Hi everyone!
I'm in the process of working on the gas tank for my '87GT, and want to know what you suggest for fuel lines. I could always just do the standard rubber lines, but I'd rather upgrade with something newer and that looks much better. A 2.8 will be going in at some point soon and then a L67. I'd like to use the lines/fittings for both engines. For the tank, it's getting a frest protective coat of paint, FS sending unit, and EP 381 fuel pump.

Thanks for the help!

Russell Stainless steel braided #6AN fuel lines will work with the adapters on each end. There is one connector that will clip right onto the fuel line while there are fittings that will fit the fuel filter. As for the tank to the fuel filter and the return std fuel injection line 3/8" and 5/16" will work and will last a long time.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 09-30-2020).]

Dennis, I'm pretty sure I get what you're saying. I think it's just the fittings that have me a little confused. I did see Jegs has a 2' completed Pro-Flo hose with fittings. Would that be what I need? Better yet, would anyone have pictures of tank/hose set up?

Thanks again!

"standard" "Rubber" is not rated "high pressure" to use in Most FI systems. made only to handle 0 to ~ 20 psi for carb's and some TBI w/ gravity feed or low pressure pumps. Or use for vent or return lines w/ little or no pressure.

Feed lines for V6 etc Must buy "rubber" lines for this job to safely handle ~ 50psi.

Little point buying SS lines unless you have money to waste.
New "rubber" meets SAE numbers for whatever line will last a very long time.
More important you right "rubber" in the tank or expect failure as short line often comes w/ new pumps hates ethanol.

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(Jurassic Park)

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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-30-2020).]

In the AN-form-factor stainless-braided hoses, rubber and PTFE (Teflon) is available.

I think that the PTFE is more recommended for fuel lines. Some rubber hoses can allow fuel vapour to permeate right through the hose, stinking up the garage.

I don't think you can expect to reuse all the fuel lines between both engine setups, but if you use reuseable hose ends, these can be removed from their original hoses and transferred to new hoses. The compression olive must still be replaced.

I just ordered Aeroquip PTFE hose + fittings last night from Summit for my turbo's oil line. The Aeroquip stuff is a bunch cheaper than Earl's.

In general you want to use as much hard line as possible, using flexible sections only where you really need it (such as to accommodate movement between the engine and body).

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 09-30-2020).]

quote Originally posted by pmbrunelle: Some rubber hoses can allow fuel vapour to permeate right through the hose, stinking up the garage.

Only for fools using wrong "rubber" and plastic hose for fuel hoses.

All new Fuel hoses should meet Current SAE J30xxx for whatever job... for many cars xxx =:
R6 R7 or R8 low pressure (Max Working 50 PSI)
R9 medium pressure (Max Working 100 PSI)
R10 in tank line (Max Working 100 PSI)
(Max Working PSI is up to 1/2in)
A Full Copy of J30 standard at https://law.resource.org/pu...005/sae.j30.1998.pdf
See also https://www.underhoodservic...l-hose-installation/

Even then Way older OE fuel hoses should not let gas out to "stinking up the garage" but Old fuel hoses can have similar wear out problems same as coolant and brake hoses.

Otherwise most fume problems are leaks somewhere in a car even if don't leak Liquid fuel or aka EVAP system failures even for many cars built in 70's. More so on all vehicles w/ Fuel Injection engine.
This is why many OBD2 cars set a code when EVAP self test fails for not tightening the gas cap after fill ups.
This is why some places still test EVAP on old cars. They test the cap and even fuel tank by pinching off tank vent line to EVAP canister.

That's If a gas smell is really from a car... Most have lawn mowers and more plus gas "cans" too and many of those have Vented or crap Caps, Iffy parts on equipment and gas cans, or worse problems in the same space.

When you buy hoses from the "Army/Navy DIY performance parts ecosystem", manufacturers don't make any claims as to meeting SAE J30 (any revision), so evaluating the suitability of these hoses for fuel is left to the end-user.

Some rubber won't be good with fuel, some could be OK, but it's not clear which ones.

With PTFE it's a pretty sure deal that you'll have satisfactory results.

The aftermarket AN ecosystem has its downsides, but the variety of fittings and ability to install reuseable hose ends without a crimping tool make it hard to avoid when you want to start rebuilding things in your garage, especially for a modified car.