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Fiero Store Side Mouldings or Repaint? by saaron
Started on: 11-09-2021 07:50 PM
Replies: 17 (298 views)
Last post by: skywurz on 11-23-2021 04:34 PM
saaron
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Report this Post11-09-2021 07:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello all. I'm getting my 88GT (all original) repainted with factory red. Panel-off paint job.
I can have all the side moulding repainted (it is faded, but in good shape) or I can replace it all with Fiero Store offering.
Cost not being a factor. Anyone have an opinion on which way to go? Thanks! --steve
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skywurz
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Report this Post11-09-2021 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skywurzClick Here to visit skywurz's HomePageSend a Private Message to skywurzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Originals are not painted. Ive seen painted ones and they look awful especially once the get a door ding and chip.
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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post11-09-2021 09:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't know about the smooth trim, but on my ribbed trim Fieros, the sidemarkers were definately painted.

In some areas, the black wore through to the transparent plastic underneath, allowing light to leak from undesired spots.

I had to repaint the sidemarkers to solve that problem.

For the rear bumper you have no choice; you have to paint it.

If all the trim is painted using the same paint, at least everything will match. That said, black is usually pretty easy to match.
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saaron
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Report this Post11-10-2021 04:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good to know about the rear mouldings needing to be repainted. The quote I just received for a full paint job included that, so apparantly the shop was aware of that.

Just so folks on the forum can have a point of reference (which I know I would appreciate) the quote was for 60 hours of body work and 30 hours of paint work for a total of $5,580 in labor. Another $1,300 in supplies. Grand total of $6,980.

This number kinda shocked me, if i'm being honest. I was hoping for something more like $3K but I have no point of reference as I've never had a car repainted before. Anyway, just thought I'd share. Aslo, for more context, the car does not need any body work. It is in great shape other than the paint is super faded and clear coat has failed, so this is just a repaint.

Back to the side moulding question: If I have them paint the side mouldings, it will be another $300. I can buy the Fiero Store side moulding kit for $164. So cost is not really a factor in the side moulding decision.

I was hoping to hear from someone who had purchased the Fiero Store side mouldings and could comment on their quality/look vs repainted originals.
If you are out there and have an opinion, please share.

Thanks!
--steve
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Report this Post11-11-2021 04:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for InTheLeadSend a Private Message to InTheLeadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by skywurz:

Originals are not painted. Ive seen painted ones and they look awful especially once the get a door ding and chip.


Looks even worse when you have new moulding pieces mixed in with the old ones, that are not replaceable and part of the fascias. There's no reason not to scuff and repaint it all at the same time if you want it all to match. If you scuff the surface properly prime and use the propert adhesion promoter and paint with flex agent it will all look great and be very rugged.
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saaron
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Report this Post11-11-2021 08:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah. I guess since the rear bumper moulding strip has to be painted, and the cost difference is minimal, I am going to go with a repaint of all of it. Thanks for the guidance. I'll upload some before and after pictures when it is done.
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Report this Post11-11-2021 09:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTClick Here to Email IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Looks like I chimed in too late but I would have gone with the new molding from Fierostore. As mentioned before, that type of flexible plastic is a nightmare to prep correctly to actually get paint to stick. Most shops simply sand and paint which results in easy chipping.
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Report this Post11-11-2021 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for InTheLeadSend a Private Message to InTheLeadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://kleanstripauto.com/p...og-adhesion-promoter

Comes in aerosol as well I believe. Addresses the issues with chipping/not adhering properly. Have to make sure that the paint/clear also has a flex agent as well~
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Report this Post11-12-2021 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, side trim and most Fiero rocker panels aren't painted from GM.
Front/back trim under those faces is often same.

"Faded" plastic often not Faded but Oxidize Plastic that changes not only color but actual plastic surface too. OE Plastic maybe "water proof" etc but Oxide surface can hold road salt and other road crap and hard to clean by any methods.

I think the side trim and related parts is Polypropylene and that doesn't take most paints and primers to start with.
Often won't take many paints claim is made for most plastics.
PP is close to paint hater Teflon. Often most "glues" of any type won't work w/ PP for same reason. (LDPE and HDPE often hate most paints primers and adhesives too.)

"Normal" paints/primers may seem to stick but crack up, flake off or peel off the whole part.

Besides normal prep work, have to clean and not leave anything behind including cleaner. But Unlike painting metal... May take hours to days to dry off after final cleaning because "Small" scratches and Oxide plastic can hold crap or cleaners. May help if can put in sun light or hot box to warm up the part to 100-120°F. If outside, don't leave overnight so dew etc gets on the part before painting.

If you sand and clean the surface, PP and some other types can be "polish" by heated them. Very Careful use of a propane torch or heat gun can work. But if/when you overheat, you will ruin the part.

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Notorio
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Report this Post11-16-2021 05:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NotorioSend a Private Message to NotorioEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by saaron:
Just so folks on the forum can have a point of reference (which I know I would appreciate) the quote was for 60 hours of body work and 30 hours of paint work for a total of $5,580 in labor. Another $1,300 in supplies. Grand total of $6,980 ...


Gasp! You should definitely get two other quotes and carefully review the shops' feedback on line. It would also be nice to see an example of 'work in progress' so you can form an opinion of how the shop is maintained, the quality of the supplies being used, etc. Now it was back in 1978 that I worked in a body shop doing 'body work' and 'paint work' but I'll say that 60 hours of body work on a car that only has cracking clear coat seems extremely padded. Likewise on the paint work. If I had taken 60 hours on a panels-off job like that on a tiny little car like ours I would have been discretely disposed of in the nearest landfill ...
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saaron
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Report this Post11-16-2021 06:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have had several new cars repaired at this shop (LaMettry's in Lakeville, MN) and they have impressed me as well run and they have always done really good work. Also, for this job, the painter met me and looked over the car with me. It turns out he has done previous panels-off Fiero paint jobs, so I am pretty comfortable with the shop and the work they do. I'll know for sure by early December when it is done. I'll post before and after pics at that time.

As for the price, I was surprised by the $7,400 price tag for sure, so I shopped around. Most of the places I called would not take the job at all. The general feedback I got was "we don't do full repaints because they take too much time and they are very expensive." Apparently cranking out insurance repairs is where they want to spend their time. The few who were willing to do the job had prices between $10K and $15K.

Anyway, hopefully this is good reference information for folks who are considering a complete repaint in the future.
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Report this Post11-17-2021 03:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Cost - well one has to remember that this is a panel off paint job. Much more work removing and reinstalling them afterwards. Be far cheaper if it was just going for a general paint.

The problem with reusing the trim would be how brittle they are after all the years. If they are in great shape I would consider painting them this way to color will all match. I have seen several cars with the molding painted and the paint seems to hold up well. It all comes down to prep.

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saaron
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Report this Post11-17-2021 03:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was thinking the same thing. A ton of work to remove/prep/re-install all of the panels, plus all of the glass.

Good to hear that you have seen the moulding turn out well when painted. Mine is in really good shape, and when I spoke to the painter about the need for adhesion promoter and flex agent the response was basically (I'm paraphrasing). "Sir, I have painted this type of moulding a thousand times. I know it will turn out great. Also, we have a lifetime warranty on our work"

Honestly, at this point, my biggest concern is losing the VIN stickers on the areas that will be repainted (front bumper, rear bumper, and front fenders). I wish I could salvage them somehow.

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skywurz
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Report this Post11-17-2021 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skywurzClick Here to visit skywurz's HomePageSend a Private Message to skywurzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ive only done some minor research but i believe you may be able to order some repo vin stickers from places like this https://autodatalabels.com/
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saaron
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Report this Post11-18-2021 01:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That's great. It got me searching and I found what appears to be the *only* factory authorized company for replacement VIN decals.

http://www.ecsvin.com/index.php

I had reached out to a couple of others and they said the decal would be "close", but the fonts would not be the same.

But E.C.S. said it will be identical because they are licensed by GM and they have all their watermarks and what not.

The cost per sticker is $44.95 and $3.95 shipping. Cheaper than the others I called.

I've ordered one and will upload a picture when I get it.

[This message has been edited by saaron (edited 11-22-2021).]

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saaron
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Report this Post11-22-2021 05:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As promised. Here is a pictuer of the new VIN decal from E.C.S.

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saaron
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Report this Post11-22-2021 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for saaronSend a Private Message to saaronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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skywurz
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Report this Post11-23-2021 04:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skywurzClick Here to visit skywurz's HomePageSend a Private Message to skywurzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sweet those look amazing!!
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