I wanted to check with y'all and see if this is cause for concern or if I can leave it as is?
As you can see from the photos, inside the frame you can see what looks like some rusted up platform with a short rod in the middle of it which goes through the bottom as if something is supposed to connect into it. The rear right one is very loose while the rear left one is a little loose but more stiff. Do I need to somehow cut these out and replace them? Do I need to do anything? Etc
Those are called witch hat nuts. The rear cradle bolts thread into them. They should be able to move side to side, and front to back slightly to accommodate some variations in cradles, but should not spin. The common failure is they start spinning in the spot welded sheet metal that holds them in place.
This is excellent news, Thank you all for the help.
Are there instructions that come with these Rodney Dickman parts or is it pretty straightforward? This is a new endeavor for me so I just want to make sure I get it right.
[This message has been edited by Cunnive (edited 01-02-2023).]
Spray w/ enough penetrating oil and let it work for days if can. Keep applying oil every day @ minimum.
Even if you replace the nut, can save the bolts that's harder to replace and often cost a lot.
Note: Stuck Front cradle & other suspension bolts can be save following my Cave, Bushings
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Spray w/ enough penetrating oil and let it work for days if can. Keep applying oil every day @ minimum.
Even if you replace the nut, can save the bolts that's harder to replace and often cost a lot.
Note: Stuck Front cradle & other suspension bolts can be save following my Cave, Bushings
Your link to the fierocave isn't working but I did have a question. How do I remove the old mounting nuts? I am assuming its welded in which case I will need to cut open the side panel into the area and cut it out?
Originally posted by Cunnive: Your link to the fierocave isn't working but I did have a question. How do I remove the old mounting nuts? I am assuming its welded in which case I will need to cut open the side panel into the area and cut it out?
link works for me on several machines.
If nuts are rusty etc then metal holding can fail and let the nut spinning. So use some oil and allow time to work. Above coating may help the frame but use anti-seize on the bold too.
Above "nut" has metal holding it that's welded but actuals nut are floating as others said.
Rear Nuts float to allow large tolerance from the cradle to fit right. Front bolts go thru rubber bushing that allow centers to "self adjust" when all holes don't align 100% for same reason.
Note: If cradle is out/loose... Install front bolts first then rear.
On this page http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=276 on the Rodney Dickman website, he shows that you need to cut an opening in the frame in order to get access to the inside to install the floating nut. Is this also true for installing the weld-in option?
Originally posted by Cunnive: On this page http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=276 on the Rodney Dickman website, he shows that you need to cut an opening in the frame in order to get access to the inside to install the floating nut. Is this also true for installing the weld-in option?
If your nuts are not spinning in the sheet metal holder, then I wouldn't do anything. Just put some anti-seize on the bolts when you put them back together.
If you don't want to cut the frame rail (I don't like that method either), then you might want to check out my post in this thread that shows how you can remove them and then weld a nut to a bar and slide it back into place. You don't need to save the witch hat nuts if you want to buy some new M12x1.75 nuts. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...110502-1-079522.html
Originally posted by Cunnive: On this page http://rodneydickman.com/pr....php?products_id=276 on the Rodney Dickman website, he shows that you need to cut an opening in the frame in order to get access to the inside to install the floating nut. Is this also true for installing the weld-in option?
"they" cut the frame because too must work to pull the rear off. You already have done that so no point.
If the metal over the float nut or nut itself is "dead" then need to cut/grind the metal... To replace the nut w/ above as well even if bolts come out normal.
Small drill bits and more could do that.
Dremel w/ flex tool could likely do that but flex tools don't like max speeds that most rotary tools can make. (A lot of "bits" and more hate high speeds too but very few give directions about best speeds for whatever.)
Sharp chisels could work too. Dull and chisel bends the thin metal way before tries to cut.
I got the parts out of the frame and it went a lot easier than I anticipated. I wanted to show what they look like for anyone else who might be doing the same thing.
