All in the title, for some reason it feels like the socket just hits the block and can't go down all the way onto the plug. I dont know if I'm doing something wrong or if my socket is too thick or what.
First things first, use a light and a mirror to get a good look at what is moving and what is not.
To remove the spark plugs...
- remove all 3 spark plug wire boots from all 3 spark plugs below the rear window - use an air can or air gun to blow debris out from around spark plug base - use a pick to scrape/dig around all 3 spark plugs to remove any remaining debris - again use an air can or air gun to blow debris out from around spark plug base - spray some PB Blaster around all 3 spark plugs and let that soak over night
- NOW you are ready to attempt to remove the spark plugs, using a spark plug socket that has rubber gasket inside the keep it centered around porcelain tower, making sure the socket is fully seated on the spark plug base, with a ratchet and short extension, firmly and swiftly you want to crack the spark plug loose, then ratchet it out.
Disclaimer: In very rare cases depending how rusty it is or how long the spark plugs have been in there, the spark plugs can break off in the head when trying to remove them, but again that's very rare, and that's why its wise to follow the instructions above to minimize that risk.
You will need to use a thinwall socket to get down into the spark plug well and reach the plug. That will work provided the plug is not heavily rusted
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Does your socket fit on the trunk side spark plugs? As the heads are the same, if it fits one head it will fit the other head. Keep in mind that the plugs are slightly angled in the head and the angles are reversed front to back.
A lot of dirt builds up in the plug well on the bank under the rear window. It may take some digging, spraying, blowing, and repeating the process until you can get the plug well cleaned up enough to allow the socket to fully seat around the plug.
Since you're working blind, sometimes it helps to close your eyes while trying to fit the socket. I know, it sounds weird, but as I said, closing your eyes sometimes helps visualize what your fingers are feeling.
Just a slight clarification... it's the front plugs you're having a problem with.
Although not entirely necessary... I find it makes working on the forward bank of the engine a lot easier if I remove the decklid. (I also have the "recall" strip on the front edge of my decklid which makes access even worse.) There are four bolts holding the decklid to the hinges, and a grounding wire. When I remove the decklid, I place a large piece of corrugated cardboard (ie the flattened box from a hot water tank) on the roof, and then I stand in the trunk and lift the decklid onto the roof.
The cable restraints on the hinges will prevent the hinges from hitting the rear window... but just in case they're corroded and/or damaged in some manner, place a length of wood along the entire width of the rear window before removing the decklid. It's very unlikely to occur, but you sure wouldn't want an accident resulting in a broken back window. Better safe than sorry.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-06-2022).]
Does your socket fit on the trunk side spark plugs? As the heads are the same, if it fits one head it will fit the other head. Keep in mind that the plugs are slightly angled in the head and the angles are reversed front to back.
A lot of dirt builds up in the plug well on the bank under the rear window. It may take some digging, spraying, blowing, and repeating the process until you can get the plug well cleaned up enough to allow the socket to fully seat around the plug.
Since you're working blind, sometimes it helps to close your eyes while trying to fit the socket. I know, it sounds weird, but as I said, closing your eyes sometimes helps visualize what your fingers are feeling.
Good luck!
Yeah the trunk side came out with zero issues, it's just weird now that I cannot seem to fit a socket on the rear bank. I'll see if I can get a pick or something in there and scrape out the well.
Using just a pick to clean out the plug well probably won't be sufficient. You will need compressed air to do it properly, as skybax has outlined. A pick will leave some of the debris and grit and even though you get the plug out, that grit can and probably will fall into the cylinder. This can destroy the piston and cylinder wall. If you don't have compressed air, try to find a source. A long-tipped air nozzle works well because you can insert it down alongside the plug.
First things first, use a light and a mirror to get a good look at what is moving and what is not ...
Skybax has outlined an excellent process for you. This is also an application for a cell phone: I fire up the video with the LED light 'on' and then lower/snake-in the phone to the areas I'd like to see better. Works like a charm.
If you don't have compressed air, try to find a source.
I go the other route. I suck the grit and crap out of there using a shop vac. Putting the open end of a 1-1/4" hose right over the spark plug works very well at removing anything loose located at the base of the plug.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-05-2022).]
As others have said, it is essential that the plug wells be clean before any attempt at removing the spark plugs.
However, it is possible that your plug socket's OD is too big for the plug wells. I had an 86 Firebird back in the day with the same 2.8L V6, and my Craftsman plug socket simply wouldn't fit the plug wells. I bought another socket and turned it down on a lathe:
The OD of the Craftsman socket is 0.886"; the modified one is 0.810". I don't know whether I needed to turn it down that far, but then it fit the Firebird and it's the only one I've used on my Fiero. But I just went out to the garage and checked (on the #3 plug), and the Craftsman socket fit nicely. So did a slightly bigger S-K that I have. So I guess I'd make sure it's the socket that won't fit into a clean plug well... but it's possible.
There are numerous spark plug sockets made by different companies- each is different in OD....I have some that are very thick (Large OD) and I have some with a very thin wall (Small OD)...Check around if you need a smaller socket.
Note; Just checked and two of mine are .86"...One is .87", and one is .84"......one of the .86 ones and the .87 one are Craftsman- but very different years.
[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 03-05-2022).]
I don't think you need anything special. I have an old K Mart socket set I'm sure I paid less than $10 for in the early 90's that had a rubber lined spark plug socket that works great.
