I have been searching through the forums of this place on misfires for months, and no matter what I've done my car still misfires, it is an irratic misfire
The tach still bounces, I'm pretty sure it's when the missfires occur, not before, I've had the new icm tested and it passed
Did have low fuel pressure from older pump, replaced pump, to a OEM pump and reads 90 psi (aware that is a **** ton and I know it should be around 9-13) that's just the pump with the ignition on, no idea how to test it with car running
Tested with a 20 psi gauge first, that completely blew it out of the water and it broke, put a nicer gauge on it and that's how I got the 90 psi (・o・)
If you really are producing 90 psi with that pump, it's dangerous. Get another one.
Agreed. Trying to troubleshoot an engine issue while it's running 90 psi fuel pressure when it's supposed to be 9-13 psi is pointless... if not downright dangerous.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-05-2021).]
Agreed. Trying to troubleshoot an engine issue while it's running 90 psi fuel pressure when it's supposed to be 9-13 psi is pointless... if not downright dangerous.
I second that. I am not talking to you when you have 90 PSI on a 4 cylinder engine.
The year was 1998... i had a silver 2.5 with the isuzu 5 speed. I had the same symptoms.. I went to a junk-yeard... pulled the ecm from a buick (whatever it was) with a 2.5. Put it in and it ran flawlessly. It seems strange but true.. the buick was even an auto....
[This message has been edited by NY_FIERO (edited 10-14-2021).]
Replace fuel pump with proper one, then replace coolant temp sensor for the ECM (there are 3, usually the one in the thermostat housing), and rebuild/clean the TBI.
Completely eliminating/plugging the fuel return wouldn't result in a duke fuel pump creating 90 psi of pressure. Something's wacky, but I suspect it isn't the regulator.
So I've replaced the fuel pump, did that yesterday, car is running a little better, not as rich, but still shudders could it be the ecm? I've tested for codes and it doesn't give out 55 whose to say that's supposed to work though lol
What ecm options do I have? Is there any aftermarket ones or better coded ecms than the OEM? Or will I have to get a remanufactured one?
Also thinking about rebuilding the throttle body, a hose died in the tank and had tube gunk in the old sock, could that have messed with the tbi?
you have to set the base timing by adjusting the distributor when the aldl jumped. the ECM controls the timing advancement after that. REsetting the ECM won't do anything if the base timing wasn't set correctly in the first place.