I’m new to the form. Not sure if I did the list right the last time but I’ll try again. I got the catalytic converter removed last year thinking that’s what where it was coming from. I was driving and the car quit. I could still smell the rottin egg smell and then I noticed the battery as swelled. I replaced the the icm battery and new coil. Next day same thing. I replaced the icm and battery. I took a volt meter to see if it was over charging but I didn’t notice it was by idiling turning a/c on and checking it like that. But something is making it over charge while I’m driving I’m thinking and burning i icm out. I did put in a new coil as well. So I’m thinking it could be the alternator I guess. But not too sure. Any thoughts ? Thanks Rennie
Get a multimeter, they are only a couple of bucks. Start the car and find out what voltage is pumping out. No point in throwing a 200$ alternator at a problem until you know for sure you actually have a issue there.
Get a multimeter, they are only a couple of bucks. Start the car and find out what voltage is pumping out. No point in throwing a 200$ alternator at a problem until you know for sure you actually have a issue there.
Keep us posted
I believe I did say that I checked the alternator in my post. So I’m no sure if it happens when I’m driving the car that it might be over charging then.
Anyone that can’t meet there payments that has a Loan threw a bank that are months past payments. I go and reclaim the item for the lender. Bikes trucks cars boats . ECT. ( Repoman)
But something is making it over charge while I’m driving
quote
Originally posted by Cannings:
1237 with lights on and A/c on as well. Don’t change much at idle
12.37v.... and you think it's overcharging? That doesn't make any sense. With the engine running, the alternator should be supplying the battery with 14.6v
What's the battery voltage with the engine not running and nothing turned on?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-23-2023).]
12.37v.... and you think it's "overcharging"? That doesn't make any sense. With the engine running, the alternator should be supplying the battery with 14.6v.
I was thinking that the first time cause the battery was bulged , unless that happened in the winter. The other battery I bought just went dead . When I drive the second time with the new battery check engine light came on little longer car quit. That battery was low on volts and the icm was burnt out again.
12.37v.... and you think it's overcharging? That doesn't make any sense. With the engine running, the alternator should be supplying the battery with 14.6v
What's the battery voltage with the engine not running and nothing turned on?
The ICM can die due to several reasons. Lack of proper heat sink compound (thermal paste) between the ICM and distributor base and/or faulty pickup coil (not ignition coil) and/or simply a poor connection to the harness. There may be other reasons as well, but those are at the top of the list.
Well, when you eventually figure out whether you have a clutch or not ... I'll tell you that it's a lot easier to swap out the alternator on these cars that have a manual transmission than it is with an automatic.
If you end up swapping out the alternator, perhaps upgrade from the original SI unit to a superior CS one. Very simple upgrade, plenty has been posted here about it.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-25-2023).]
I hear that taking alternator's out of theses cars is not so easy.
You heard correct, a few years ago a member spent xx hours trying to free an alternator from a 2.8 with automatic transmission. Sometime during the agony he accidentally dropped it. Probably got a bad cramp in his hand and it fell to the ground right through all the obstructions. The look on his face must have been priceless!! Others had some much difficulty they would disassemble both the old and the replacement to get the job done. So much for the warranty.
Let us know how you make out. Also Youtube is your friend. Share your experience.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
Patrick, sorry to off topic on post, but you mentioned icm. have a 87 gt 2.8, started car drove around the block, as pulling up it idled down to 800 rpm( usually 1100) and died. now will turn over but no spark. no start. i noticed alot of corrosion when cap popped. bad pickup? or bad icm ?
One key point. All brands of ignition modules are not the same. IMO, some of the cheap imports are of questionable quality. AC Delco has been the most reliable brand but I've had luck with Standard Motor Parts as well. Installed properly with thermal grease these should work.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
That doesn't make any sense. With the engine running, the alternator should be supplying the battery with 14.6v
... I'll tell you that it's a lot easier to swap out the alternator on these cars that have a manual transmission than it is with an automatic.
