Car's stuck at the gas station - I'm pretty sure it's the neutral safety switch (yes, it's an automatic) - which two wires do you jump to bypass?

First try moving the shift level to N, then a bit to D or R.
NS will allow to start in N but iffy levers/cables may need to play w/ the level to find N on the trans and NS switch.

two large wires there or just jump starter solenoid.

Note that starter solenoid draws 20-30 amps.
Thin jumpers can/will fry instantly.

Very likely is not NS switch but Ignition lock, switch or other problem on the steering column.
Iffy parts there can push/pull the switch enough to see Bulb Test activate but not far enough to start the car.
See my Cave, Steering

If it really is problems w/ NS Switch first check adjustment.
See my Cave, Neutral Safety Switch
NSS has several functions and maybe 1 or more circuits are dead.
ECM get input from it too and may trip "codes" if not working.

quote Originally posted by theogre: First try moving the shift level to N, then a bit to D or R. NS will allow to start in N but iffy levers/cables may need to play w/ the level to find N on the trans and NS switch. two large wires there or just jump starter solenoid. Note that starter solenoid draws 20-30 amps. Thin jumpers can/will fry instantly. Very likely is not NS switch but Ignition lock, switch or other problem on the steering column. Iffy parts there can push/pull the switch enough to see Bulb Test activate but not far enough to start the car. See my Cave, Steering If it really is problems w/ NS Switch first check adjustment. See my Cave, Neutral Safety Switch NSS has several functions and maybe 1 or more circuits are dead. ECM get input from it too and may trip "codes" if not working.

Your site is offline m8. Might wanna take a look.

quote Originally posted by theogre: First try moving the shift level to N, then a bit to D or R. NS will allow to start in N but iffy levers/cables may need to play w/ the level to find N on the trans and NS switch. two large wires there or just jump starter solenoid. Note that starter solenoid draws 20-30 amps. Thin jumpers can/will fry instantly. Very likely is not NS switch but Ignition lock, switch or other problem on the steering column. Iffy parts there can push/pull the switch enough to see Bulb Test activate but not far enough to start the car. See my Cave, Steering If it really is problems w/ NS Switch first check adjustment. See my Cave, Neutral Safety Switch NSS has several functions and maybe 1 or more circuits are dead. ECM get input from it too and may trip "codes" if not working.

He's right, it's offline.

I was going to jumper the starter solenoid, except my blind ass can't SEE IT. Which is weird, it's not small. I've been looking for 45 minutes before giving up and driving back to the house.

Sigh. I'll have to try again later, when I'm off work. I'm just praying they don't tow me.

NSS wires for start signal are yellow and purple.

Yellow wire is 12v into NSS, Purple is to solenoid.

Both sides are heavy gage.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: NSS wires for start signal are yellow and purple. Yellow wire is 12v into NSS, Purple is to solenoid. Both sides are heavy gage.

Weirdly, on mine, it looks like yellow and red. They're the two very heavy gauge wires on the NSS. Maybe the purple faded? IDK.

If you didn't say something to the owner etc then could be towed fast. More so if blocking anything.

Yes, Is only 2 big wires there...

take a volt meter or test light. black probe the NSS wires and start the car. May need a big needle to reach the "pin." Ground black probe.
Meter doesn't read or light is off on each wire then not NSS problem.
(or pierce the wire w/ smaller needle to get at copper. then rub grease/oil on the tiny hole to keep out water.)

Site is up here. Archive.org and/or Shorturl is rarely down but sometime either/both is slow and time out.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-20-2021).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: take a volt meter or test light. black probe the NSS wires and start the car. May need a big needle to reach the "pin." Ground black probe. Meter doesn't read or light is off on each wire then not NSS problem. (or pierce the wire w/ smaller needle to get at copper. then rub grease/oil on the tiny hole to keep out water.)

I'm not sure what you mean by "black probe the nss". Do you mean, using a multimeter, verify voltage at the NSS at each wire, while cranking?

quote Originally posted by ArthurPeale: I had someone suggest to me the ICM if the tach isn't moving. Since it's not cranking at all, this doesn't apply, is that accurate?

That suggestion makes as much sense in this situation as asking if you're out of gas. Sounds like something you might've been told on FB.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-20-2021).]

black back probe the NSS wires at connector without unplugging it.
Carefully use a big needle around/thru soft "rubber" on back side of the plug. (Make sure needle isn't plastic coated or otherwise so red probe don't hit metal.)
or
pierce the wires w/ smaller needle to get at copper. then rub grease/oil on the tiny hole left behind to keep out water.

in both case Ground black probe to measure volts on the wires.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: That suggestion makes as much sense in this situation as asking if you're out of gas. Sounds like something you might've been told on FB.

*snort* yep.

Well, I got it started. Had to cheat.

First, I tried to see if maybe the ignition switch was out of alignment. Took apart the column in the lot (which I didn't want to do, but....) and...not as far as I can tell.

Finally, I jacked it up and shorted the starter solenoid with a pair of pliers. Being under the car when it's cranking? Not so fun.

Now, she's in the driveway. Still won't turn over, but at least it's on home turf.

Also, sporting a shiny new error code 42.

It seems to have been the NSS connector.

I disconnected it. Green and fuzzy (which I knew when I disconnected it yesterday).

Scrubbed with a toothbrush and white vinegar. Scrubbed again with baking soda and water to neutralize the vinegar. Chased with the end of a paperclip.

Popped it back on and...started right up. Trunk popper is working, too. It looks like one of the wires for the trunk popper goes directly to the switch, but I might be wrong about that.

I'm not going to drive it anywhere other than a big circle for a bit, to make sure this is solved, but for the moment, I'm hoping that it is.

Pull Plug again and coat the metal w/ silicone or brake grease.
Both are plastic friendly.

"Water" got in causing this and now metal isn't even "tinned."

I don't remember how that plug is made.
Think the wire and "pin" are back loaded but can't remember what tool to release the "pin."
Maybe same/similar to See my Cave, Defect & Connection notes

If Weather Pack type need a tubular tool to release them.

With "pins" out, you can see the wires and grease the crimp area too.

going to rain next 2 days so can't look at one.

I can get a replacement harness from Rock Auto for about $40. Only thing I don't like is the colours for the wires are all grey.

Going to get some grease to seal this up.

Years back I had a similar problem when I was 65 miles from home at the AACA /Das Awksfecht auto event. Kept car in park, t urned the key to on position, crawled under there and used a screwdriver to momentarily cross the solenoid and starter terminals. She started right up and I headed for home. Turned out the starter solenoid was bad so at my home garage, I just replaced with a new starter motor/solenoid ass'y.

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"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Thought it was fixed-ish, guess not.

I went to start her last night...nada.

This time, unplugging and replugging the harness cleaned the pins enough to start her, but they were already green, again. Argh.

I suspect what I was seeing was corrosion bits that were already in the NSS, as opposed to new corrosion. I didn't remove the NSS to clean it, just the harness. I'll do that his weekend.