I'm looking to replace my clutch, and am in the process of dropping my 84 Duke's cradle in accordance with the alternate method that does not require dropping the engine:
http://www.fierofocus.com/a...20Ken%20Campbell.htm
I've done many of the steps besides the removal of the exhaust, tie rods, and drive axles, but I'm stuck on removing the parking brake cables from the cradle. I've tried the recommended methods like the hose clamps, and I just can't get the damn things loose! The three parts just will not depress, and being inside the cradle I can't access it and it's difficult to get anything in there. I've also tried needle nose pliers on recommendation from a friend with lots of wriggling, and twisting wire which broke off on the clamp....
Here's some pics:

How it looks

From a hole in the bottom - broken wire...

Outside view with needle-nose pliers

I'm considering just cutting the cables at this point but I want to avoid that if at all possible. What methods have worked for you guys? Really just want to get the new clutch in and it back on the road...

I prefer to undo those cables at the brake calipers, leaving the cradle end attached.

Remove the brake cable from the calipers by compressing the return spring. Wiggle the inner cable out of the arm. Then remove the eBrake cable bracket from the caliper by removing the Torx bolt. Now remove the two caliper bolts and hang the caliper up using an old wire coat hangar or even a piece of strong rope. Finally loosen the cable adjustment lever all the way and separate the eBrake cable from the L and R brake cables by slipping the end out of the connector. Now with water hoses, fuel line, CAI, harness, trans cables and throttle cable removed the cradle should be able to be removed with the exhaust attached.

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Don't remove cable bracket from the caliper.
Often you damage caliper by removing/installing the bolt or you can't get the bolt tight again and bracket moves using P-brake.

Take cable off/out of caliper bracket.
If have rust/dirt under ears, remove w/ small screw driver etc.
Then compress ears w/ close end wrench, small screw hose clamp, or whatever is handy. I used 1/2" copper tube fresh cut w/ pipe cutter w/o reaming the tube. (Cutter shrinks very end and you need that doing this.) Or tube squeeze down a bit or oval shape.

But very likely wheel cables are iffy to bad...
Pull on cable jacket and watch the ends. the crimp ends should be solid to the jacket so can't move.

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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-19-2021).]

842, the idea of tightening down the wire by twisting suggested another approach to me: zip tie. Place the tie as close to the end of the tangs as you can, leaving just enough space so the tangs will slip through the mounting hole before you have to snip the tie.

Radical idea - those cables are really rusty. Replace them. You can get all three from Rock Auto for less than $40.

I bought one of these. I had to modify it a bit to get it to fit into that space
but once done it worked great.
https://www.lislecorp.com/s...-brake-cable-remover

I'm sure some will not like my answer.
I normally break them off.
Get under them with a small flat screwdriver and bend them backwards until they snap.

if it's rusty, ain't gonna be easy no matter what you do, but IMO, the easiest way:

securely jack up rear end so you can crawl under and access where both side cables come together, the adjustment screw midway between the wheels under the engine/cradle
if you back out the adjustment, you can easily disconnect at the caliper without fighting the springs and arms


PB B'laster is your friend

Lisle makes a tool that slips over the cable and slides over the end of the sleeve to collapse the tabs and release the sleeve from the hole. The part number is 40750.

Some rust won't matter and most new wheel cables rust some and often fast.

Depending on where you live etc. Old to Vary Old cables can still be good.
"Up North" where gets a lot of road salt then cables often don't last 5 - 7 years and often need new cables to pass inspection for NY and some others.

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: I'm sure some will not like my answer. I normally break them off. Get under them with a small flat screwdriver and bend them backwards until they snap.

For replacing cables that works.
If going to use again then not good.

Those Ears hold enough so jacket end stay strait in the holes and stay there if/when cable core is loose or bad for whatever reason/problem.
If a core breaks and ears are gone then can make axle or brake problems... from a torn CV boot to a lot worse.

Is bad enough caliper cable bracket uses 1 bolt and bit of bent metal to keep the cable in place.
Often the bolt isn't tight or parts "rust" and bracket works loose some and causes cable and slider problems...

Bent side should be identical to the right tab but bent almost to clear the caliper.
Tried to remove the bolt to fix but nothing and high risk wrecking the Torx hole and/or head. (Can see some load damage on T45 or T47 head...)
Likely part of reasons why people have problems adjusting the cables.

quote Originally posted by pmbrunelle: I prefer to undo those cables at the brake calipers, leaving the cradle end attached.

yup. zip tie to the spring. that way all your brake fluid doesnt drip away too.