This morning, my car wouldnt start to get to work. It turned over just fine, but wouldnt start. I noticed the tachometer didnt move, which makes me think no spark. The thing is, this has happened before and how I fixed it was by jumping the car and it started right up. I think the voltage was at like 12.3 or something like that. Normally its around 13 volts.

The starter sounded exactly the same as it usually does when it starts right up.

[This message has been edited by Xenoblast (edited 04-10-2021).]

As long as there's enough voltage to turn over the engine reasonably fast enough, there should be enough voltage to provide the required spark. Over the years I've had practically dead batteries that barely turned over the engine (both 2.5 and 2.8), and the engines have started.

Does your engine start immediately when the battery's fully charged, or does it need to crank over several revolutions?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-10-2021).]

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Does your engine start immediately when the battery's fully charged, or does it need to crank over several revolutions

It takes a few rotations. I just thought its that way because the previous owner deleted the cold start injector. However now that I think about it, it still takes a few rotations even when warm.

I think one time at my friends house it took a good 10 seconds of cranking to start the engine. This morning I cranked it for probably 25 seconds and then just gave up and took another car.

[This message has been edited by Xenoblast (edited 04-10-2021).]

It's been my experience that a healthy happy engine will start within two seconds... and often as soon as the starter engages.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: It's been my experience that a healthy happy engine will start within two seconds... and often as soon as the starter engages.

It does usually start within 2 seconds if the battery is fully charged, I was just stating outlying cases when the battery isnt fully charged.

[This message has been edited by Xenoblast (edited 04-10-2021).]

quote Originally posted by Xenoblast: Replaced the ICM, problem fixed. I bet when it took 10 seconds to crank it was dying.

Happy ending...

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Might want to clean and tighten all the engine grounds just for hahas. A less than good ground will eat ignition modules. Glad you got it fixed quickly!!!

quote Originally posted by Tony Santucci: Might want to clean and tighten all the engine grounds just for hahas. A less than good ground will eat ignition modules. Glad you got it fixed quickly!!!

welp, another one broke. where are all of the ground straps?

quote Originally posted by Xenoblast: welp, another one broke.

ICM?

If so, was it an ACDelco unit?

Did you use proper heat sink compound (not grease) between the underside of the ICM and the base of the distributor?

Did you replace the pickup coil inside the distributor? (This is often recommended when the ICM is replaced.)

quote Originally posted by Patrick: ICM? If so, was it an ACDelco unit? Did you use proper heat sink compound (not grease) between the underside of the ICM and the base of the distributor? Did you replace the pickup coil inside the distributor? (This is often recommended when the ICM is replaced.)

I have no idea if it was acdelco, it was a spare from the previous owner. The one i just replaced it was acdelco. I used thermal paste, like the ones you would use for computer cpus on it last time. I did not replace the pickup coil.