Can someone provide some info on how the wire that connects to the electronic trunk release is routed and what the connects looks like?
My Fiero has an LT1 swap and all I have it a single cut wire hanging from the rear deck lid that routes to the rear trunk release. when I provide power to the wire the actuator pops the trunk. Should I not be able to find the original connector and If I had to route a new wire from the rear deck lid to that stock fiero trunk switch what wire on the connector would I need to tap?
The stock setup used a flat 3 or 4 pin connector at the right trunk hinge. The wire to the release solenoid was routed through the decklid reinforcement rib. There is a small hole in the rib near the hinge. I installed a release into a base 88 coupe by using a piece of single strand uncoated aluminum wire inserted at the solenoid end, pushing it down to the hinge area, then snaking the single wire back through. I had clipped a terminal from a piece of scrap harness, spliced it to the wire and inserted it into the stock harness connector.
That wire would be the hot wire when the release button is activated. The solenoid grounds through the latch and loop on the body. At least 2 of the wires running through the connector and deck lid rib are for the trunk light switch. If the car didn't originally have a trunk release, one of the cavities on the trunkside harness will be vacant. That's the one for the solenoid power wire.
Looks like my actuator stop working now. I can't get it to active anymore. Wonder if some how I messed it up during my testing. If I choose to run a new toggle switch to it do I need a relay?
It depends on year of car and trans... 84 is different and doesn't use relay. Switch goes direct to solenoid. 85 has relay but lid is wired different 86-88 has relay have 4 pin connector at right hinge.
85-88 Interlocking Relay wiring depends on trans type. If you change auto to stick or maybe other way then likely someone rewired this part.
Quick test put jumper on the solenoid and frame/engine then push lock switch. The solenoid won't work w/o grounding the solenoid body.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Looks like my actuator stop working now. I can't get it to active anymore. Wonder if some how I messed it up during my testing. If I choose to run a new toggle switch to it do I need a relay?
Clamp a jumper cable to the solenoid and the trunk latch loop then briefly apply power. If it's good it will click.
Plug is likely deleted AC Clutch relay same as other relay there and not used w/ Power Latch.3 Latch Relay is under the dash and very different type.
OE 85 C402 is near there has blk/wht wire. I don't have pic/note saying what type connector used. Think might be 1 pin weather pack same as OE O2 sensor but flipped so factory can't confuse them and plug in wires wrong.
Next thing is C500 pin A1 when turn back to black wire in car side to the relay plug under the dash.
Is likely someone hack the wiring to add PL and other 1/2 is hanging down and worse now melted if hits the exhaust. OE GM connectors are air/hydro crimped and never fall off the end to look like that. Wire shown is way too short. Rubber thing is "seal" where wire goes into the lid and wire need to reach the other part connect w/o pulling that when lid open/close.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-07-2022).]
