From a 2003 WRX. Good deal too $150 for all 4 with new tires on them....guy is more bing and just needs them gone. I know the center bore needs to be enlarged 1 mm to 57.1. Anything else I should know or do? Never put one brand on another before.
From a 2003 WRX. I know the center bore needs to be enlarged 1 mm to 57.1
Any idea what that will cost to have done?
It's great that a lot of Subies have the same bolt pattern as Fieros, and the offset required is similar as well. It's too bad the center bore is a different size.
With aftermarket wheels that use hub centric rings though, it's just a matter of using different rings to then be able to swap the wheels between cars. I now have aftermarket wheels on my '98 JDM Impreza STi that I used to run on my Fiero(s).
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-28-2021).]
You might be able to use a router and bit with a bearing on the end to router out your center hole if its an aluminum rim.
I highly doubt it would be possible to perfectly center a larger center bore hole using a router. Not something I'd want to attempt when its the center bore of the wheel that keeps it centered on the hub.
You might be able to use a router and bit with a bearing on the end to router out your center hole if its an aluminum rim.
Please don't do this. The hole needs to be concentric. It needs to be done on a lathe while the wheel is turning to ensure the bore is concentric to the OD. Alternatively, a manual or CNC boring mill can enlargen the hole, as long as the exact center of the wheel is located and dialed in prior to machining and the wheel is securely clamped.
Fly cutter on a Bridgeport. Easy peasy. I need to 3D print some center caps now. The hubs stuck out 1/4 inch. Rides great. I could have taken a little more out. They are tight but go on. Clearance Clarence.
[This message has been edited by Curlrup (edited 04-29-2021).]
These were silver. Previous owner plasti dipped them. I'm going to peel it and paint it...correctly. The dip is on for now, it works but if you get close it looks sloppy. No sir I don't like it.
I think these are going to be like the wheels on my Honda Fit I had many moons ago. EVERY time a wheel had to come off I had to beat it off with a BFH they were that tight. Those were factory wheels. So I guess a question is if they are tight now, I'm assuming aluminum wheels on steel hubs will have some galvanic corrosion going on being made worse from a tight fit?
I'm assuming aluminum wheels on steel hubs will have some galvanic corrosion going on...
With any wheels that fit snugly on the hub, I'll usually apply a little bit of antiseize where contact is made to allow for easier future removal of the wheels.
In other news. Just curious. It was only 1 mm to take out. Split across the diameter that's .5 mm a side or 19 thousandths of an inch. Not much. I would think you could DIY this to some extent and keep it concentric. If you were off it would be a very small amount, and possibly within tolerance. Or not. If you had to remove anymore material no way you could DIY this.
That's what I have on mine as well. I look forward to seeing your 3d printed solution. I played around with it a little but didn't really like what I made.
That's what I have on mine as well. I look forward to seeing your 3d printed solution. I played around with it a little but didn't really like what I made.
Sweet! Looks good. Did you use spacers or bore out the center? Spacers scare me.
I found a file that was modified form doublec4's file. It's too big but I'm just messing around with scale in my slicer to see if I can dial it in some. I like the file its simple and has a Fiero logo on it. Once I get it dialed in I'll share some pics.
