While trying to bleed my rear brakes I found that I wasn't getting any fluid out the drivers side. Turns out there is 0 brake pressure on that side & even with the bleeder removed no fluid came out via vacuum pump or pressing brake pedal. I already had planned on replacing brake hoses, so I thought I'd go ahead with that, assuming there was a blockage or collapse in the rubber line. I have not been able to brake the steel line loose from the rubber hose, however. I'm sure these are original. I soaked them in penetrant for a few days, but they still won't budge. Thought about using a torch to try applying some heat, but don't want to damage the fender liner or ebrake cable.
Anyone have any other thoughts on how to brake the steel line loose from the brake hose?
[This message has been edited by bkfly1 (edited 09-06-2021).]
Even when using a flare nut wrench, the brake fitting nuts getting rounded off during removal is very common on a 35 year old car. On frozen nuts we sometimes have to use a small 6" stillson wrench to get them off.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Some people recommend using small needle-nose Vise-Grips to squeeze the two jaws of the flare-nut wrench even tighter onto the hex, to hopefully prevent it from rounding off
I feel your pain however. Nothing scares me more than having to this job on my car. Good luck.
Yes, need flare nut wrench on nut side. Often Visegrips etc on Hose side to protect the bracket.
May need to heat the hose side metal. Heat metal over the nut only until nut will move. Don't need even close to "red hot." ⚠️ Warning: Heat will boil the fluid and spray out of the rubber.
If hard line is rusted... Do Not force the nut to turn. Forcing often will twist the line. If rust is not bad Use spray oil and wait for it to work. (Oil will run down and away from actual joint so shouldn't get into fluid.) Clean up oil before attaching new hose.
"Bleed" old fluid before attaching hose to caliper. Take caliper off and empty that too. See my Cave, Brake Service & Brake Fluid
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
you're likely to break the line, because the fitting is probably fused to it.
With a line wrench, or a mini vicegrip, break loose the fitting from the hose. Just a wee little bit. Enough so it turns in the hose.
Remove the clip, and then the bracket from the frame.
Spin off the hose. If it's tight, hold the fitting with one wrench (or, vice grip) and use a wrench on the hose.
Now, the issue is that you'll never be able to properly tighten the fitting to the new hose, and have it properly in the bracket.
You could remove the bracket and tighten the hose to the fitting (not the best solution)
Or...remove the seized fitting and put on a brand new fitting. You'll lose about 1/2" to 3/4" of line. This may or may not be enough length to fit the new hose - the tolerances are pretty tight.
Hopefully this isn't as clear as mud. I've just done this (twice, two different cars) so It's pretty fresh in my mind.
The one time I encountered this was on the right front hose on our '84. Scared me to do it, but I used my "crack pipe lighter" mini-torch (off the white tool truck with the red letters) to heat the female thread part of the connection. As ogre says, I didn't have to get anywhere near red hot to get it to break loose, but it did take maybe three applications of heat, with PB Blaster in between. Cleaned the line-end fitting with 3M "brillo pad" and put a tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads, still leak-free after 4 years... Shield the wheelwell liner with something flame-resistant to help prevent unintended adverse consequences. Keep us in the loop. - Chris
Oh, good news! I thought I'd try a little heat to see if that helped. I was going to break out my propane torch, but before I tried that I thought I'd try these little torches I got free at Menards some time ago. I mostly use them to light birthday candles & didn't think this would work, but sure enough, after heating the hose fitting with this little torch I was able to break the fitting loose! I attached a photo, but unfortunately, you can't see the flame. I shielded the plastic fender liner with a small piece of sheet metal that I had laying around. Nice thing about this little torch is the flame is very small so you can be precise with where you apply the heat.
Thanks for the inspiration folks. Now I'll be able to bring the Fiero to Fierorama this weekend!
Can just barely see the flame if you know where on larger screen for desktop/laptop PC. ⚠️ Warning: While these can work, be very careful because Not made to stay lit for long and can overheat the thing. Is only meant to light candles, cigars, etc.
Another option is smaller torch. Examples: "old" standard brass propane that can turn down the flame w/o killing the tip. small Refillable butane torch often sold in cooking sections for making Cream Brulee etc.
Many now get propane/"MAPP" w/ large tip sim to Bernzomatic TS4000 and TS8000. Or may have a "pencil tip" but can't adjust flame. Often pencil tips are made of SS thin wall tube that can warp etc if even has adjustable flame and set low. TS7000 & TS8000 doesn't like low flame because can overheat the tip... Manual PDF:
quote
ADDITIONAL WARNINGS• Make sure the torch is cool before installing or removing cylinder and accessories. Using the torch with a low flame can cause damage to the burn tube and ignition system.
Oh, good news! I thought I'd try a little heat to see if that helped. I was going to break out my propane torch, but before I tried that I thought I'd try these little torches I got free at Menards some time ago. I mostly use them to light birthday candles & didn't think this would work, but sure enough, after heating the hose fitting with this little torch I was able to break the fitting loose! I attached a photo, but unfortunately, you can't see the flame. I shielded the plastic fender liner with a small piece of sheet metal that I had laying around. Nice thing about this little torch is the flame is very small so you can be precise with where you apply the heat.
Thanks for the inspiration folks. Now I'll be able to bring the Fiero to Fierorama this weekend!
While trying to bleed my rear brakes I found that I wasn't getting any fluid out the drivers side. Turns out there is 0 brake pressure on that side & even with the bleeder removed no fluid came out via vacuum pump or pressing brake pedal. I already had planned on replacing brake hoses, so I thought I'd go ahead with that, assuming there was a blockage or collapse in the rubber line. I have not been able to brake the steel line loose from the rubber hose, however. I'm sure these are original. I soaked them in penetrant for a few days, but they still won't budge. Thought about using a torch to try applying some heat, but don't want to damage the fender liner or ebrake cable. 
