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Gen1 Headlight motor won't shutoff fix by 30+mpg
Started on: 04-30-2021 05:59 PM
Replies: 3 (64 views)
Last post by: cvxjet on 05-01-2021 01:59 PM
30+mpg
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Report this Post04-30-2021 05:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 30+mpgClick Here to Email 30+mpgSend a Private Message to 30+mpgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Motor wouldn't hit the internal cutoff switch when down & drained the battery.

Rebuilt the motor using Rodney's bumpers. Made sure the top grommet was in proper position.

Worked for a while then drained the battery.

Glued in new brushes & reassembled.

Worked for a while then drained the battery.

Disassembled relays, clean contacts & connections.

Worked for a while then drained the battery.

Fix: Will install a 20 amp on/off switch on the white wire from the headlight switch to the isolation relay.
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theogre
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Report this Post04-30-2021 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
While may stop draining the battery....
Likely 1 or both motors still have problems when doors are Open.
If true, the motor(s) can overheat and melt or cause a fire.

look for signs of "motor twitching" problem for open doors not just close doors.

The "twitch" happens when Thermal Breaker In the Motor resets, tries to power the motor and "blows" again because Limit Switches can't park and stay off for any reason including anyone "rebuilding" them and messed up in 1 to several ways. That if the Limit Switches even works at all.

When the Gen1 system is Good... The Limit Switches need the motor to bind some to stay off.
Too much or wrong lube on motor shaft and lube can release the bind at end of travel in seconds to minutes but even once a hour can drain the battery when car is parked.

HL motors don't need a lot of power to run up or down. But will easily pull 2 to many times the running amps when the motors are stalled at Full Up and Full Down.
Plus Auto Reset Breakers get weaker when you have the "twitches" and have a relatively short lifespan in any circuit cycling them repeatedly. AC PW and others in you car have this and most Never trip these even One time in entire life of a car.
For Fiero...
1 or 2 30A Metal Case units in the Fuse Box.
1 per PW & PL motors.
1 in HL switch in the dash.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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30+mpg
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Report this Post05-01-2021 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 30+mpgClick Here to Email 30+mpgSend a Private Message to 30+mpgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Motor is lubed but never trips the down breaker, needs about 3/8 of a turn more to hear the click.
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cvxjet
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Report this Post05-01-2021 01:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetClick Here to Email cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I installed a >Keyed Power< relay on the main power wire to the HL motors. No power when key is off. I also swapped to the 2nd gen motors because they are a much better design.

When I installed my relay, I put it under the hood. A better solution is to put it back by the battery junction block. You do need to get Keyed power to actuate it.
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