I never really had any success with a vac bleeder, same problem, air getting in. What you need are so called "one man bleeders" that have a spring loaded ball valve in the bleeder itself. Work great, even better than the two man open, push, close, release, repeat method of old.
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What you need are so called "one man bleeders" that have a spring loaded ball valve in the bleeder itself. Work great, even better than the two man open, push, close, release, repeat method of old.
Agreed. Speed bleeders are great. Replace the old bleeder nipple with the speed bleeder, put a clear hose on the bleeder and the end in a jar of brake fluid (so you can see the air bubbles), crack open the bleeder 1/2 turn and pump the pedal until no more air bubbles come out.
I've never had acceptable luck with speed bleeders, I have however fallen in love with Phoenix reverse bleeders. They pump fluid in the bleeder and out the master, the brakes on my truck have been trash for years, this was the first device I have used to successfully get all the air out. https://www.speedwaymotors....CSE)%20(Bing)&utm_te rm=4577404346894399&utm_content=All%20Products%20(Feb28_2020)
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
"Using a Vacuum Brake Bleeder" Vac bleeding often needs "sealer" for bleed screw. Take bleeder out, coat screw threads w/ some Brake Grease, then put screw in nearly all the way to close. Leave "runoff" grease that pushes out of threads alone during bleeding. Should solve your air leak problem and act as anti-seize later.
"Speed bleeders are great." Sadly Not. They hold brake fluid under the ball that draws a huge amount of water then the water often attacks the screw and caliper shell welding the screw in the hole. If you find a way to stop that, "water" carrying road salt and other pollution will have more things to attack and have same problem. Even worse for people don't use bleeder caps. I'll never recommend them to anyone except maybe race people that bleeds the system a lot per season.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Most of our Fieros are show or hobby cars. I have tried all brake bleeding methods and have settled on the Russell speed bleeders P/N 639580. I bleed every season and have never had a problem. Have had decent luck with the vacuum bleeder but as Theocre has mentioned you need to get a good seal on the bleeders. I have used Teflon thread sealer with success.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I have used the Motive Products bleeder, you pump it up like a garden sprayer, and it forces fluid through the system via the master cylinder reservoir, works great. Hardest part is getting the adaptor seated and sealed on the reservoir, pump it up then open up the bleed valves.