading the ebrake threads and it seems such a simple but maddening device! its prone to so many problems and a lot of posts are missing pictures...

Anyway, I'm going to reinstall my (used) left and right side E brake cables which are off car now. The main cable running to the ebrake handle is also used and never was disconnected from the ebrake handle. new rear calipers, rotors, and pads. Brakes are freshly topped off and bled. piston is backed as far out as i could make it and there is very light pad drag when rotating the wheels by hand. So far so good i think....

To attach the left and right cables to the ebrake levers do i need to compress the springs?

Once i get the rest of the cable system (equalizer, clip) loosely installled, The parking brake adjustment procedure per Pontiac service manual chapter 5 says to "make sure caliper levers are against stops on caliper housing after tightening equalizer nut." Does this mean the levers should be full forward, with the springs as uncompressed as possible, after tightening the equalizer?

Do not adjust the cables unless the Hand lever has problems. Hand lever operates between 3 to 9 clicks.
Even if you try to adjust, often the wheel cable(s) & maybe main cable are bad & can't adjust.

You have to compress the caliper springs to get them on.
Then often move the levels some to get the cable ends on the lever.

Those levers must be @ the caliper stops when E-brake is Off.

see https://web.archive.org/web...rocave/brakerear.htm etc

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

I been working on a 'Complete Brake System Service' for months and finally got the job finished......

quote gregr75: To attach the left and right cables to the ebrake levers do i need to compress the springs?

A small 'Brake Spring Compressor' like this is a plus:


Get the left and right cables in with the equalizer and clean/lube the main cable 'bolt' which the equalizer nut adjusts the system.

Spin the nut on the main cable bolt to the free end of the bolt at the last threads to slacken the left/right cables.

Install the left/right cables thru the springs on the caliper levers then start tightening the equalizer nut (which the levers are against the stops)

With the parking handle 'Off, slowly tighten the equalizer nut on the bolt and check that the levers are still on the caliper stops. (When the parking handle is 'On', you'll see that the caliper levers are NOT against the stops.)

The idea is to tighten the cables with the parking handle 'Off' until either caliper lever begins to move off from the stops, then loose the nut back to the 'free end' of the bolt until BOTH caliper levers are barely touching the stops.

Operate the parking handle several times to check that the handle should not travel more than around 6-7 'clicks'.

Also check when the parking brake is released that the dash ‘Brake’ light is ‘Off’ too! If the dash ‘Brake’ light is ‘On’ when the parking brake is released; loose the cable adjustment slightly until it is ‘Off’.

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Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 11-11-2023).]

ok thanks guys! i finally got everything hooked up and adjusted. and yes the tool pictured is a real timesaver. for some reason the left ebrake was working but not the right initially. cycling the ebrake several times seemed to get the right ebrake to start engaging. not sure why it wouldnt work initially.

also does this routing look correct? i used both "coat hanger" hooks that go into the cradle but the cable seems pretty close to the exhaust.

I'm not saying it's wrong... but I don't recall seeing that style of cable bracket/hanger on any of my Fieros. Is that factory?

Yes, the cable runs close to the exhaust, and without protection, you could toast the plastic covering. I have a sleeve made of header wrap around my cable in that area, so it doesn’t matter if it makes contact

I don't know your year/engine; however, I have a '88 GT which is different from your photos....

'88 GT - Left Rear

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 11-19-2023).]

quote Originally posted by Patrick: I'm not saying it's wrong... but I don't recall seeing that style of cable bracket/hanger on any of my Fieros. Is that factory? ]

Possibly not, im at least the 3rd owner of this car.

quote Originally posted by gregr75: mines an 87gt. i believe 88 was different from 84-87 as far as cable routing.

Yes.

Above is about right. GM had 2 wire clips/guides to keep the cables contacting exhaust or handing down too far but most are missing now for many reasons.
OE clip setup are shown in other "books" including 86 87 (page 5-14 5-13 respectively.) Fiero FSM.
They are not tight & move some as you pull/release the lever. GM use Wire but other things can work but may not last. Example: Tie Wraps may work but most fail exposed to heat, oil, UV, & more depending exact ones used.

Longer clip Hard to see in FSM etc. Goes to a slot on bottom of the cradle then hooks to the main cable to keep away from the exhaust parts.

One is "S hook" was to tie up the "equalizer" that I rework to ties main to left wheel cables to keep main away from the exhaust. If you keep both @ GM location, can add the extra support here like Small hose clamp left lose will do.


the cable will be happy as long as don't touch the Exhaust pipe or clamp. Between heat & vibration the E-clamp can try to saw thru the cable.
But @ same time, don't pull it onto the cradle edge tight for same reason because cable need to move.

If you're worried about heat after that. use same heat block tape for wires. RD & others sell that.

Main cable has support "clamps" where goes over the left wheel parts but someone made the above one.
They don't need a tight clamp, just something to keep away from axle etc.