Had some mechanical work done this week and my mechanic told me I needed a new calliper and ordered a new one... got me thinking.... is it leaking out of the bleeder screw.... do I really need a new calliper? And if so, can I change it out without bleeding the breaks? As you can tell, I am no mechanic, but man do I love my 2M6 Notchie. Any feedback is always appreciated.
You must bleed. Bleeding brakes is a simple one man task if you use Russell speed bleeders. Just replace the caliper bleed screws with the Russell speed bleeders by screwing them in until it stops (not too tight). Be careful not to cross thread or you will ruin the caliper. Then back off (loosen/open) about 1/2 turn. . Attach a clear plastic hose to the speed bleeder and put the end in a bottle. Starting with the right rear caliper pump the brake pedal about 7 or 8 times until you can see fluid flow out. Then tighten the bleeder and move on to the left rear, then right front and left front calipers checking that the master cylinder always has fluid in it after each wheel bleed. If done correctly this is a foolproof method.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-13-2020).]
Starting with the left rear caliper pump the brake pedal about 7 or 8 times until you can see fluid flow out. Then tighten the bleeder and move on to the left rear...
Typo.
Start with left rear (which yes, is the furthest from the master), then right rear, right front and left front.
Start with left rear (which yes, is the furthest from the master), then right rear, right front and left front.
I corrected my post to read start the bleed from the right rear. The brake lines to the right rear start at the master cylinder on the left side of the car, then run to the rear and cross over to the opposite (right ) side. I don't see how the left rear is farthest from the master cylinder. Am I missing something ? If so please explain.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I don't see how the left rear is farthest from the master cylinder. Am I missing something ?
Apparently!
Dennis, all this was explained to you in This thread. Why do you refuse to acknowledge that the Fiero's left rear caliper is the furthest from the master cylinder?
All the years you've worked on Fieros, and you've never observed the brake line routing to the back?
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
...the Left Rear brake caliper is the furthest along the brake line from the master cylinder.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-13-2020).]
Could replace the bleeder itself... Bleeder's tip is only part to seal them and can go bad and leak. Take bleeder to local parts stores and match w/ If Caliper have problems too... Could try bleeder repair kit, over size bleeders, etc but Better to replace the whole thing because likely have other problems.
If one caliper is replace, you only need to bleed both on same axle. Bleeder other axle "for fun" often makes more problems.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by Patrick: Dennis, all this was explained to you in This thread. Why do you refuse to acknowledge that the Fiero's left rear caliper is the furthest from the master cylinder? All the years you've worked on Fieros, and you've never observed the brake line routing to the back?
We have some contradicting info here. From the factory service manual.
I'll try to trace the brake lines later today but either the factory manual or your picture is incorrect.
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-14-2020).]
Do Not assume you bleed Farthest cal/slave from MC First on most cars. GM and others FSM Assumes the system is "Dry" after major work, replacing MC, etc. FSM plumbing drawing and bleed text Are Correct.
Their Bleed plan for Fiero is "faster" as tries to gets air out of Rear line at First SHORT Path then purges air from the rest of the axle set.
Fiero Front Brake bleeding likely doesn't matter much as both lines are on First T built into the Combi Valve and have longer lines to both wheels.
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If you replace 1 cal/slave then can Only bleed the axle pair for Most vehicles. Air will Never get to the other axle unless system have Huge problems. Even this is overkill for some pair sets... For Fiero: Replacing L rear cal or hose likely won't matter but do same R rear cal or hose might because that side has a Very Short line to the T. Fiero fronts have 2 lines from Combi Valve and replacing 1 cal is Very Unlikely to get air for other if you work quick and MC doesn't go dry.
Hard lines have basically a sump where bends under the frame at the wheel and this sump will block air getting in to replace cal or hose. Air can't get passed thu them but Fluid will flow out and worse if you open the MC tank.
Most times you replace both cals/slaves as a set. One bad then likely other is bad too and don't what to do the job again. + Same reason you replace worn out pads and rotors on same axle so both sides work the same and w/ same pressure.
Some Bleeder "Problem children..." Some Vehicles have "Cross feed" system and have RF LR as one set, LF RR as other set. I think old RWD Chevy Monza is one of these but many FWD Non-ABS has this too.
If a vehicle has ABS then you have a lot more issues/problems to bleed the whole system after major work or replacing MC because many ABS have very strict rules and equipment to get air out of ABS "box."
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-14-2020).]
But if only replacing one caliper, only need to bleed that caliper. Make sure master cylinder is full. Remove old caliper from bracket but have the replacement ready with bleeder open. I remove the bleeder screw completely. Install new caliper on bracket. Quickly swap hose over to new caliper with new washers. Wait for fluid to come out of the bleeder. Gravity will do the job. Tap on caliper to see if any little air bubbles come out. Install/close bleeder. Top off master cylinder as needed. Done. Usually goes quicker than it took to type this. Done this many times on many different vehicles.
