87 GT


Do you think I will be able to reflare this? There is also an 85 SE at the junkyard, could I take this whole brake line part from it? What are my options.

I would say it depends. If the line is rusty then I would not even try to re-flare the end. If the line is solid and it has not see any salt / not in the rust belt then its worth a try. That is typically what happens when a brake line has not been removed for a very long time. Where the nut seizes around the brakeline then when you try and take it apart you think that the nut is unscrewing but you are actually twisting the line instead of the nut being unscrewed. It should not take an excessive amount of force to unscrew the fitting, if it does, apply a bit of heat from a propane torch making sure you are not close to any rubber seals / rubber flex lines on the front brakes. The heat will help break that connection between the nut and the brake line.

Your line looks solid but still a risk if it is from somewhere in the rustbelt. You will have to cut away some of the protective guard around the brake line and then cut a small piece off the end to get a clean cut to flare. It may or may not work depending on how much you have to cut off and how much clearance you are going to have to connect back to the fitting.

I can't comment on the compatibility of years in terms of what brake lines will fit what years but I did replace all of my brake lines with used brake lines that were from a donor car from Mike's Fiero Parts which I believe is in Las Vegas. For the most part it was pretty easy to replace all the brake lines, just takes some time. That one runs from front to back and you have to take out the spare tire and plastic part that the spare tire sits in along with a clamp / bracket where it goes through before it connects to the brake master cylinder.

Also, if you do not have enough clearance to re-connect, then you can cut off the brake line somewhere further back, then remove some of the protective guard, flare it there and then put a new piece of brake line with flared ends to connect back to the brake line. I believe there is a post with all the fittings and brake line sizes. Where I am at compression fittings are not legal so any time you connect brake lines it has to be flared ends.

[This message has been edited by nero (edited 04-09-2022).]

Thats a 35 yr old brake line. Its a bummer when this happens but it does. You may be able to repair it by cutting and flaring but you may need to replace it. The Fiero Store sells new brake lines but if it is a short line you can buy the line and make it yourself. Some auto stores carry pre-made lines that just need to be bent.

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"THE COLUSSUS"
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quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Thats a 35 yr old brake line. Its a bummer when this happens but it does. You may be able to repair it by cutting and flaring but you may need to replace it. The Fiero Store sells new brake lines but if it is a short line you can buy the line and make it yourself. Some auto stores carry pre-made lines that just need to be bent.

That looks like its the Driver's side rear its going to be a longer one. Single tube from the passenger T. You can still bend and diy it.

⚠️ Warning: Flaring or even Bending old lines can, often will, fail and likely soon.
"Old" is any line has been in service even for a day in many cases.

Lines get "Work Hard" for dealing w/ line pressure that can be 700 - 1200+ PSI.
Lines also get rust pits inside.

Both makes lines to have stress points very easy and fail now just to flare or soon after often at the Worse times.

If you splice old line w/ new... use Brake Rated compression fittings. Do Not use parts for normal plumbing or unknown parts even if look same.
Normal plumbing parts can fail because never made to handle 700 - 1200+ PSI.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Brake lines can be replaced, more importantly that is a nice rust-free looking undercarriage!

If it were me, I'd probably give it a shot. If you don't get it right, you'd have to replace the line, but you would have if you didn't try to reflare it anyway.

Yep, its a washington state car so there is rust on the battery tray but other then that it is spotless.

My tool from autozone seems to have been used even though it was packaged, because the teeth on the 3/16th hole where all mangled up, and the line would push right through the tool. But luckily I went upstairs to my 3D printing closet and snipped off some TPU filament (basically rubber), stuffed it in the hole with the line and that worked a charm. I had to relocate the line bracket a little to the right, but it seems to clear everything pretty well. Now I just gotta hope it doesnt leak on me.

[This message has been edited by Xenoblast (edited 04-11-2022).]